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Speaker Fusing
I have an ancient but still very effective passive Janis W1 15" Subwoofer. Came with a 60W amp, later Janis upgraded to a 120W version I believe. I now run 200 (2 channels of my MC 2107) into it and sometimes the 1.5A (fast blo) fuse trips, typically on a loud movie passage of course. I am wondering if I could go a tad higher and/or to a slo blo on this unit without fear of doing real damage. Anyone got any experience here?
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#2
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Steve.......Is the fuse you are speaking of installed in the interphase crossover amp that is part of the Janis W1 subwoofer system? There is no crossover inside the W1 cabinet so an external crossover of some type needs to be between the preamp and the amplifier that is driving the W1. Is the fuse internal in the woofer cabinet?
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A Last edited by jdandy; 07-29-2017 at 11:53 PM. |
#3
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Fuse input
My Vandersteen 5's have an internal crossover in each..... fused. They come from the factory with slo-blo. In light of my experiences with the Synergistic Research BLACK fuses I went with those. It was a good move audibly and soundstage. As to the question of increasing amperage value, the slo-blo will have a slight allowance for a mini-surge. I do not know what value is in there now but if you go on-line @ the SR site all the fuse values are listed.
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#5
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Steve.......Since the fuse is not protecting a power supply or other circuits, only protecting the voice coil in the woofer, I think you would be safe using a slow-blow fuse or even going up from a 1.5 amp to a 2 amp fuse. The woofer voice coil can take momentary peaks that exceed its rating, just not sustained over driving. You will hear the woofer distort or even make a rattling type noise if the cone excursion exceeds its limits. If that happens, turn it down a bit. The other option is to bypass the fuse.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
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#7
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Hmmmmmm....just found this. Looks like other folks suffer the same issue I do. Wonder if 5 seconds is too long, though. Since the 1.5A was originally intended for the 60W Interphase, I guess 2.5 makes sense for 200, though these are so inexpensive it might make sense to start with the 1.5 version Heck, it resets itself so why should I worry about more cutouts vs. feweras long as they are reasonably rare as is the case now....
https://www.parts-express.com/speake...-200w--260-830 |
#8
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Steve,
Your Janis W-1 predates modern home theater systems and really isn't designed to handle the big LF effects found in modern movies. While very effective for augmenting the low end for 2 channel music systems, it doesn't have the power handling capacity needed to make home theater effects bass come alive. It is trying to tell you something when it blows fuses. Tom
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
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#10
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Beautiful
The W-1 has a real nice looking cabinet. I understand why you'd want to keep it. I like the idea of a resettable fuse - it would make life a lot easier.
Enjoy! Tom
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
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