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Acoustical Treatments Because the room matters

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  #11  
Old 06-13-2016, 11:08 AM
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djwhog djwhog is offline
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Can I suggest when you fur out the walls in the basement go with 2x6 not 2x4s and then also add cross braces in between the studs and insulate well before you sheet rock.

Of course go over kill to on electrical boxes and separate 20amp breakers and at least 12x3 wiring. If you are going with anything like a 1.2k amp or may in the future add 220-240 as well I also ran conduit in the wall to the ceiling in case I ever go over head for a projector etc.


I did this and the noise and resonance is way reduced with the thicker wall and cross braces. Most folks do not all any cross braces and feel that only the drywall screws will hold the studs in place.

I found that they will vibrate and setup their own harmonics. Maybe the 2x6 Vs 2x4 is over kill Anyway I like the deeper wall with more and better insulation factor as well.

PS looks great so far and a fun project congrats
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  #12  
Old 03-14-2018, 12:55 PM
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Bringing this thread back to life.... Have made some major progress on my room.

Had to really reconsider dimensions and usability of the basement.
Decided on dedicating a corner of the basement for my listening room.
Finished dimensions will be 14'w x 20'L x 8.5' Tall.

At the point now where i need to start thinking about Treatments.
It is an absolute echo chamber now that I'm almost done with double 5/8" rocking the entire room. Need some advise on where to begin with treatments!

Thanks,
Erik
IMG_1562 by vego99, on Flickr

IMG_1561 by vego99, on Flickr
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  #13  
Old 07-11-2018, 01:08 PM
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Room is almost completed. Hoping ill have it all completed before the new speakers arrive!



[IMG]Room Front Wall by vego99, on Flickr[/IMG]

Room Back Wall by vego99, on Flickr
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  #14  
Old 07-11-2018, 04:28 PM
Rex Anderson Rex Anderson is offline
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Have your carpenter build some panels to hang on the walls. Use basic concepts of LEDE (live end dead end) and RFZ ((reflection free zone). Diffusion on the rear wall behind your head. Absorption on the front and side walls at the first reflection point. Don't get the room too dead. Depends on your speakers, the better the on and off axis response matches, the less you need to treat.

Using a frame makes it easier to fabric wrap and have nice square edges. You can then use the nice wood frame to attach your frame hanger/D hooks and just hang them on the wall with picture hangers.

Use Masonite for the backing, Guilford FR701 fabric.

Also, 2" is not great. 4" is much better. Best and most linear is 6" (but few rooms can handle losing a foot -6" panels on both sides of the room). Use a 1" x 4" for the 4" thick panel frame.

We paid an acoustician a lot of money to show us how to treat our rooms and make better panels.

If you use 2" of 701 on top of 2" of 703, you get two different densities and thus more linear absorption. 701 goes on the room side, 703 on the wall side. Don't put any glue on the 701 or 703.

701 is softer and fluffier and has a different frequency vs absorption curve than 703. For 6" panels (if your room can handle it), the bottom (or wall side layer) should be 2" of 705, a third density of material.

I have installed a lot of these panels in a lot of different rooms (control rooms, recording studios, mastering rooms, home theaters etc) and they work great and are much better than just 2" 703 or even 4" of just 703.

You can use Auralex to treat corners https://www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/

These work well too: http://www.soundseal.com/soundqualit...bsorbers.shtml

Last edited by Rex Anderson; 07-11-2018 at 04:52 PM.
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  #15  
Old 07-11-2018, 04:40 PM
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Audiophilehi Audiophilehi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
Have your carpenter build some panels to hang on the walls. Use basic concepts of LEDE (live end dead end) and RFZ ((reflection free zone). Diffusion on the rear wall behind your head. Absorption on the front and side walls at the first reflection point. Don't get the room too dead. Depends on your speakers, the better the on and off axis response matches, the less you need to treat.

Using a frame makes it easier to fabric wrap and have nice square edges. You can then use the nice wood frame to attach your frame hanger/D hooks and just hang them on the wall with picture hangers.

Use Masonite for the backing, Guilford FR701 fabric.

Also, 2" is not great. 4" is much better. Best and most linear is 6" (but few rooms can handle losing a foot -6" panels on both sides of the room). Use a 1" x 4" for the 4" thick panel frame.

We paid an acoustician a lot of money to show us how to treat our rooms and make better panels.

If you use 2" of 701 on top of 2" of 703, you get two different densities and thus more linear absorption. 701 goes on the room side, 703 on the wall side. Don't put any glue on the 701 or 703.

