#31
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All four of my systems have a sub, or subs. 'nuff said!!
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Pete No. 35 Main System: VPI Prime Signature TT in Rosewood, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Stillpoints LP1 V2, McIntosh: MP100, MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12 on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, PS Audio Dectect, FuruTech Flux-50 NCF Inline Power Filter, Add-Powr Wizard EM Field AC Line conditioner; Stillpoint Ultra SS's under (3) McIntosh MC501 Amplifiers Florida Room/Art Studio System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna Master Bedroom System: McIntosh: MX120 Theater processor, MC206 6-channel amplifier; MR74 AM/FM Tuner, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, JVC HM-DH40000U D-Theater Digital VHS, Phase Technology PC80 Towers (now used as stands), (2) JBL 4401's, (1) JBL Studio 6IW speaker, (2) JBL Studio 6IC speakers, Sony XBR-49X900E UHD TV, Panamax 1000 Line Conditioner, (2) JL Audio E110 Subwoofers, Wireworld Solstice speaker cables, Wireworld Aurora Power cords, Wireworld Equinox and Solstice speaker cables and various other flavors of Wireworld and Audioquest cabling Office System: Marantz 150 Tuner, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect, Sennheiser HD800 Headphones, Sennheiser HDVA600 Headphone amp, Wireworld Silver Eclipse Balanced Interconnects, Wireworld Platinum Starlight USB Cable, Add-Powr EAU-2 AC Harmonic resonator High Resolution Source: HP Omen 17" Gaming Laptop |
#32
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Didn't he invent the printing press?
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2 Channel - Esoteric KO3, VPI Classic, C2300, MS300, MEN220, Bryston 7b SST, B&W 802D, JL F113 (2), MDA 1000, Olive 4HD, Sonos w/Remedy, WW Silver Eclipse ICs , Stillpoints Ultra mini, MR85 tuner, Aurender A10 server Headphone listening - Audeze LCD3 with Moon Audio Black Dragon Balanced cables, Sennheiser HD650, WW silver Eclipse Nano cable, Bryston BHA-1 amp HT - MX135, OPPO 103D, B&W CDM7, B&W center, Sony 65" LCD |
#33
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I think you are correct but there are exceptions. Large Wilsons like the Alexx or XLF are the exception. Wilson strongly recommends that these speakers be run full range (no HP) so that the Watch Controller does not affect in any way the signal going to the Alexx or XLF. I have tried it both ways and can say conclusively that LP only(no HP) works best. The crossover coloration is noticeable with the HP engaged and Wilson specifically emphasizes the significant effort they put into the HP filters. That's why big Wilsons do not have exaggerated 30-50 Hz bass. It would make integration with a Thor or Subsonic impossible without a HP crossover. Both of these speakers possess both front and rear ports so that bass can be further reduced to allow the sub to perfectly integrate with the speaker. Using the front port decreases bass output in most rooms. However for me I find that the rear port works best and with the Alexx pulled out significantly from the rear wall.
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#34
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Back when I had my Maggie 1.7's I ran two SVS subs. They blended so seamlessly that whenever friends and audio club members came over they couldn't believe I had two subs in action.
The thing about subs is that you have to take the time to dial them in and keep their output at a level where they don't say "Hey, look at me!" Once the Maggies left for a new home, and the big Canton's arrived, the subs are not being used. In my smallish room they're just not needed as the Canton's produce a prodigious amount of deep bass.
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McIntosh MA8000; McIntosh MC1502; Canton Vento Reference 1 DC; E.A.T. E-Flat; Soundsmith Paua Mk II; Technics SL 1210 MK5; Audio Technica AT-150 MLX; Tascam BR-20; Teac X1000R; Pioneer RT-707; Oppo UDP 205; Denon DCD A-100; HP All-In-One Touchscreen Server; JRiver MC 28; Woo Audio WA6; Shure SRH 1840; SVS SB 1000; Jolida 502BRC; Jolida JD9; VPI 16.5 RCM; Wireworld Oasis 8 Speaker Cables; Audoquest Columbia 72 DBS IC's; Panamax PM-5400 (source components only) |
#35
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Quote:
My most recent experience was with Martin Logan Summit X's and Descent i subs. I played around and played around and although I liked the added bottom end just was not happy with the results. Eventually moved on to the CLX and the newer 212 subs. First off with the CLX there is no overlapping with the bass which I think is significant on its own. Add to that the custom cross over that ML supplies and then the PBK kit for the sub all that makes a world of difference. I can't say enough how the PBK kit has improved the bass. When you really think of it without some type of correction to your room you are not going to have stellar results. The other couple of things that help is go with two subs instead of one that does make a difference and also get the phase set correctly. Setting the correct phase has always been a mystery to me but once I found a method that made sense to me and applied it boy does it work. Also good room treatments are a must for good bass. I was surprised at the rear wall how much that made a difference. Lastly is the volume to set the subs at. That I agree is a very time consuming task and as this progressed I moved the knob like a micrometer.
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ML CLX Art / Bricasti: M21SE & M28SE / Aurender W20SE / Nordost: O2 Full |
#36
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I will always prefer no sub for music, hence why I try to find a speaker that can reproduce a large frequency range.
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#37
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you have obviously never listened to a proper 2.1 set up , let alone a superb 2.2 set up...........
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#38
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Agree, if your speaker is designed right you shouldn't need a sub for music. But if you decide to go in that direction anyway then using an electronic crossover and a sub from the same manufacturer as the speaker can ensure proper phase between both the speaker and the sub and avoid potential bass frequency cancellation.
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#39
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Quote:
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#40
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The word "need" in these discussions always makes me laugh (at myself as well as the writer). We shouldn't "need" hi-fis that costs tens of thousands of dollars. But we do, and in that context, a well-integrated sub is a great value.
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Clearaudio Ovation with Tracer Dynavector KARAT 17DX Naim Uniti Core Schiit Yggdrasil McIntosh C22/MC275 Wilson TuneTots B&W DB3D Nordost QKore/QBase/Frey 2 Transparent Super IsoAcoustics GAIA II Stax SR-009S with SRM-700T |
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