#101
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I’ve just joined the dead F113 club. I was watching Spiderverse a month or so ago and it was still chugging along. But watching Bohemian Rhapsody didn’t have as much punch. My Crowson shakers probably masked the loss of the sub.
Wish I’d seen this thread earlier. I ended up ordering a GoldenEar SuperSub XXL with dual 12” and dual passive radiators today. That arrives on Monday. In the meantime, this will give me a chance to test my soldering skills. Thanks to the thread starter and the various contributors for the help. To be fair, the f113 has served me well for 7 years. And it was so impressive I stopped using the Crowson transducers for a long time. I only put it back on to do a demo for a friend. Would be keen to see how the GoldenEar stacks up. [emoji51]
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AcousSignThunderTA5000PurpleHeartNS WandMasterPearwoodII PSA DSD BHK ThielCS3.7SS2.2 |
#102
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doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#103
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Quote:
It's still such an amazing sub. Anyone know what the v2 adds over the v1?
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AcousSignThunderTA5000PurpleHeartNS WandMasterPearwoodII PSA DSD BHK ThielCS3.7SS2.2 |
#104
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Quote:
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#105
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Thanks audio bill.
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AcousSignThunderTA5000PurpleHeartNS WandMasterPearwoodII PSA DSD BHK ThielCS3.7SS2.2 |
#106
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Quote:
I have never been more confused. https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ZKkJBz7qJsY%3D This doesn't look like the one in the photo Or is it this one? https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...j0GWHtGlel8%3D
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AcousSignThunderTA5000PurpleHeartNS WandMasterPearwoodII PSA DSD BHK ThielCS3.7SS2.2 |
#107
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Or this one?
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...bqUE9MEHeRE%3D Is the spec right? The Nichicon is only rated for 1000 hours - isn't that a bit short? The Panasonic for 2000 Here's a Panasonic with 6000 hours https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...52BwKUw0HtM%3D I am confused.
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AcousSignThunderTA5000PurpleHeartNS WandMasterPearwoodII PSA DSD BHK ThielCS3.7SS2.2 |
#108
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JL Audio Fathom f113 repair
Here’s what you do. Once you’ve taken the amp out of the sub enclosure, measure the size of the caps you are replacing. Diameter is usually the limiting factor for radial leaded caps.
Then find a replacement cap that is the same diameter with the same capacitance rating and the highest working voltage and temperature rating you can find. If you have a choice, go for the longer base life part as well. A base life of 2000 to 8000 hours is a good target. 1000 hrs is low. The reason you select parts this way is that voltage stress and temperature stress are the two things that kill electrolytic caps. It’s not linear either. Doubling the voltage spec will increase life 2.65 times. Increasing the temp specification is an even bigger life accelerator. Going from an 85 C cap to a 105 C cap when the cap itself is at 50 C will increase the life 4 times. These effects are multiplicative. So all other things being equal using a 105 degree C cap with twice the voltage rating of the original will increase the life 10.6 times! I have simplified the math behind these assumptions and can point you to more info if you’d like. I used The ATT Reliability Handbook and MIL HDBK 217 to make these rough calcs. Tom
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v Last edited by W9TR; 06-15-2019 at 07:40 AM. |
#109
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Thanks for all the help and pointers.
I’ll try to pull out the amp module over the weekend. But in the meantime, the GoldenEar is here. And for what I use it for (pure home theatre), it’s bloody awesome. It doesn’t have ARO or XLR connections. But it does pack a punch. And a lot of kick.
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AcousSignThunderTA5000PurpleHeartNS WandMasterPearwoodII PSA DSD BHK ThielCS3.7SS2.2 |
#110
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doggiehowser.......See post #4 for photos, and post #71 for Mouser parts numbers for the two capacitors.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
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