#21
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Hmmmm, I'm intrigued.
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Primary sources: VPI TNT III/SDS turntable, SME-V arm; Bryston BDP-3 digital player; Bryston BDA-3 DAC; McIntosh MVP-881 disc player; McIntosh MR-80 tuner. Preamplifier Audio Research Ref 5SE; Audio Research Ref Phono 2SE; Moon 430 HA. Amplifiers Conrad Johnson Premier 1B; Audio Research D-300; Bryston 4B. Speakers Infinity IRS Beta. Recorders Tandberg TD20A; Crown SX-822; Nakamichi 670ZX; Alesis Masterlink ML-9600. Power Tice Power Block/Titan (x2); McIntosh MPC1500; API Ultra II-20; multiple 20A derated dedicated lines. |
#22
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Nah, I won't let you hanging
Though I will issue a separate thread when ready. Basically, I want to try out high end SATA HD cable from JCAT for the hard drive connection to the motherboard of the BDP-3. As both the data and power connectors are bunched up togheter, I had to source a specialty cable to separated data from power. As I was a hardcore PC gamers in my younger years and the fact that the BDP-3 is essentially a computer, I knew I could mod something to make it work. I contacted Josh at modmymods in Rochester NY and he kindly agreed to make one to my specifications, as you can see in the picture. the JCAT SATA HD cable is 300 euros for 16 inches. I got it at discount as I purchased it from someone in Austria from their local online marketplace. I was too curious not to try it out. How much can it affect the sound, good or bad, if any. Having had the JCAT Signature USB, it was a terrific USB cable, among the best I've heard. So, if they can replicate this experience with a HD cable, who knows!
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Serge |
#23
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I'm really interested in hearing about your results!
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Primary sources: VPI TNT III/SDS turntable, SME-V arm; Bryston BDP-3 digital player; Bryston BDA-3 DAC; McIntosh MVP-881 disc player; McIntosh MR-80 tuner. Preamplifier Audio Research Ref 5SE; Audio Research Ref Phono 2SE; Moon 430 HA. Amplifiers Conrad Johnson Premier 1B; Audio Research D-300; Bryston 4B. Speakers Infinity IRS Beta. Recorders Tandberg TD20A; Crown SX-822; Nakamichi 670ZX; Alesis Masterlink ML-9600. Power Tice Power Block/Titan (x2); McIntosh MPC1500; API Ultra II-20; multiple 20A derated dedicated lines. |
#24
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Guess we will have to wait...
Yesterday was very snowy and the moment was pristine to listening music. Powered up the BDP, same error message. Change fuse again. I installed a slo blo this time, brand new Bussmann GMC. All is fine. Since I had the cover removed because of this, I decided to unplug everything to reinstall the cover without the screws. Plugged the unit again, press power, same error message. Hughh. Change fuse again, install top cover without screws, listen to music all evening. All is fine. Then I decided to turn off the unit to see if the next day (today) would grant me with the same error message. Turn on the unit, same error message. Well, I think I had enough. There is something suspicious at play here. This should not blow fuses on start up. My BDA-3 shares the same outlet and is trouble free. At this point I think I will send it to Bryston for review. It is still under warranty. But I will also consider upgrading while at it. I am annoyed with the lack of software support and updates. EDIT : It was suggested that I try a power conditionner but I have none as of yet. However I have a spare Shunyata Venom V14 NR that I could use to power the BDP. Right now I am using a Kimber Kable Ascent PK14. I know from the videos of Stephen (pumacat) that once you plug the NR, the whole circuit gets noise reduction. At this point I am suspecting my electricity, especially since this is a new house/new build and that I do not have yet some dedicated circuits. Especially in winter, there might be some fluctuations with high demands. I also noticed that before I could let the BDP on all the time and just use it anytime on the go and it was working right away. Now it gets disconnected overnight and I am left with blown fuses. There might be some spikes that I not aware of but the BDP may be very sensitive. Another key aspect is that I do not use the super time lag fuse as the original one. They are currently on the way from Mouser so that alone may solve all my issues. So I will try to pin point the problem by eliminating all the possibilities before concluding anything. 1- Swap the power cable for a Shunyata Venom V14 NR 2- Disconnect the ethernet cable and use the BDP with the front panel buttons 3- Power off the unit before going to bed, and try to restart the next morning. Rince, wash, repeat. 4- Cross fingers
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Serge Last edited by Parabellum; 01-14-2024 at 07:29 PM. |
#25
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Good luck, they are going out of business. They didn't answer my emails, PMs, or website form.
