#11
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Best of luck with the whole situation! To me, having owned numerous subs (including Mirage, Rel, others...), a sub lasting this short of time before it breaks would be a definite warning shot across the bow...perhaps it is a fluke and once you replace the board all would be well for years to come but that board price you are being quoted is ridiculous; ironic for something probably made at a very small fraction of the cost outside the UK, Canada or the US.
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#12
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I'm sure a REL would be very satisfying. JLA includes a full suite of automatically calibrated filters for room tailoring, and a mic calibrated to your woofer's response to accomplish the mission. Even without a true crossover, I'm enjoying the alignment with my mains. The automatic filters of the JLA work as advertised, bass is tuneful, musical and deep. I'm satisfied.
Feature sets are quite different depending on which REL you compare to the JLAs. You can get a high pass output with certain series but no auto tune feature is available. I've no doubt I could be happy with a well chosen REL, and likely even your DB1, but as most have added, I'd be once bitten, twice shy about another or a repair at this cost after having the experience you described. The new REL's do look like a very good product to me. Truly as you say, a first world problem with luck better held in reserve for a greater conundrum. But, good luck! I think you're sussing it out and will be interested in the solution you pick. Personally and seriously, my pick would be a fight with B&W's distributor first. Last edited by Pampero; 03-01-2017 at 07:01 PM. |
#13
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Quote:
Thanks Pampero - my thinking is aligned to yours. I've been without a subwoofer for 4 months now and as much as it is disappointing, at least I have clear options. A new brand is very likely so therein begins a new journey - now I just have to rustle up some unexpected $'s! |
#14
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To put this in terms I understand $2900 AUS * 0.75= $2175 USD. WoW! That's a lot of coin, even for a full electronics package replacement.
I would ask about local board level repair. I'll bet a true electronics repair shop in your area could fix this for pennies on the dollar. Ask the dealer to get a schematic, parts list, and layout of the board from B&W. These boards get subject to huge amounts of vibration and stress and it is likely that something has just vibrated loose. If the above strategy doesn't work.... I would cut your losses and move to a product from a company that focuses on subwoofers**. You will probably have the same issue with a like for like board replacement - of course right after the warrant period expires. With all due respect to John Bowers et all, B&W are NOT electronics design and manufacturing experts. They are awesome speaker designers and builders - and there is a big difference! ** companies like JL Audio, HSU, REL, Velodyne have deep experience in powered subwoofers. Regards, Tom
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v Last edited by W9TR; 03-02-2017 at 12:10 PM. |
#15
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Thanks for the advice Tom - yes, your calcs are correct and it is hard to fathom! |
#16
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Well there has been some progress on my DB1 issue which I thought I would share...
After some back and forth discussions with the Australian distributor for B&W, I have been offered 2 alternatives 1. For AUS $1,490 the entire electronics section of the subwoofer, including all inputs/outputs, power supply and display etc will be replaced with a full 2 yr warranty offered (this is the same warranty as new) 2. For AUS $2,800 a brand new DB1 can be provided. From the position I was originally in (almost $3,000 to fix), I think this is a very good result and probably keeps me from moving to another brand at this stage given the additional cost involved ($6K + here for a new JBL F113v2). Interested in which option others would choose between the 2 alternatives above? |
#17
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Option 2 seems a safer bet, but you pay for it. Sorry you have that problem, fwiw, my B&W sub has been trouble-free for nearly 9 years, knock on wood.
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Sources: Vinyl: Clearaudio Innovation Wood turntable with 9" Universal tonearm, Da Vinci V2 cartridge, Stillpoints SS & Stillpoints clamp, McIntosh MVP 901, Apple Mac mini via Benchmark DAC 1, Aurender N100C via Schiit Yggdrasil Control: McIntosh C1100, Mcintosh MX151 Power: Mcintosh MC2301s (front), McIntosh MC501 (center), Mcintosh MC402 (rear) Speakers: Sonus Faber Amati Futura (front and back), SF Vox center Power/connections: PS Audio Power Port receptacles, RGPC 400 pro (2) WireWorld interconnects and speaker cable |
#18
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Would it be possible to contact a company in the US called Madisound I think in Wisconsin to see if one of their techs can read the board? They are very good at Maine high end crossover networks etc and have stellar parts. Wish you the best.
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#19
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Yes true, but I'm thinking things are far more likely to go wrong with the electronics rather than the cabinet or drivers which are about the only things not being replaced |
#20
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I vote for #1.
a.) Keeps your existing sub out of the landfill. b.) Same warranty as new at half the cost.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
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