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JL Audio Ahead of the Curve

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  #81  
Old 08-06-2018, 11:19 AM
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UPDATE:

It's been one month today since the successful repair of my JL Audio Fathom f113 subwoofer. I have played music in the living room everyday and the subwoofer is working flawlessly. I have the Fathom set for Auto turn-on when a music signal is sensed at the inputs, exactly the way I used it for nine years before the capacitor failure. All is well and hopefully I will not have any other issues for years to come. Long live my JL Audio subwoofer.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
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VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A

Last edited by jdandy; 08-06-2018 at 11:36 AM.
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  #82  
Old 08-06-2018, 09:14 PM
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Amp: MC1.2KW x 2, MC602, MC2300
Preamp: C52, MX136, C34V
Digital Source: Oppo BDP 105, Pioneer 47Ai, CAL MkII
Analog Source: MT10
Speakers: VMPS Super Tower lll
Subwoofer: JL Audio F113
Power Cables: Wireworld Platinum Electra 7
Speaker Cables: Straightwire Serenade ll
Signal Cables: Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7
Power Isolation: RGP 1200C
Rack: Adona Eris 9TW modified to Eris 12TW

Amp: Yamaha RX Z9
Digital Source: Pioneer BDP 94HD, Oppo UDP-205
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Center Speaker: B&W CC6
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Surround Speakers: B&W DM 602
Subwoofer: Velodyne SPL 12BV
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  #83  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:26 PM
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Nice job Dan
What ESR meter did you purchase? I have an old Heathkit Cap tester that runs them under load and voltage selectable from 2-600v, great for checking coupling caps. Sometimes its difficult to test mylars. Curious if yours will test Mylar
Sometimes it almost mandatory to have a good cap to compare.
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  #84  
Old 08-13-2018, 10:20 PM
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John.......I use the Signstek MESR-100 capacitor meter.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-MESR...70_&dpSrc=srch
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC452, MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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  #85  
Old 01-06-2019, 01:28 AM
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Dan, thanks for all the details and pics! My F112 (v1) died about a week ago, leading me to search online. I found posts from others complaining about similar issues. However only your post had sufficient info for me to attempt this on my own.

I also had trouble removing the amp, but the M6 machine screws did the trick! I only needed one and the amp came out enough for me to do the rest.

Once the amp was on my workbench, I removed the hex bolts holding the PCB and the power transistors, but the PCB was still stuck. Turns out there is some black mushy material (silicon caulking?) on the large capacitors that hold it to the metal. Slicing it near the metal freed it.

I did not have an ESR device, so I ended up changing both caps that you referenced from Mouser. I double checked my work and put everything back together including the cable ties that hold the wires in place.

I plugged the amp back in and attached a few screws to hold it in place. I plugged in the power cable and it turned back on! My amp was finally on again! Big sigh of relief.

At this point, I heard some ground noise I never heard before. I don’t know why, but figured maybe something else had also gone wrong. Since the hum was mild, I figured it should be fine from in my listening chair. I unplugged power, finished securing all the screws, then moved the sub back into its place. I plugged in the source RCAs and the power cable. The ground hum was now gone... no idea about this one.

I played a few tracks and all was well!

Oddly, I became somewhat accustomed to listening without the sub, and realized I had its level higher than necessary. I adjusted it slightly down and now the bass transitions smoothly from my Olympica III’s to the sub bass of the F112.

Very happy this repair went so smoothly. Thanks again Dan!

Last edited by r0b; 01-06-2019 at 01:57 AM. Reason: Grammar + words
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  #86  
Old 01-06-2019, 02:05 AM
r0b r0b is offline
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Thanks Ivan for making this a sticky thread!

The F113 repairs Dan specified worked exactly the same for my F112.

I should also add that my first thought when the sub died was not how to repair it... but what to upgrade to!
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  #87  
Old 01-06-2019, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0b View Post
Dan, thanks for all the details and pics! My F112 (v1) died about a week ago, leading me to search online. I found posts from others complaining about similar issues. However only your post had sufficient info for me to attempt this on my own.

I also had trouble removing the amp, but the M6 machine screws did the trick! I only needed one and the amp came out enough for me to do the rest.

