Tannoy Canterbury SE

[shindostevesan]

And thanks again to Britt for another great listening session!

[kev313]

Those older GM70 models are very handsome!

[mulveling]

I'm finding that warmer / darker sounding tubes are perhaps a poor match with the Canterbury SE, whereas I really liked that kind of of tube with the Kensington SE. As to be expected with speakers at this level, any component change and some tube changes will yield a HUGE audible impact.

I replaced my amps' RCA 12BH7 drivers (very warm) with GE 5814 a while back, and now I'm trying EH KT90 again in place of the Tung-Sol KT120 I'd been using for 2 years. Perhaps my KT120's are getting long in the tooth (though I keep system hours low), but they always sounded as if there was slight downward FR slope. The KT120 also fills in the bass -- which the Kensington needs, and the Canterbury really doesn't need. The KT120 was a clear, easy victor on the Kensington; my set of KT90 had been collecting dust for these 2 years.

The EH KT90 is not a perfect tube; it features a touch a SS-like sonic dryness (especially compared to the KT120) that's not going away, but with the Canterbury it really sounds ALIVE compared to the KT120. The top-end wakes up without tipping into brightness; the bass still has prodigal power but now is notably faster and tighter (which actually increases its perceived impact); the midrange, despite a touch of dryness, is very clean and crisp.

Would like to try some KT88, especially the Russian Gold Lions, but when your amps take 3 quads it's a painful trial

As far as input tubes go, I've settled on late 1950's Mullard long-plate 12AX7 for now. They're actually clean and beautifully extended up top; not at all soupy-warm like some other Mullards (e.g. later short plates and cv4004 box plates). I've tried Telefunken 12AX7 ribbed plates, and while they liven up the Canterbury all on their own (even with KT120), they bring with it some surplus brightness/harshness and thus listening fatigue. Though, these certainly aren't premium Telefunkens I've got here.

[MisterBritt]

Originally Posted by mulveling

I'm finding that warmer / darker sounding tubes are perhaps a poor match with the Canterbury SE, whereas I really liked that kind of of tube with the Kensington SE. As to be expected with speakers at this level, any component change and some tube changes will yield a HUGE audible impact.

I replaced my amps' RCA 12BH7 drivers (very warm) with GE 5814 a while back, and now I'm trying EH KT90 again in place of the Tung-Sol KT120 I'd been using for 2 years. Perhaps my KT120's are getting long in the tooth (though I keep system hours low), but they always sounded as if there was slight downward FR slope. The KT120 also fills in the bass -- which the Kensington needs, and the Canterbury really doesn't need. The KT120 was a clear, easy victor on the Kensington; my set of KT90 had been collecting dust for these 2 years.

The EH KT90 is not a perfect tube; it features a touch a SS-like sonic dryness (especially compared to the KT120) that's not going away, but with the Canterbury it really sounds ALIVE compared to the KT120. The top-end wakes up without tipping into brightness; the bass still has prodigal power but now is notably faster and tighter (which actually increases its perceived impact); the midrange, despite a touch of dryness, is very clean and crisp.

Would like to try some KT88, especially the Russian Gold Lions, but when your amps take 3 quads it's a painful trial

As far as input tubes go, I've settled on late 1950's Mullard long-plate 12AX7 for now. They're actually clean and beautifully extended up top; not at all soupy-warm like some other Mullards (e.g. later short plates and cv4004 box plates). I've tried Telefunken 12AX7 ribbed plates, and while they liven up the Canterbury all on their own (even with KT120), they bring with it some surplus brightness/harshness and thus listening fatigue. Though, these certainly aren't premium Telefunkens I've got here.

Those are some interesting observations. Near the end you mention you have settled on the late 1950's Mullard long-plate 12AX7. I'm actually running the CV4004 now. I might check out those long-plates. Those are the 17MM plates? I see some on eBay. I'm not too intelligent about this stuff so I appreciate the observations and recommendations.

[mulveling]

Originally Posted by MisterBritt

Those are some interesting observations. Near the end you mention you have settled on the late 1950's Mullard long-plate 12AX7. I'm actually running the CV4004 now. I might check out those long-plates. Those are the 17MM plates? I see some on eBay. I'm not too intelligent about this stuff so I appreciate the observations and recommendations.

Yes, the pair I'm using has 17mm plates with halo getters and f91 codes. I've also had some cryo'd CV4004 Mullard (still got them somewhere), and I think there's a good chance you'd really dig the long plates over them. Better extension, better clarity & detail; smoother all round, while sacrificing none of the musicality. The CV4004 are warmer; the long plates more neutral.

I didn't bother to track down a super premium, super expensive pair (dealers will charge you a mint). Used-test-good pairs at a good price have done just fine. In fact, each my long-plate pairs cost less than I spent on the CV4004 pair. I use them in the phase inverter slot of my amps; it's a position that significantly impacts sound quality while not being super-sensitive to noise/microphonics. Plus I need only 2 tubes within the ballpark of each other (not too tightly matched) -- the perfect scenario for a rare vintage tube!

[MisterBritt]

Originally Posted by mulveling

Yes, the pair I'm using has 17mm plates with halo getters and f91 codes. I've also had some cryo'd CV4004 Mullard (still got them somewhere), and I think there's a good chance you'd really dig the long plates over them. Better extension, better clarity & detail; smoother all round, while sacrificing none of the musicality. The CV4004 are warmer; the long plates more neutral.

I didn't bother to track down a super premium, super expensive pair (dealers will charge you a mint). Used-test-good pairs at a good price have done just fine. In fact, each my long-plate pairs cost less than I spent on the CV4004 pair. I use them in the phase inverter slot of my amps; it's a position that significantly impacts sound quality while not being super-sensitive to noise/microphonics. Plus I need only 2 tubes within the ballpark of each other (not too tightly matched) -- the perfect scenario for a rare vintage tube!

Sounds good. I'm using the Mullard 12AT7 (CV4024 actually) in the phase inverter slot of my amps. And Gold Lion reissue KT88 power tubes.

It's hard for me to estimate from your photo, may I inquire how far from the rear wall are your Canterbury SEs? So we're on the same page, let's say from the front of the speakers to the back wall? I've been playing with mine. Esthetically I like them better nearer the rear wall but they seem to sound better pulled out quite a ways.