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JL Audio Ahead of the Curve

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  #31  
Old 04-05-2019, 06:53 AM
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You should probably run the DARO again
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  #32  
Old 06-03-2019, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crwilli View Post
You should probably run the DARO again


So I finally got to running the ARO which required me to move The elf knobs to zero. Wow! Really good stuff! Thanks so much for your input.
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  #33  
Old 08-12-2019, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crwilli View Post
You should probably run the DARO again
Why? Changing setting to L+R only results in a change in signal level.
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  #34  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:09 AM
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The ARO had me adjust the ELF knob to zero in order to run. I did not realize I had adjusted ELF and so was missing some bass. Otherwise, the change in signal level has been welcome and I can adjust bass via the sats/sub knob on my cr-1.
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  #35  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:35 AM
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Because it’s really easy.
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Main room - Sonus Faber Stradivari, JL Audio F113v2 & CR-1 Crossover, McIntosh MC2301 Amplifiers with Stillpoint Ultra SS feet, McIntosh C1100 on Stillpoint Minis, Esoteric K-03X on Stillpoint Minis, Cybershaft Ultimate 2 OP17 on Stillpoint Minis, SilenZio v.2 Audio by -E- Media Server (running ROON), GigaFoil v4, Keces P3 with Ghent PC, 9 M Supra Cat 8+ and 0.65 M Revelation audio ethernet cables.

Other - 2 Stillpoint Apertures, GIK Bass Traps, Vicoustics Waveguide panels, Shunyata Alpha Clock 75 1.5 meter BNC, Shunyata Alpha 1.5 meter USB, WW Gold Eclipse 7 SCs, WW Silver Electra 7 PCs, WW Silver Eclipse ICs; 3 X 20 Amp Power lines, PS Audio P10 & Dectet, 3 Sound Anchor stands, Powerports and numerous Noise Harvesters. Furutech Flex 50, Cable risers, HRS dampeners

TV Room Audio - Panasonic TC-P60GT50, McIntosh MX-121, MC7106, Revel F52 & C32, B&W LM1, Sonos Connect\W4S Remedy\iFI 9V Power, WW & Kimber cables, PS Audio Dectet
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  #36  
Old 08-14-2019, 10:58 PM
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Default JL Audio Fathom f113 Question

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Originally Posted by Audiophilehi View Post
I have 1 JL Audio Fathom f113 that I currently have one cable going from the amplifier output to the f113 mono input.



Would it be better or more importantly can you use 2 cables L/R output from the amplifier to got to the L/R inputs of the f113?



Thanks

This article below from JL Audio says that there no such a thing as stereo bass. One cable connection (mono) is all you need. The article is from March of this year and goes into lots of details about how to properly set up subwoofers. Beware that several of the points made contradict long held thoughts in the audiophile community (including the stereo bass).

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...&source=search

Last edited by nicoff; 08-14-2019 at 11:25 PM.
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  #37  
Old 08-14-2019, 11:47 PM
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I especially like the following from the article:

“Simply connecting a subwoofer to existing main speaker (or amp) terminals is the worst possible way to do this. Everything scientific and acoustic about this method is wrong, from the additive delay issues, to the back EMF of the main speakers affecting the low frequency signal. “
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  #38  
Old 08-15-2019, 09:22 AM
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Default JL Audio Fathom f113 Question

Barry is no doubt very knowledgeable but these recommendations/opinions are based on his experience and knowledge of the JL Audio Subs. It seems a little over arching for him to so thoroughly diss the REL subs which I THINK are connected to the speaker terminals(???)
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Main room - Sonus Faber Stradivari, JL Audio F113v2 & CR-1 Crossover, McIntosh MC2301 Amplifiers with Stillpoint Ultra SS feet, McIntosh C1100 on Stillpoint Minis, Esoteric K-03X on Stillpoint Minis, Cybershaft Ultimate 2 OP17 on Stillpoint Minis, SilenZio v.2 Audio by -E- Media Server (running ROON), GigaFoil v4, Keces P3 with Ghent PC, 9 M Supra Cat 8+ and 0.65 M Revelation audio ethernet cables.

Other - 2 Stillpoint Apertures, GIK Bass Traps, Vicoustics Waveguide panels, Shunyata Alpha Clock 75 1.5 meter BNC, Shunyata Alpha 1.5 meter USB, WW Gold Eclipse 7 SCs, WW Silver Electra 7 PCs, WW Silver Eclipse ICs; 3 X 20 Amp Power lines, PS Audio P10 & Dectet, 3 Sound Anchor stands, Powerports and numerous Noise Harvesters. Furutech Flex 50, Cable risers, HRS dampeners

TV Room Audio - Panasonic TC-P60GT50, McIntosh MX-121, MC7106, Revel F52 & C32, B&W LM1, Sonos Connect\W4S Remedy\iFI 9V Power, WW & Kimber cables, PS Audio Dectet
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  #39  
Old 08-15-2019, 09:39 AM
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I now drive my f113 from the speaker terminals from my PS Audio BHK 300 mono's to a Jensen Transformers SP-2SX - 2-Channel Speaker to Line Level Converter to the JL Audio f113.

The integration of the f113 with the PSA BHK 300's is much more seamless with the transformer.

https://www.jensen-transformers.com/product/sp-2sx/
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Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113
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  #40  
Old 08-15-2019, 11:23 AM
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Jensen makes great transformers and it makes sense to use them in this application.

Technically Barry is 100% correct and a myriad of REL owners are very happy with their setups, so go figure.

It just shows that “sounds great” and “technically correct” are not necessarily tightly related.

Barry also wants you to close off all of the ports in your speakers, essentially changing the design. I’m not doing that.
__________________
Main System:
Amati Futura Mains
Amati Homage VOX Center,
Proac Response 1sc Rears,
Three MC2301's for L,C,R
MC 602 for the rears
C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80
Nottingham Dais with Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation
SurfacePro 3, JRiver, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC

MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material.

Lake House:
Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3

OnDeck:
McIntosh MAC 4300v
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