#41
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The easiest way to determine if an Mc amp is fully balanced (Quad Balanced) is whether it has separate ground terminals for each set of impedance taps. If it does, then it's fully balanced from input to output.
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Lossless > D100 / Yami YP 450 tt > MA7000 > KEF RDM3 / SVS SB2000 / Too much music, not enough time. |
#42
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Need to contemplate the contemplate the different ohm taps a little further though...may not keep this setup more out of long term equipment concern more than anything.
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Sources: Linn Klimax DS, Kaleidescape Strato S Amps: MC452 & MC301 Speakers/Subs: Sonus Faber Olympica III’s & Nova CII in Wenge, 2 x JL Fathom 112's w/ Sound Anchor stands Pre/Pro: C1100, MX122 Power: PS Audio P10 Cables: Center speaker-Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8, L/R Speakers-Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7, Kimber Palladian Power Cables, Kimber KS1126 Interconnects Misc: Furutech Flux 50 NSF, Furutech GTX-D NSF outlets, Furutech Boosters Last edited by McDaddy; 08-06-2018 at 10:19 PM. |
#43
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That looks awesome!
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Main > Aurender N10/N100 / Antipodes K50 > Aries Cerat Kassandra mk2 - Playback Designs Dream DAC > D'agostino Momentum HD > PS Audio P10 > D'Agostino S250 > Sonus Faber Aida / REL S812 Six Pack + 4 JL Audio F113 Fathoms > B&W Signature HTM > Anthem Statement D2v > Mcintosh MC205 > Focal 1000 (side surrounds) > Bryston TIW (rear surrounds) Secondary System > Aurender N100h> AMR777SE > D'agostino Momentum Integrated > Wilson Sasha DAW |
#44
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McIntosh: MC 1.2kW, C1100, MX123, MC8207, MVP901 Esoteric: D-02X & G-01X, Aurender: W20 SE Paradigm: Persona 7F, C5v3, ADP3, JL Audio: F113v2, CR-1, Shunyata: Everest, Denali 6000/Sv2, Altera Shunyata and WW: PCs, SCs and ICs. |
#45
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So far I am moving along happily with bi-wiring my speakers from the 4-ohm taps. It's almost as if I have a new system.
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SOTA, Grado, SME, Van den Hul, Gingko turntable setup; Pioneer Elite LD, BDP; Sony OLED TV; Magnum Dynalab tuner, antenna; MIT S-video cable; Pangea HDMI cables; DVDO video processor; McIntosh SACD, preamp, power amps; Telefunken Black Diamond preamp tubes; Kimber IC; Transparent IC, PC, SC; Mirage speakers; PS Audio, Shunyata PC; Audio Additives RCA caps; Furman power conditioning; Sanus: racks |
#46
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I have a pair of MC1201 connected to a B&W 800D2. At the moment I am experimenting with bi-wire (bass connected to 8ohm and mids to 4ohm). I noticed that the amplifier gets hotter than usual. Is this normal? Am I risking a potential problem to the speaker or amp?
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#47
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So, why do you need 3dB more bass? Either the bass in your system/setup is in proper balance or not?
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#48
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Personally I think it's a bad idea to compromise the speaker's response as originally designed by the manufacturer. Better to use an EQ or relocate the speakers toward the wall if more bass is desired. Last edited by 62caddy; 08-06-2018 at 04:09 PM. |
#49
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See my earlier post, #27. I was advised by Ron Cornelius to step back to the 4-ohm taps if the amps (501s in my case) started to get hot. I tried the 8-ohm taps for one song and didn't like it. My speakers are 6-ohm, and everything on 4-ohm sounds better to me, good overall balance. I used 4-ohm taps for mids/highs and 2-ohm for bass previously. the 501s never even got warm.
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SOTA, Grado, SME, Van den Hul, Gingko turntable setup; Pioneer Elite LD, BDP; Sony OLED TV; Magnum Dynalab tuner, antenna; MIT S-video cable; Pangea HDMI cables; DVDO video processor; McIntosh SACD, preamp, power amps; Telefunken Black Diamond preamp tubes; Kimber IC; Transparent IC, PC, SC; Mirage speakers; PS Audio, Shunyata PC; Audio Additives RCA caps; Furman power conditioning; Sanus: racks |
#50
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I have been running two pair of ML-1Cs in parallel on the 4 ohm taps and one pair of ML-2Cs on the 8 ohm taps on my MC2300 power amp for, eh-hem, more than three decades in my living room system!
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