Upgrade plan for power, cables & distributor. Seeking advices.

[Parabellum]

Originally Posted by Puma Cat

I don't know how old your Yamaha integrated is, but its possible that it might be time to replace it. Even solid state components do not last for forever; transistors go bad, caps can fail, etc, etc.

Regarding ICs, I don't know that the problem you describe is due to the interconnects, especially if they are in good condition and don't have any internal shorts. That being said, if you were to consider new ICs, I'd also recommend Shunyata Venom RCA ICs; I just did a 10-day comparison with these vs my AudioQuest Columbia, which originally sold for $500/1M and I felt that while the two cables were very, very close in performance and overall sonic character, the Venom RCAs were just a touch quieter and as a result, more transparent, open, spacious, and detailed. But, we're talking a difference of a few percent here, I'd say. Still, the Venom ICs at an MSRP of $350 are 70% of the price original $500 MSRP for the Audioquest Columbia.

It might be time to consider better source components. I don't what your budget is, but if I were searching for something in a very reasonable price range that gave excellent performance, I'd be looking very seriously at a Schiit Freya tube preamp and Vidar Class A/B power amp. They can be purchased together for $1600. I put my little Schiit Valhalla headphone amp into my system for a while as it can also be used as single-input preamp, and I was very surprised how good it sounded compared to my $7500 Conrad-Johnson CT-5 preamp. So, don't let the price of Schiit audio gear be misleading, all their products punch WAY above their price class.

The more I think about it, the more I believe I am just pushing my CA-1000 to its limits. I agree with you that down the road I will have to upgrade it and since I really like the sound of Yamaha, I was thinking about the A-S2100. This is basically a modern equivalent and the sound signature is similar. My amplifier is from 1974. I had it professionnally recapped, professionnally modified to add a AC/IEC socket and also modified to have modern binding posts. This was a fun project as I wanted to know how good this vintage amplifier would sound when equipped with equivalent cabling and when matched with modern electronics. I like the slightly warm and rounded character of this amplifier.

Still, I contacted my tech regarding the issue I am describing and he told me that my amplifier was ok, and to look for a better IC. Before I went into renovation of my basement, I had a McIntosh C46, MC252 and MCD310 CDP. Although the CA-1000 sounds very good, it cannot match the fullness and realism of the Mc. On the Mc, all cymballs sounded like real cymbals, full of air around the instruments. Everything was more real. The CA-1000 cannot achieve this by comparison. But it satisfies me for now. Regardless how far down the road I may upgrade it, a good power conditioner inserted in the mix will only get things better now, and also later when I upgrade.

Since I have 2 duplexes on the front wall, and that it is only 1 20A dedicated line, my idea was to insert a Triton and plug all components thru it, amplifier included if that can be done. The Triton has 8 plugs which will be more convenient then being limited to 6 on the Talos or DPC-6.

Or, if using a DPC-6, I could plug all digital components except the amplifier. The amplifier would be plugged straight to the wall using an Alpha HC. I also have a Venom Defender that I cannot use for now since I am out of plugs. I just don't know yet what is the best solution for my application.

[John Jordan]

Serge-

This will not solve dirty power issues but...

Adding additional sockets is not a big deal. The existing can be opened up, the sheetrock cut back and a two duplex box installed. Another box can be added above or to the left or right.

Although adding another dedicated line would be more complicated now, perhaps cutting a few small holes and "snaking" the wire would work. This would require some spackle skills.
Another idea less aesthetic is to run the wire in a conduit down a corner and close to the
floor.

[Parabellum]

Originally Posted by John Jordan

Serge-

This will not solve dirty power issues but...

Adding additional sockets is not a big deal. The existing can be opened up, the sheetrock cut back and a two duplex box installed. Another box can be added above or to the left or right.

Although adding another dedicated line would be more complicated now, perhaps cutting a few small holes and "snaking" the wire would work. This would require some spackle skills.
Another idea less aesthetic is to run the wire in a conduit down a corner and close to the
floor.

Thanks John for the suggestions. I felt a bit discouraged when I realized that I had the golden opportunity to add a second line but only though about it too late. It's hard to convince myself now to rip the ceiling open, plastering, painting again. On the other hand, sometimes you just have to spit in your hand and just do it. I don't know really what to do with this. I think if I do it, I will run another duplex between those two already in place. I forgot to mention that the trusses runs perpendicular to the back wall that you see, and that the ceiling is now filled with roxul batt. I would need to drill all the trusses, which are not open; they are 2 × 10's. At least, me being me, I took plenty of pictures before closing the walls and ceiling. You can see in the pictures below. I will reconsider this as a possibility. Well, everything can be done but it's a matter if I want to start all over again.

Edit:
I just had an idea, since I used 1 × 3 spacers under the trusses before hanging drywall, there is a space of 3/4 now under them so maybe I could phish the wire underneath so this way I would not need to cut the ceiling open. My electrician once told me that it is allowed by the code.

[Antonmb]

Originally Posted by Parabellum

Since I have 2 duplexes on the front wall, and that it is only 1 20A dedicated line, my idea was to insert a Triton and plug all components thru it, amplifier included if that can be done. The Triton has 8 plugs which will be more convenient then being limited to 6 on the Talos or DPC-6.

