#1
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Single or Bi-wire
I take it most probably uses single wire configuration for their SF, but I was thinking of going bi-wire route for mine(2 on the amp side and 4 on the speaker side).. Any pros & cons??
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#2
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Dewey.......Which Sonus faber speakers are you planning to bi-wire?
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#3
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Futura..
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#4
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(FWIW, I do not believe (based on my personal experience) that bi-wiring has any audible advantage over competent single wiring.) |
#5
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Run one run of speaker wire. |
#6
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In my experience, the only advantage to bi-wiring is replacing the cheap jumpers that come with most speakers with quality cable/termination. Unless the cabinets are modular, all of my DIY builds only have a single set of posts.
Unless you plan on bi-amping or using an active crossover, more than one pair of posts are a waste.
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2CH: W4S DAC-2, W4S STP-SE, W4S SX-500, Custom ScanSpeak/SEAS Towers, Hot Rodded Rega TT and Jolida JD9 Phono Pre, Asynch PC Transport, WireWorld Gold Eclipse 6 XLR HT: Marantz AV7005, W4S Mini MC-5, Custom Waveguide Towers, SVSPB12-Plus/2 |
#7
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Thnx everyone for the feedback..
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#8
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dteam,
I've been trying to figure this out myself for the last couple of months with my Futuras. I've come to the conclusion that it depends on the amp, the speaker, and the cable. Which in itself is a useless piece of information I did buy a second pair of one of the cables I was trialling, and heard a slight increase in weight and detail. But this change was dwarfed by those effected by using a different brand of cable, or a different model within a brand. Let's say you have a budget of $3000 for speaker cable. For a true bi-wire, that means 2 runs of a $1500 cable. Is that going to be better than a cable that is $2500 for a single run plus $500 for matching jumpers? I am using cost just as an example, because there certainly is not a direct correlation between cost and how suitable a cable may or may not be. My experience suggests it is unlikely that you would get a better result bi-wiring within a given budget. Do as Bill sagely suggested, and get the best single run with jumpers. Of course, finding the best cable isn't easy in itself. As an aside, I have quite a few pairs of SF speakers, bought over a long time frame. Interesting that the brand itself goes backwards and forwards as to whether they provide a single set of terminals, or bi-wired. I tend to think SF provide the split terminals in the Futura for bi-amping rather than bi-wiring. On a speaker as expensive as the Futura, I wish they would have provided jumpers made from whatever internal wire they use, rather than the plates. Still, I can understand the issues which this would present (such as bananas or spades, etc.). |
#9
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