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JL Audio Ahead of the Curve

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  #11  
Old 07-03-2018, 06:21 PM
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Kal Rubinson Kal Rubinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sircharles View Post
When i received word that the Amp was fixed via email..............
Wow. I wish they could fix mine by email.
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2018, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sircharles View Post
Btw... if you get to the point of shipping to JL audio and need a box with padding/foam i can send you the one i received from JL Audio. The shape of the amp plate is odd making it awkward to pack. JL Audio sent back the repaired amp in a box that protects the amp quite well.
sircharles.......I appreciate that offer. I will take you up on it should I need to send the amp to JL Audio, and of course pay the shipping to me and to return the box to you. I am hoping I won't need to ship the amp.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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  #13  
Old 07-03-2018, 06:41 PM
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Seems to be quite a few threads on JL Audio subwoofers having problems. For the money one pays of these, it seems "odd". Not feeling warm and fuzzy about my 2 f113 v2's. If Dan's subwoofer is a version 2, it can't be more than a couple of years old.
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Tim
Amplifiers: McIntosh 1.2 Kw
Preamp: Esoteric C03
Speakers: Salon2 with F113v2 x 2
Analog: VPI Avenger Reference with Ortofon A95 and Esoteric E03 phonostage
Digital: Silenzio and Esoteric K03-x and G02
Power Management: PS Audio P10 x 2, P5
Cables: WW PE7 SC & IC, Furutech Flux-50 Filters
Rack: HRS SXR Signature
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2018, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
sircharles.......I appreciate that offer. I will take you up on it should I need to send the amp to JL Audio, and of course pay the shipping to me and to return the box to you. I am hoping I won't need to ship the amp.
hopefully you will not need to. PM if you do.
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Melco N1ZH60/2 ---> Roon --> Bricasti M1 SE DAC W/Ethernet Network card ---> ASR Emitter II Exclusive Version Blue w/Battery PSU ---> Eggleston Andra III speakers rolling on Stillpoints Ultra 5's ---> Two JL Audio F113v2 Subs---> all tied together Via MIT MA-X RCA IC and MIT Matrix SHD120 Rev.2 Bi-Wire speaker cables----> Powered by PS Audio's DSP20.
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  #15  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:08 PM
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Dan you can remove the cap and check it with an ohm meter for a dead short or low resistance. If working properly the meter will show zero for an instant then steadily rise to an open reading. There is the possibility of this correct reading but the cap will break down when voltage is applied (by the circuit). I would be inclined to replace with a higher voltage cap as opposed to higher temp ratings.
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  #16  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:20 PM
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I forgot to mention the X or cross on top of the cap is a blow-off valve of sorts. If a cap overheats due to excess voltage or reversed polarity the X will open up to let off pressure avoiding an explosion. Check the caps, visually, for signs of deformation and heat. They could also be leaking.
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  #17  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:34 PM
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Tom.......Thank you for the tips. Fortunately I have had some experience trouble shooting electronics. The last item I repaired was two bad caps in a Samsung power supply on a friend's 23" monitor that would not turn on. One cap was bulging at the top and the second one was leaking at the bottom. Two new caps brought the monitor back to life.

The two caps in question for me do not show signs of bulging tops, overheating, or leaking, but JL Audio's tech told me they are paper caps that tend to dry out internally, thus lowering capacitance and raising resistance with no external signs of failure. We will find out. I have a new ESR meter arriving Friday that can test caps in or out of circuit, so this should be a big help in zeroing in on the errant caps. My new caps shipped today, so hopefully by Friday I will have an idea if my attempt to do it myself will prove successful.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A

Last edited by jdandy; 07-03-2018 at 09:36 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtroo View Post
Seems to be quite a few threads on JL Audio subwoofers having problems. For the money one pays of these, it seems "odd". Not feeling warm and fuzzy about my 2 f113 v2's. If Dan's subwoofer is a version 2, it can't be more than a couple of years old.
Tim.......My Fathom f113 is the V1 model. I bought it May 29, 2009. Nine years of good service, so I really can't complain. My issue is with the weight and the chore of packing and shipping the whole subwoofer to Miramar, FL. If I can repair the issue myself, that's my first choice. If I cannot repair the amp, then shipping just the amp section makes the most sense for me.

With the issues that have come to light with the V1 models, hopefully JL Audio has made the necessary corrections to internal parts that will improve the mean time between failures of their V2 models.
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Dan



STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A

Last edited by jdandy; 07-03-2018 at 10:27 PM.
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  #19  
Old 07-03-2018, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
Tim.......My Fathom f113 is the V1 model. I bought it May 29, 2009. Nine years of good service, so I really can't complain. My issue is with the weight and the chore of packing and shipping the whole subwoofer to Miramar, FL. If I can repair the issue myself, that's my first choice. If I cannot repair the amp, then shipping just the amp section makes the most sense for me.

With the issues that have come to light with the V1 models, hopefully JL Audio has made the necessary corrections to internal parts that will improve the mean time between failures of their V2 models.
I am now feeling somewhat warmer and fuzzier. Good luck. I lack your skill set vis a vis electronics, or fixing much of anything really.
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Tim
Amplifiers: McIntosh 1.2 Kw
Preamp: Esoteric C03
Speakers: Salon2 with F113v2 x 2
Analog: VPI Avenger Reference with Ortofon A95 and Esoteric E03 phonostage
Digital: Silenzio and Esoteric K03-x and G02
Power Management: PS Audio P10 x 2, P5
Cables: WW PE7 SC & IC, Furutech Flux-50 Filters
Rack: HRS SXR Signature

Last edited by jdandy; 07-03-2018 at 10:27 PM. Reason: correct typo in quote
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2018, 09:14 AM
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tdelahanty tdelahanty is online now
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Dan you have all the items necessary to build a capacitor in your Kitchen. Put a sheet of aluminum foil on each side of a sheet of waxed paper (keep the foil sheets from touching at the edges) and roll them up, there you have it. Electrolitic caps have some magic goop inside that augments capacitive action and over time the goop can dry up or leak out.
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