#541
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I don't know the ML's much at all. Only heard them a few times.
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#542
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You are not missing anything. But that should be discussed in its own thread.
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#543
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David.......I knew you could do it. Thank you on behalf of the forum members. We have all been extremely curious what you've been assembling.
Man I love the way those stacked MC2301s look on the custom Sound Anchor stands. That idea paid off in spades. What a fine idea. Pete's right, there's a long line of people who would part with their first born to have your system in their home, drapes and all. We know you will kick ass when you have the new home ready for occupancy and we look forward to that day but all of us thank you for letting us bask in the glow of your blue lights. That is a beautiful sound system.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A Last edited by jdandy; 05-05-2015 at 11:01 PM. |
#544
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David, how did you integrate time alignment of panels and drivers?
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#545
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Quote:
I have an amp for each speaker...does that answer by chance? |
#546
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I've been at this a lifetime and I have one MC402.
Lol |
#547
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Mike.......That beats the hell out of one of these. .
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#548
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Gasp. Dan...you are spot on!
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#549
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#550
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Every driver (or panel) creates an impulse wave when it moves air, which our ears hear as sound. When a speaker uses more than one driver, it uses a cross-over circuit to cause one driver to operate in one frequency range and the other driver in the other frequency range. The simplest cross-over is a resister that block a frequency range (for example, bass blockers in car audio that keep tweeters from dying trying to reproduce a full signal). Many speakers have very complex internal cross-overs. Assuming that the cross-overs are working perfectly (i.e., woofer handles low and tweeter handles high with no discernible overlap) one still has a time problem. Small drivers move short distances to create high notes. Bigger woofers have to move farther to create long notes. Thus, if a piece of music has high and low notes that are supposed to be simultaneous, the challenge for the speaker designer is to make that happen when the bigger driver is inherently slower than the smaller one. Designers use electrical delay in the cross-over circuit, or tilt back tweeters to take advantage of off-axis response, or rake speaker height, or some combination of all of these. When you have two different designs of speakers I would think it would be a bear to get them to play simultaneously enough to sound linear. The proof is, of course, how do they sound?
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