C2500 stuck in tube warmup mode

[tjarmstrong]

Originally Posted by Citroen

Thanks everyone. Its good to get it back.

Was told it has two plastic clips that attach it to the board. You just need to push the clips back in place, as I must have been too forceful when holding it in for the 10 seconds trying to revive it. Sounds like an easy enough job to do

That's correct. The same thing happened to mine. The small board that contacts the buttons came loose during shipping. If anyone has problems with the buttons, its likely you just need to take the top off and snap the board back into the retaining clips. It takes about 5 min.

[miner]

Originally Posted by ejr1953

I had a similar problem when I had a MAC6700, some sort of "blip" caused it to get corrupted, had to have the dealer do his magic to clear and install the then latest version. After that, had my power conditioner connected to an APC battery backup unit, in the hopes that a momentary blip in the power caused the corruption.

Glad you got this solved! I have a C2500 and since I use an external DAC, and don't use a turntable (just use the DAC to C2500 input), don't feel I need to fool with C2500 firmware updates. From what others post here, they can be flakey!

Congrats on getting the C2500 back, sweet sounding preamp!

I had my MAC6700 connected to an APC20S battery backup and it still got the firmware disease from a minor blip.

[ismelllikepoop]

ugh i dropped my arc and shindo gear to get mcintosh, and not worry about reliability 10-20-30 years down the road. did i make a mistake with my c2500, now im thinking about a c22

[krustycat]

Besides the issues with the internal DAC, I have not heard of any other problems.

You should be good [emoji4]

[Allan W.]

I purchased my C2500 in January of this year, it was NOS. It has performed flawlessly. Like many, I use an outboard DAC but I have tried the internal DAC and it performed fine with my Mac Mini. I have two turntables, MM and MC and a stand alone Multi Format Digital Disc Player along with the outboard DAC plugged into the 2500 and the darn thing has been bullet proof.

[Formerly YB-2]

Thus far my McIntosh gear has been very reliable. A diode blew in my MC2255 about 20yr ago when the amp was ~15yr old and the laser died in my my MVP861 after ~10yr of use. Do think that there is "too much electronics" in our modern gear. Especially the firmware/software based 'stuph'. It took 4 or 5 rels to get the firmware right in my MA6600. Hopefully it stays 'right'.

[Audiophilehi]

Originally Posted by tjarmstrong

That's correct. The same thing happened to mine. The small board that contacts the buttons came loose during shipping. If anyone has problems with the buttons, its likely you just need to take the top off and snap the board back into the retaining clips. It takes about 5 min.

Is it the board that needs to be snapped back into retaining clips or the cable snapped back into the board?

Thanks

[BlueSky]

Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2

It took 4 or 5 rels to get the firmware right in my MA6600. Hopefully it stays 'right'.

LOL. Remember, there's no such thing as perfect or, for that matter, intermittent software. Only software with latent defects that are waiting to be discovered.

Software/firmware companies always release software with known issues some of which are not critical and some, unfortunately, that are. Management simply makes the determination whether or not they can live the fallout from doing so.

[tjarmstrong]

Originally Posted by Audiophilehi

Is it the board that needs to be snapped back into retaining clips or the cable snapped back into the board?

Thanks

I don't recall an issue with the cable connection. In my case the board had come loose on one end so some of the buttons had to be pushed in deeper to make contact the switch or would not reach the switch at all. After snapping the board back in, all the buttons worked normally.

[Audiophilehi]

Originally Posted by tjarmstrong

I don't recall an issue with the cable connection. In my case the board had come loose on one end so some of the buttons had to be pushed in deeper to make contact the switch or would not reach the switch at all. After snapping the board back in, all the buttons worked normally.

Thanks TJ!

I'll have a look in the next day or two.