My home-made signal grounding system

[clpetersen]

Originally Posted by damacman

......
To that I suggest if your preamp provides a path for a micro-signal present at a non-selected unused input to reach the signal path of the selected input, you may need a better preamp. It's one thing to have a tuner on and hear a little crosstalk when using the phono input (very high gain) at high volume settings but to suggest that residual noise measured in microvolts at a non-selected input could somehow pollute the signal from the selected source is a stretch.

I'm no fun. I know.

For even more fun, we can talk about ground loops.

https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_ar...p?article=2107

[damacman]

Originally Posted by clpetersen

For even more fun, we can talk about ground loops.

https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_ar...p?article=2107

Which can easily be introduced into the system by mucking about not fully understanding the potential outcome of a "tweak" - seems like J-10 lost his gig recommending a tweak, not considering the potential outcome should it be implemented incorrectly.

[For The Love of Music]

Originally Posted by SCAudiophile

I have been testing Signal Grounding as well over past 1.5 weeks as a separate improvement over and above all the chassis grounding I have used for almost 13 years.

Signal grounding performance/audible benefit has been a big surprise and a big performance uptick!

More testing and listening next week!

Signal grounding is, and best used first on open digital outs followed by analog outs.

The pre is the heart.

[bugeyed]

Haven't you created an antenna for RF on the signal ground? Seems like a shielded ground interconnect between components would work better. Maybe I don't understand the function of the floating termination of the long wires.
Kev

[For The Love of Music]

Grounding passively the signal using open digital ports where I could then analog ports benefited the sound greatly - using the bolt Stephen shows is an option but I’ve also seen DIY guys build them out of Copper blocks to support a whole system. I use the Nordost QKore 6.

I don’t chassis ground as my system is fully balanced. I did try using the optional grounding cable on a tone arm cable to the turn table (rhymes in there somewhere) and the other end to the phono and it became too much a good thing, meaning the sound quality flattened out becoming dynamically poor.

There is no interconnects reaching the preamp (system heart) stemming from non signal grounded sources.

There’s electrical grounding addressed in the sub panel to earth more passive grounding using cold water pipes for network switches.

This all adds up to obtain a low noise floor, blackness, and a crazy good sound.

Unrelated but often confused is electrical noise. I have the slightest of electrical hum because under cabinet lighting that uses Kichler T5 bulbs on a Control4 lighting switches. Separate panel, phase and area, but still makes it through - turn lights off, no noise. Solution spend $1300 in new lights - no thanks!

[Puma Cat]

Originally Posted by For The Love of Music

Grounding passively the signal using open digital ports where I could then analog ports benefited the sound greatly - using the bolt Stephen shows is an option but I’ve also seen DIY guys build them out of Copper blocks to support a whole system. I use the Nordost QKore 6.

I don’t chassis ground as my system is fully balanced. I did try using the optional grounding cable on a tone arm cable to the turn table (rhymes in there somewhere) and the other end to the phono and it became too much a good thing, meaning the sound quality flattened out becoming dynamically poor.

There is no interconnects reaching the preamp (system heart) stemming from non signal grounded sources.

There’s electrical grounding addressed in the sub panel to earth more passive grounding using cold water pipes for network switches.

This all adds up to obtain a low noise floor, blackness, and a crazy good sound.

Unrelated but often confused is electrical noise. I have the slightest of electrical hum because under cabinet lighting that uses Kichler T5 bulbs on a Control4 lighting switches. Separate panel, phase and area, but still makes it through - turn lights off, no noise. Solution spend $1300 in new lights - no thanks!

Yep, you could use a copper or alumunim bar, for sure. But the bolt is just easier for connecting only 3 wires. It cost $2.79 for two of them. You just run the wire through the split, and tighten up the nut. The bolt is just hanging in air through a cable routing hole in the rack.

Grounding and the interaction of grounding "elements" in a system can be complex with different components and interactions between them (as well the house or room, etc). I certainly don't understand all of its ramifications, but....I can design and execute experiments. It can very much a be YMMV situation, so you try various experimental approaches and see what works. In my case, it worked, and cost me all of...six bucks.

Job done.