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  #11  
Old 12-01-2011, 02:08 AM
avsBuddy avsBuddy is offline
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What do they do? As long as there are no voltage surge, micro-processor can care less if it had power shut under it, it's a piece of metal really. Blackouts do more harm to vinyl table motor or CD spindle than they can to the solid state electronics.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2011, 03:05 AM
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jdandy jdandy is offline
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Originally Posted by avsBuddy View Post
So why are you guys saying P5 and P10 are not great values, I'm just wondering. I have a APC S15 power conditioner myself, which does regeneration and power backup. I haven't done blind comparison, like I did with my first power conditioner, Monster HTS. But APC did not harm sound, and I like the assurance that it protects my audio system.

As far as power backup, it is of least importance to me - really, you only need powerbackup for front projector where you don't want your bulb to stay hot in case of power outtage.

I agree though, that if PS Audio could've lowered the price by $500 by getting rid of screen, it would only be for good. Power Condtioners are set it and forget it types.
avsBuddy.......Just for your information, the APC AV S15 is a power conditioner and battery backup. It is not an AC regenerator.


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Originally Posted by avsBuddy View Post
What do they do? As long as there are no voltage surge, micro-processor can care less if it had power shut under it, it's a piece of metal really. Blackouts do more harm to vinyl table motor or CD spindle than they can to the solid state electronics.
Voltage sages and voltage spikes can play havoc with power supplies that provide regulated DC to microprocessors. It is not uncommon for a sage or peak in voltage to scramble an eprom's ability to read the embedded software code, and requires the component to be reset using a specific procedure that resets the microprocessor. By using a power conditioner with battery backup, or an AC regenerator with battery backup, the output voltages are controlled more accurately, and during power sages, brownouts, or complete loss of incoming AC these devices transfer to battery and inverters that create 120 volts AC from 12 or 24 volts DC batteries.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A

Last edited by jdandy; 12-01-2011 at 03:17 AM.
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:27 AM
BuffaloBill BuffaloBill is offline
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Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
avsBuddy.......

Voltage sages and voltage spikes can play havoc with power supplies that provide regulated DC to microprocessors. It is not uncommon for a sage or peak in voltage to scramble an eprom's ability to read the embedded software code, and requires the component to be reset using a specific procedure that resets the microprocessor. By using a power conditioner with battery backup, or an AC regenerator with battery backup, the output voltages are controlled more accurately, and during power sages, brownouts, or complete loss of incoming AC these devices transfer to battery and inverters that create 120 volts AC from 12 or 24 volts DC batteries.
Dan, how is the best way to test/measure the electrical output at a particular wall plug(s) to determine if you are getting correct and stable current delivery?
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:33 AM
Still-One Still-One is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsBuddy View Post
So why are you guys saying P5 and P10 are not great values, I'm just wondering. I have a APC S15 power conditioner myself, which does regeneration and power backup. I haven't done blind comparison, like I did with my first power conditioner, Monster HTS. But APC did not harm sound, and I like the assurance that it protects my audio system.

As far as power backup, it is of least importance to me - really, you only need powerbackup for front projector where you don't want your bulb to stay hot in case of power outtage.

I agree though, that if PS Audio could've lowered the price by $500 by getting rid of screen, it would only be for good. Power Condtioners are set it and forget it types.
You should have any music servers (my MS-300 and Olive 4HD) on battery back-up in case of power outages or significant brownouts.

I agree with you that the original PPP's sounded no better than the APC S15 on my sources/pre and I would have lost battery back-up capability it I had swapped.

Jim
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:42 AM
Still-One Still-One is offline
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avsBuddy.......Just for your information, the APC AV S15 is a power conditioner and battery backup. It is not an AC regenerator.



That is true Dan but it keeps the voltage in the 120 range by immediately switching to battery power if the voltage spikes or drops. I'm not sure how the regeneration is supposed to improve the sound, but comparing the two units on my sources and pre-amp, the PPP's added nothing and I was giving up battery back-up for the two servers.

Jim
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:46 AM
Still-One Still-One is offline
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Dan, how is the best way to test/measure the electrical output at a particular wall plug(s) to determine if you are getting correct and stable current delivery?
You can pick up something such as this Fluke unit on Amazon or at Home Depot/Lowes.

Jim
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2011, 01:15 PM
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jdandy jdandy is offline
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Dan, how is the best way to test/measure the electrical output at a particular wall plug(s) to determine if you are getting correct and stable current delivery?
Bill.......Did you mean stable voltage delivery, or current?

Jim's recommendation of a decent quality multimeter is good. I prefer Fluke meters, as I used them professionally for years without issue. I would suggest you purchase a meter that has the mini/maxi feature. This allows the meter to record the minimum voltage and maximum voltage over the period of time the meter is connected to the voltage source, and recall those measurements.

A typical multimeter will not measure current to a high enough level to be useful, but Fluke make several excellent amp meters. The one I use is capable of measuring up to 2000 amps and would not truly be suit for home type applications, but a smaller Fluke clamp on amp meter like their new model 322 will allow you to measure up to 400 amp loads, plus it measures AC/DC voltages and resistance. It does not have a mini/maxi feature, but does feature a digital hold function.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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