#351
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Thank you Craig. I can't even wait to really dig in. The active crossover function seems like it will even take me to the next level. I need some longer balanced cables to start playing with my F113s. For now I'm totally content to not have subs in the chain...and I LOVE bass!!! I just can't even believe the difference room perfect makes. For the first time I can remember I am perfectly happy (blown away) by my system. Audio Nirvana is here. (Can't imagine what adding the other Swiss army features will do).
__________________
Main > Aurender N10/N100 / Antipodes K50 > Aries Cerat Kassandra mk2 - Playback Designs Dream DAC > D'agostino Momentum HD > PS Audio P10 > D'Agostino S250 > Sonus Faber Aida / REL S812 Six Pack + 4 JL Audio F113 Fathoms > B&W Signature HTM > Anthem Statement D2v > Mcintosh MC205 > Focal 1000 (side surrounds) > Bryston TIW (rear surrounds) Secondary System > Aurender N100h> AMR777SE > D'agostino Momentum Integrated > Wilson Sasha DAW |
#352
|
||||
|
||||
Dan,
I've finally gotten the time to try and integrate my dual subs using my new MEN220. (To be honest, I haven't been in any hurry to integrate my subs because Room Perfect alone does amazing things. Frankly, had I bought the MEN220 years ago, I'd have never bought subs for my 2 channel rig). OK, now for my question. Do you set the high output as High Pass Filter (setting that to 36hz) AND set the low output as Low Pass Filter also setting that to 36hz? The low pass filter settings make sense, I was a little confused at that to set the high output to. Quote:
__________________
Main > Aurender N10/N100 / Antipodes K50 > Aries Cerat Kassandra mk2 - Playback Designs Dream DAC > D'agostino Momentum HD > PS Audio P10 > D'Agostino S250 > Sonus Faber Aida / REL S812 Six Pack + 4 JL Audio F113 Fathoms > B&W Signature HTM > Anthem Statement D2v > Mcintosh MC205 > Focal 1000 (side surrounds) > Bryston TIW (rear surrounds) Secondary System > Aurender N100h> AMR777SE > D'agostino Momentum Integrated > Wilson Sasha DAW |
#353
|
||||
|
||||
Jason.......Yes, setting the low pass and the high pass to crossover at the same frequency is the correct way to do it. Depending on which crossover you selected (Linkwitz Riley or Butterworth) will determine the slope at the crossover point. I preferred the Linkwitz Riley 4th order setting for a steep 24 dB per octave crossover point.
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#354
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Got it. Thank you a bunch! I'll play some more.
__________________
Main > Aurender N10/N100 / Antipodes K50 > Aries Cerat Kassandra mk2 - Playback Designs Dream DAC > D'agostino Momentum HD > PS Audio P10 > D'Agostino S250 > Sonus Faber Aida / REL S812 Six Pack + 4 JL Audio F113 Fathoms > B&W Signature HTM > Anthem Statement D2v > Mcintosh MC205 > Focal 1000 (side surrounds) > Bryston TIW (rear surrounds) Secondary System > Aurender N100h> AMR777SE > D'agostino Momentum Integrated > Wilson Sasha DAW |
#355
|
||||
|
||||
Dan,
Just reporting in. I can't believe the difference selecting the Linkwitz Riley 4th order setting (vs the 2nd order) makes. This is all hieroglyphics to me, but the 4th order setting made everything snap together (I had it on the 2nd order as the default before I saw your message). Thanks for your sage wisdom...big difference. I'm a little intimidated about all the nuances with settings, but its pretty incredible how this sounds. Quote:
__________________
Main > Aurender N10/N100 / Antipodes K50 > Aries Cerat Kassandra mk2 - Playback Designs Dream DAC > D'agostino Momentum HD > PS Audio P10 > D'Agostino S250 > Sonus Faber Aida / REL S812 Six Pack + 4 JL Audio F113 Fathoms > B&W Signature HTM > Anthem Statement D2v > Mcintosh MC205 > Focal 1000 (side surrounds) > Bryston TIW (rear surrounds) Secondary System > Aurender N100h> AMR777SE > D'agostino Momentum Integrated > Wilson Sasha DAW |
#356
|
||||
|
||||
Jason.......Happy to know that suggestion provided improvement. The steeper 24 dB roll off at the crossover point keeps the two different low frequency drivers from overlapping larger areas of the same frequencies. Don't be afraid to lower the crossover frequency from 36Hz to 32Hz or even a bit lower. Your B&W 800's should have no difficulty reproducing 32Hz or lower, so augmenting the lowest frequencies below that point with the f113's will further enhance the lowest octave in an invisible manner. You don't want your subs to be calling attention to themselves but you do want that lowest octave to be present. Once you are satisfied with the crossover point use the Master volume controls on the subs to blend them seamlessly into the output of the 800's.
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#357
|
|||
|
|||
Hi all,
I was looking at the MEN220 as well. My biggest concern though is that I am investing into some serious digital equipment: Aurender N10 -> Mcintosh D1100 -> MC601 -> XR100s. If I put the MEN220 between the D1100 and MC601 will I be destroying all of the D1100 goodness? I assume the MEN220 has to use its own DACs to correct the room. The setup is in my open living room. |
#358
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#359
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
How big is your room? I know in my oddly shaped open basement, I simply cannot live without my MEN220. Bass reproduction is night and day.
__________________
Main > Aurender N10/N100 / Antipodes K50 > Aries Cerat Kassandra mk2 - Playback Designs Dream DAC > D'agostino Momentum HD > PS Audio P10 > D'Agostino S250 > Sonus Faber Aida / REL S812 Six Pack + 4 JL Audio F113 Fathoms > B&W Signature HTM > Anthem Statement D2v > Mcintosh MC205 > Focal 1000 (side surrounds) > Bryston TIW (rear surrounds) Secondary System > Aurender N100h> AMR777SE > D'agostino Momentum Integrated > Wilson Sasha DAW |
#360
|
|||
|
|||
If you're anxious about losing the benefits of the d1100 then I would recommend a mini-dsp with dirac. It can be configured with digital in and out so you can keep the benefits of your d1100.
That said, imo the benefits of room correction VASTLY outweigh any benefits a DAC can give. Audiophiles talk about "jaw dropping " and "night and day" differences between components which is mainly bs. Room correction, though, is the real deal. Put a great system into a poor room and you get a poor system. |
|
|
Audio Aficionado Sponsors | |