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dual 77" LG OLED C9, Bryston SP3, MC601s, XR100s, quad f113s, Aurender N100h, Atlona HDMI Splitter, Sound Anchor stands, WW Cables, Stillpoints |
#26
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Quote:
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Primary sources: VPI TNT III/SDS turntable, SME-V arm; Bryston BDP-3 digital player; Bryston BDA-3 DAC; McIntosh MVP-881 disc player; McIntosh MR-80 tuner. Preamplifier Audio Research Ref 5SE; Audio Research Ref Phono 2SE; Moon 430 HA. Amplifiers Conrad Johnson Premier 1B; Audio Research D-300; Bryston 4B. Speakers Infinity IRS Beta. Recorders Tandberg TD20A; Crown SX-822; Nakamichi 670ZX; Alesis Masterlink ML-9600. Power Tice Power Block/Titan (x2); McIntosh MPC1500; API Ultra II-20; multiple 20A derated dedicated lines. |
#27
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No, I don't think Bryston is going out of business.
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Primary sources: VPI TNT III/SDS turntable, SME-V arm; Bryston BDP-3 digital player; Bryston BDA-3 DAC; McIntosh MVP-881 disc player; McIntosh MR-80 tuner. Preamplifier Audio Research Ref 5SE; Audio Research Ref Phono 2SE; Moon 430 HA. Amplifiers Conrad Johnson Premier 1B; Audio Research D-300; Bryston 4B. Speakers Infinity IRS Beta. Recorders Tandberg TD20A; Crown SX-822; Nakamichi 670ZX; Alesis Masterlink ML-9600. Power Tice Power Block/Titan (x2); McIntosh MPC1500; API Ultra II-20; multiple 20A derated dedicated lines. |
#28
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Quote:
About the fuses, I noticed that the fast blo ones have their wires totally melted and broken. The slo blo ones are a little burned out but their wires are not fully broken. My guess is that when the unit is powered up, there is an inrush of current that may blow more sensitive fuses like the ones I installed. The super lag timed may be more tolerant on this. So far so good with the V14 NR. I boot and powered it down like 4 times a day and no electrical issue so far. The unit loose connection after a while with no activity. I wasn't like that before, I could let it on may weeks and it was turning on a dime when called for. That's why I think the RAM could be an issue. I will ask run MemTest86 torture test and see how it goes.
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Serge |
#29
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Quote:
As for the support (or lack of), this is why I started this thread. I contacted them initially, never heard them back. This was mid-22. I gave up and fixed the unit myself. The firmware updates stopped abruptly on Oct. 22. No updates since then. No word on updated UI either...
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Serge |
#30
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All right, I think I nailed the problem.
Long story short, use the original fuse to avoid problems I received my Schutler fuses from Mouser on last Tuesday (now Friday) and I installed it the same day. So far, no more problems. Basically, this type of fuse has a filament that is spring shaped, which is designed to take in rush of current, whereas the straight filament ones are not. They can take it, until they cannot. I blew 3 slo blo fuses (Bussmann GMC) until I came to understand what was happening. I noticed that the fuse blew only when I pushed the power button. I was having a chat with our electrician at work and he told me "yeah Serge, that's for sure, your fuse is designed for that specific purpose" confirming me what I was thinking. I am no electronic guy so I had to figure this out by myself. Picture on the left is the original one that blew. And second picture is the one I ordered. They are identical. I am quite 100% that's the exact model no. I hope this thread may be useful to anyone who experienced the same thing. So, I hope all this is behind me now. Time to relax and just enjoy..
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Serge |
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