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  #51  
Old 08-07-2018, 08:21 AM
4music 4music is offline
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I returned everything to 8ohm. I prefer it like that. Better balance and a truer presentation. Thanks all for the answers.
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  #52  
Old 08-07-2018, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
So, why do you need 3dB more bass? Either the bass in your system/setup is in proper balance or not?
Hi Kal.....I didn't think I needed 3db more bass but when I made the change I preferred the sound from having just the 4ohm tap.
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Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113
Amps: PS Audio BHK Signature 300 Mono, McIntosh MC207 Pre-Amp PS Audio BHK Signature and Gold Note PH-10 Phono Stage/PSU-10 Power Supply
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  #53  
Old 08-07-2018, 03:40 PM
jbaudio68 jbaudio68 is offline
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Ok— turns out I just found another set of speaker wires so I’m going to try this with my 2301/PMC IB2 setup. Thanks!
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  #54  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:27 PM
clpetersen clpetersen is offline
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Default Bi-amp/Bi-wire

I don't currently own McIntosh, but if I switched from Bryston, a McIntosh integrated would be a strong contender.

This is an intriguing use of the autoformer outputs (bi-wire).

If I understand correctly, it is bit more like bi-amping, using the 8 ohm taps to drive the bass and the 4 ohm taps to drive the mids/tweeter.

Given the higher voltage output on the 8 ohm taps for equivalent power, this bi-wire scheme would deliver 66% of the total amplifier power to the bass and 33% to the mids/treble, creating the 3 dB bass enhancement. This simplification assumes that both speaker inputs present the same impedance to the amplifier.

is this correct?
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  #55  
Old 08-07-2018, 04:49 PM
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At a given voltage, a 4 ohm speaker draws twice the current of an 8 ohm speaker which means the total power is doubled. When a 4 ohm load is placed at the the 8 ohm taps, twice the power will be delivered as the same load connected at the 4 ohm taps at a given output level.

A doubling of power translates to 3 dB increase in loudness. The problem is the amplifier will only be able to double power up to a certain point before it begins to distort. In an a perfect world, a 100 watt amplifier into 8 ohms (before the onset of clipping) would become a 200 watt amplifier into 4 ohms but hardly any amplifier is capable of doing this.

McIntosh always says to use the proper taps for the maximum amount of distortion free power. (As in not clipping)

Last edited by 62caddy; 08-07-2018 at 07:26 PM.
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  #56  
Old 08-07-2018, 05:00 PM
Kal Rubinson Kal Rubinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophilehi View Post
Hi Kal.....I didn't think I needed 3db more bass but when I made the change I preferred the sound from having just the 4ohm tap.
Whatever floats your boat.
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  #57  
Old 08-07-2018, 09:23 PM
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Audiophilehi Audiophilehi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
Whatever floats your boat.
3db more bass floats my boat...
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Paul

Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113
Amps: PS Audio BHK Signature 300 Mono, McIntosh MC207 Pre-Amp PS Audio BHK Signature and Gold Note PH-10 Phono Stage/PSU-10 Power Supply
Turntable: VPI HR-X 12.7 TONEARM (2) and SDS, Stillpoints LPI
Tape Deck Otari 5050B II2
Music Server: Aurender N100H
Cartridges: Ortofon Cadenza Black, Lyra Helikon Mono Digital Source: Oppo UDP-205 DAC: Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE
SSP: Marantz AV8801 Cables: Wireworld Electra 7 (P) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7, Shunyata Delta NR (I) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 (S)
Wireworld Platinum Starlight 7 (USB)
AC Power Regeneration: PS Audio DirectStream P15 Power Plant and Shunyata Denali 6000s V2.
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  #58  
Old 08-07-2018, 10:43 PM
Kal Rubinson Kal Rubinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophilehi View Post
3db more bass floats my boat...
I have a control for that.
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