#31
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Can anyone shed a bit more light on this. |
#32
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That graphite stain looks great!!
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#33
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If you do go bare, with copper cables, you'll need to clean them quite regularly, as they will oxidise quickly. Not so important with silver, as silver oxide conducts almost as well as pre silver, whereas copper oxide increase resistance quite a lot. Which also means if you re-terminate, or un-terminate a copper cable, it will often improve sound because you have cleaned it to some degree But for sure, a connector can't improve sound over the cable itself. If you can get a very good contact width and clamping action on whatever terminal you are connecting the cable to, I am not surprised it will sound better, as Antipop found. A lot of aftermarket style cable connectors (both banana and spade) use a center screw to bite down on the wire inside the connector sleeve. On a stranded wire cable, maybe only 20% of the wire is being clamped onto the sleeve. The rest is flapping around in there. Often arcing. Which is why you should use something like WBT sleeves crimped over the wire, then screw down on those. |
#34
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Great reply, thanks.
I'm going to check my terminals very closely tonight. |
#35
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#36
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I have to agree, graphite has always been my favorite. As luck would have it that was really the only color that my wife wanted with our decor.
__________________
Primary System: Ayre KX-5, Ayre VX-5, Ayre C-5XEmp, Ayre QB-9 DSD: Sonus Faber Olympica III: Audioquest Meteor: Yamaha RXV-1800, Oppo BDP-103, Paradigm center and rear surrounds, Paradigm Ultracube 12 sub, Audience ar6-TSD Office System: Luxman L-507uX, Esoteric K-05, Harbeth 30.1, Dual REL T5 subs, Nordost Tyr 2 cabling, Audience ar6-TSD |
#37
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You should do the test, it's very easy to do and compare which you prefer. For me, it was like there was a thick curtain in front of the speakers |
#38
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Still, it is a timely reminder how even small things can have a big impact. BTW, I should also have said by now how great AudioPhilio's graphite Cremonas look in that setting. His wife was right |
#39
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I know a lot of boaters use dielectric grease to keep wires from oxidizing at the connections. It works but can be messy.
__________________
PS Audio P10, dCS Bartok, McIntosh C1100, Legacy Wavelet, McIntosh 452, Legacy Aeris |
#40
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To be fair, these often include conductive material and are intended to go over the entire area, and then inserted. I used to use a product called Walker SST, which is a silver paste. Tricky to work with, because it was easy to create a short if not very careful with the application. Trouble with that product was that whatever oil (probably a vegetable oil) was used, the emulsifier was not stable, and the product broke down after a couple of years. But it was excellent. Particularly good on valve/tube pins. I now use Furutech Nano Liquid, which is priced like liquid gold. But I think all of these products are best used if you are leaving the system alone for a year or so. I'm constantly tweaking and changing things around, and it is easier just to clean things along the way. |
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