Once the amp was on my workbench, I removed the hex bolts holding the PCB and the power transistors, but the PCB was still stuck. Turns out there is some black mushy material (silicon caulking?) on the large capacitors that hold it to the metal. Slicing it near the metal freed it.

I did not have an ESR device, so I ended up changing both caps that you referenced from Mouser. I double checked my work and put everything back together including the cable ties that hold the wires in place.

I plugged the amp back in and attached a few screws to hold it in place. I plugged in the power cable and it turned back on! My amp was finally on again! Big sigh of relief.

At this point, I heard some ground noise I never heard before. I don’t know why, but figured maybe something else had also gone wrong. Since the hum was mild, I figured it should be fine from in my listening chair. I unplugged power, finished securing all the screws, then moved the sub back into its place. I plugged in the source RCAs and the power cable. The ground hum was now gone... no idea about this one.

I played a few tracks and all was well!

Oddly, I became somewhat accustomed to listening without the sub, and realized I had its level higher than necessary. I adjusted it slightly down and now the bass transitions smoothly from my Olympica III’s to the sub bass of the F112.

Very happy this repair went so smoothly. Thanks again Dan!
r0b.......You are quite welcome. I am happy to know my thread and the repair I outlined served to get you back up and running. I have to commend you on your effort. Digging into the back side of a JL Audio f112/f113 can be daunting. You saved yourself about $500.00 in repair and shipping cost, not to mention wrestling that monster of a sub back into its shipping box and getting it shipped. Congratulations on your successful repair. .
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC452, MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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  #88  
Old 01-06-2019, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
Gentlemen.......I would not let this issue dampen your enthusiasm for JL Audio subwoofers. They represent some of the best subs available today from any manufacturer. My Fathom f113 gave me 9 years of daily service without an issue before this problem popped up. If the new capacitors bring it back to life I will most likely get another decade or more of service from it without issue. It is not worth the stress worrying about a failure that hasn't happened yet.

You know how it is with news, only the bad stuff makes it to print. If one considers just how many JL Audio subwoofers have been sold and are still in service without issues, the small number we hear about, mine included, represent a very small percentage of the total JL Audio subwoofers in use. No reason to fret.

Worry is debt paid in advance for something that has not happened yet. It is a waste of time and energy. Crank it up guys. Enjoy your music.
I wholeheartedly agree with Dan.....I too dread the day one of my JL subs need service, but chances are it won't be that big a deal to fix. So often, the culprit in broken audio gear is caps. Not always, but often!

In looking over this thread again, and Dan's photos, I can't help but be impressed with the amplifier module contained in the F113. It is impressive.

I have two E110's in my bedroom theater, and one E112 in my 2 channel office system. They do a fabulous job.
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Main System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR78, MCD1000 Transport, MDA1000 D/A Converter, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Equinox 7 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect

Florida Room/Studio System: Pioneer PL-L1000 TT/Audio Technica ATS52W2, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Carver SD/A-490t, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna

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Office System: Marantz 150, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect


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  #89  
Old 01-06-2019, 07:59 PM
r0b r0b is offline
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@dan,
@pete, agreed!

The fact that this was a rather simple repair, and that it was only caps, gives me more confidence in JL Audio subs! I will continue to be a customer when it is time to upgrade or expand into 2.2. I would have thought the actual moving driver would fail first but fortunately it is still kicking.

FWIW, the date on the box for this sub is 2009. I got it used in 2014, and its use is regular / near daily at low to moderate volume. So like Dan, it has served me well for many years and I also leave its power setting on Auto.

Makes me wonder why only the power supply caps needed replacement. Is it because of the 85C specification?

Like others have noted, caps don’t last forever. I’d be willing to change out all of the caps now that I have seen how easy it is to change two.
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  #90  
Old 01-06-2019, 08:14 PM
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r0b.......I don't have a schematic for my f113 but as I am able to determine the auto-on sensing circuit cuts power to the amplifier circuitry, yet the auto-on circuit remains energized 24/7 when the auto-on mode is selected in order for it to control the relays that power the amplifier once an incoming audio signal is detected. This means the capacitors in the amplifier are only energized while music is playing, and once the auto-on circuit senses loss of audio signal and times out the amplifier is no longer energized. This would naturally extend the life of the amplifier's capacitors.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC452, MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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