I don’t think you need to run another line. Unless you’re planning to add some big monoblocks, there’s no reason not to plug your amp and the rest of your components into a Triton. A 20a circuit will handle everything you have without breaking a sweat, and a Triton will do a good job of isolating components from each other. A Denali would also be a good option. An Alpha NR from the wall will give you great noise reduction, and then cables of your choice from the conditioner.
As for the Defender, Shunyata told me when I added my Denali that the Defender was superfluous, that the Denali was doing much more than the Defender did and keeping the Defender in the same circuit would not provide a cumulative effect. I’m guessing the same would be true with a Triton, but if in doubt I’d reach out to Shunyata.

[Parabellum]

Originally Posted by Antonmb

I don’t think you need to run another line. Unless you’re planning to add some big monoblocks, there’s no reason not to plug your amp and the rest of your components into a Triton. A 20a circuit will handle everything you have without breaking a sweat, and a Triton will do a good job of isolating components from each other. A Denali would also be a good option. An Alpha NR from the wall will give you great noise reduction, and then cables of your choice from the conditioner.
As for the Defender, Shunyata told me when I added my Denali that the Defender was superfluous, that the Denali was doing much more than the Defender did and keeping the Defender in the same circuit would not provide a cumulative effect. I’m guessing the same would be true with a Triton, but if in doubt I’d reach out to Shunyata.

Hey thanks for the input. I would much prefer to run all the components from a Triton as it's the main purpose to add it to the mix. Running the amplifier from it, I would benefit from its noise filtering capabilities. I don't plan for now to go with monoblocks, or anytime soon so if I can do without adding another line, it's the best option for me.

[Parabellum]

I just made a quick change by swapping the Black Mamba HC/CX and the XLO Ultra X-10. Now, the BM HC/CX is on the amplifier and the XLO on the DAC. By doing this, I notice an audible improvement in decreasing the background noise. Bass is a little bit leaner, less weight, but much more controlled and lifelike. There is a bit more clarity and air around the instruments. I will continue auditionning but I am eager to ear what the Triton can bring in this department. I know also that before on my MC252, I had a Python CX and there was an immediate improvement in the bass compared to the BM HC/CX I had also back then. Since I plan an Alpha HC 15A for this task, I think I will be covered.

[Puma Cat]

Originally Posted by Antonmb

I don’t think you need to run another line. Unless you’re planning to add some big monoblocks, there’s no reason not to plug your amp and the rest of your components into a Triton. A 20a circuit will handle everything you have without breaking a sweat, and a Triton will do a good job of isolating components from each other. A Denali would also be a good option. An Alpha NR from the wall will give you great noise reduction, and then cables of your choice from the conditioner.
As for the Defender, Shunyata told me when I added my Denali that the Defender was superfluous, that the Denali was doing much more than the Defender did and keeping the Defender in the same circuit would not provide a cumulative effect. I’m guessing the same would be true with a Triton, but if in doubt I’d reach out to Shunyata.

Bingo.

[Puma Cat]

Originally Posted by Parabellum

I just made a quick change by swapping the Black Mamba HC/CX and the XLO Ultra X-10. Now, the BM HC/CX is on the amplifier and the XLO on the DAC. By doing this, I notice an audible improvement in decreasing the background noise. Bass is a little bit leaner, less weight, but much more controlled and lifelike. There is a bit more clarity and air around the instruments. I will continue auditionning but I am eager to ear what the Triton can bring in this department. I know also that before on my MC252, I had a Python CX and there was an immediate improvement in the bass compared to the BM HC/CX I had also back then. Since I plan an Alpha HC 15A for this task, I think I will be covered.

Sounds consistent with my experiences.

The Black Mamba HC/CX is a great PC for amps, and you will really realize the full potential when you plug your amp into the Triton. It's pretty amazing, on the order of a full component upgrade, in my experience. The Alpha HC 15A should work great on your integrated amp, or any other device you use with it.

I've had my Triton since 2013 and it brought a significant improvement to the system, most notably with a considerable reduction in noise as well as the amp's ability to draw current during dynamic transitions. I'd like to upgrade it to a V3 some time, but I don't know what that would cost; I should inquire.

[Parabellum]

Originally Posted by Puma Cat

Sounds consistent with my experiences.

The Black Mamba HC/CX is a great PC for amps, and you will really realize the full potential when you plug your amp into the Triton. It's pretty amazing, on the order of a full component upgrade, in my experience. The Alpha HC 15A should work great on your integrated amp, or any other device you use with it.

I've had my Triton since 2013 and it brought a significant improvement to the system, most notably with a considerable reduction in noise as well as the amp's ability to draw current during dynamic transitions. I'd like to upgrade it to a V3 some time, but I don't know what that would cost; I should inquire.

All the information is up on Shunyat's website here https://shunyata.com/upgrades/

From a v1 to v3, it's 3500$,
And from v2 to v3, it's 1950$

I like the idea of the upgrade path instead of having the conditioner obsolete. That is one of the reason I like Shunyata.

[Puma Cat]

Originally Posted by Parabellum

All the information is up on Shunyat's website here https://shunyata.com/upgrades/

From a v1 to v3, it's 3500$,
And from v2 to v3, it's 1950$

I like the idea of the upgrade path instead of having the conditioner obsolete. That is one of the reason I like Shunyata.

Ah, great! I thought it would be in the ballpark of $3500.

Good to know, thanks, Serge!