701 is softer and fluffier and has a different frequency vs absorption curve than 703. For 6" panels (if your room can handle it), the bottom (or wall side layer) should be 2" of 705, a third density of material.

I have installed a lot of these panels in a lot of different rooms (control rooms, recording studios, mastering rooms, home theaters etc) and they work great and are much better than just 2" 703 or even 4" of just 703.

You can use Auralex to treat corners https://www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/
Wow....lots of good info. :

Thanks Rex!
__________________
Paul

Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113
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  #16  
Old 07-11-2018, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
Have your carpenter build some panels to hang on the walls. Use basic concepts of LEDE (live end dead end) and RFZ ((reflection free zone). Diffusion on the rear wall behind your head. Absorption on the front and side walls at the first reflection point. Don't get the room too dead. Depends on your speakers, the better the on and off axis response matches, the less you need to treat.

Using a frame makes it easier to fabric wrap and have nice square edges. You can then use the nice wood frame to attach your frame hanger/D hooks and just hang them on the wall with picture hangers.

Use Masonite for the backing, Guilford FR701 fabric.

Also, 2" is not great. 4" is much better. Best and most linear is 6" (but few rooms can handle losing a foot -6" panels on both sides of the room). Use a 1" x 4" for the 4" thick panel frame.

We paid an acoustician a lot of money to show us how to treat our rooms and make better panels.

If you use 2" of 701 on top of 2" of 703, you get two different densities and thus more linear absorption. 701 goes on the room side, 703 on the wall side. Don't put any glue on the 701 or 703.

701 is softer and fluffier and has a different frequency vs absorption curve than 703. For 6" panels (if your room can handle it), the bottom (or wall side layer) should be 2" of 705, a third density of material.

I have installed a lot of these panels in a lot of different rooms (control rooms, recording studios, mastering rooms, home theaters etc) and they work great and are much better than just 2" 703 or even 4" of just 703.

You can use Auralex to treat corners https://www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/
Rex,
I do plan on making panels, thanks for the tips, i never though of mixing the densities and it does make sense.

Will be holding off on the construction of them until the speaker arrive and get a baseline of what i am working with.

I have a pair of Jubilees on order and according to some of the owners room treatment is slightly different due to the large format horn on the top of the base bins. Well see what happens!
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2018, 11:48 AM
Mille162 Mille162 is offline
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A thought was triggered when you mentioned splitting your room and having a music library (as I mentally plan out my next listening room): if instead of building a back wall you used a LP rack (lets say the ikea kallax design) across the wall with a small doorway to walk in the middle), would the varying surfaces (LP’s stacked, wood frame, various openings on shelves) act as a good rear wall surface? Im just thinking that instead of a U-shaped rack across the back and rear side walls might be cooler looking if it was a small walk-in library, which could also help with sound treatment at the same time
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  #18  
Old 10-09-2018, 04:58 PM
MichaelZ MichaelZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
Have your carpenter build some panels to hang on the walls. Use basic concepts of LEDE (live end dead end) and RFZ ((reflection free zone). Diffusion on the rear wall behind your head. Absorption on the front and side walls at the first reflection point. Don't get the room too dead. Depends on your speakers, the better the on and off axis response matches, the less you need to treat.

Using a frame makes it easier to fabric wrap and have nice square edges. You can then use the nice wood frame to attach your frame hanger/D hooks and just hang them on the wall with picture hangers.

Use Masonite for the backing, Guilford FR701 fabric.

Also, 2" is not great. 4" is much better. Best and most linear is 6" (but few rooms can handle losing a foot -6" panels on both sides of the room). Use a 1" x 4" for the 4" thick panel frame.

We paid an acoustician a lot of money to show us how to treat our rooms and make better panels.

If you use 2" of 701 on top of 2" of 703, you get two different densities and thus more linear absorption. 701 goes on the room side, 703 on the wall side. Don't put any glue on the 701 or 703.

701 is softer and fluffier and has a different frequency vs absorption curve than 703. For 6" panels (if your room can handle it), the bottom (or wall side layer) should be 2" of 705, a third density of material.

I have installed a lot of these panels in a lot of different rooms (control rooms, recording studios, mastering rooms, home theaters etc) and they work great and are much better than just 2" 703 or even 4" of just 703.

You can use Auralex to treat corners https://www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/

These work well too: http://www.soundseal.com/soundqualit...bsorbers.shtml
Hey Rex, do you need to do anything to make sure the insulation stays in place, or does the fabric covering do a good enough job?
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