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Magnepan Full-range ribbon and planar speakers

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  #231  
Old 01-21-2014, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikado463 View Post
Carlos / Toccata, Funny you should bring the two dipoles up……… I've been a dipole guy for Thirty years(Maggies and Logan's), my current speakers being M/L Spire's but when I was back home for Thanksgiving I got a chance to listen to a friends kit with nicely broken in Maggie 3.7's fed by Parasound Halo JC-1's………astounding, if there is a better speaker at or remotely near it's price point I haven't listen to it yet !
Dave - Thanks for sharing your experience with that great set up. So, are you going to make to move from ML to Magnepan?

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  #232  
Old 01-21-2014, 05:54 PM
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Nothing, really. What's happening is that Maggie threads were originally intermingled with ML threads under a single planar speaker section and after the two were given their own sections not all threads were transferred. That's why this 20.7 thread is on the ML section.
Not anymore. It looks like all Maggie threads are now properly filed under the Magnepan section now.

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Last edited by cma29; 01-21-2014 at 05:56 PM.
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  #233  
Old 01-23-2014, 01:19 PM
wildcat82 wildcat82 is offline
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Default 20.7 Amp showdown

Here is an interesting update, my dealer just dropped off a pair of MC601's for me to test with my 20.7s, while I was waiting for the 601s to show up I ordered a Sanders Magtech on the 30 day trial. The Magtech replaced the MC452 I used with the 3.7s and was instantly a huge improvement over the 452, the question now was how would it stand up to the mono 601's. Well the answer is that it not only held its own its significantly better than the 601s, with a much warmer fuller sound stage. I made sure that the volume level was the same using a sound meter, the Sanders Magtech is for real, it really makes the 20.7s sing!
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  #234  
Old 01-28-2014, 01:30 PM
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Thumbs up Sanders Magtech Amplifier

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Originally Posted by wildcat82 View Post
Here is an interesting update, my dealer just dropped off a pair of MC601's for me to test with my 20.7s, while I was waiting for the 601s to show up I ordered a Sanders Magtech on the 30 day trial. The Magtech replaced the MC452 I used with the 3.7s and was instantly a huge improvement over the 452, the question now was how would it stand up to the mono 601's. Well the answer is that it not only held its own its significantly better than the 601s, with a much warmer fuller sound stage. I made sure that the volume level was the same using a sound meter, the Sanders Magtech is for real, it really makes the 20.7s sing!
Thanks for sharing. Here are some pics for this amp along with specs. Nice looking amp and not too expensive.

SPECIFICATIONS OF MAGTECH AMPLIFIER

Power (Stereo Version)
500 watts RMS per channel into an 8 ohm load
900 watts RMS per channel into a 4 ohm load

Bandwidth: DC through 100kHz
Class of Operation: Class AB
Slew Rate: 500 Volts/microsecond
Input voltage required for full output: 2 Volts
Input Impedance: 50kohm (both balanced and unbalanced)
Gain: 26dB
Noise: More than 110dB below rated output
Damping Factor: Greater than 600 into an 8 ohm load
THD: Less than 0.004%, 20 Hz - 20 kHz
IMD: Less than 0.003%, 20 Hz - 20 kHz
Voltage: Voltage is user selectable for use world-wide.
Dimensions: 17" wide x 5.5" tall x 16" deep (43cm x 14cm x 40.6cm)
Weight: 55 pounds (25 kg)

Manufactured in Conifer, Colorado.



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  #235  
Old 01-28-2014, 03:33 PM
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Wildcat82,

Congratulations on your new amp and those 20.7's I'll bet it sounds great!

Cma29 thanks for posting the pictures.

~Mike
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  #236  
Old 04-17-2014, 01:36 PM
klao klao is offline
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Default Bypassed the Attenuators

Been having the 20.7's in my setup for about 6 months (albeit only a month or so of playing time), and I'm quite sure those ribbon tweeters are not too hot for the new room.

Yesterday, I managed to bypass both the tweeter and midrange attenuators. Not 100% sure they're better than not, because I kept changing the music.

Anyhow, I'm having a peace of mind for not having to worry about which jumpers or wire to replace the stock connectors.
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  #237  
Old 04-17-2014, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by klao View Post
Been having the 20.7's in my setup for about 6 months (albeit only a month or so of playing time), and I'm quite sure those ribbon tweeters are not too hot for the new room. Yesterday, I managed to bypass both the tweeter and midrange attenuators. Not 100% sure they're better than not, because I kept changing the music. Anyhow, I'm having a peace of mind for not having to worry about which jumpers or wire to replace the stock connectors.
Thanks for sharing. I use no attenuation either (just the brass plated jumpers) and the sound is very fine.
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  #238  
Old 04-18-2014, 12:34 AM
klao klao is offline
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Originally Posted by cma29 View Post
Thanks for sharing. I use no attenuation either (just the brass plated jumpers) and the sound is very fine.
Actually, I did something like this (not bypassing the fusese, though), and there's no jumper needed. magnanpan2 : )

I can't bypass the attenuators on my 1.7's; somehow the wiring at the back is too tightly-spaced.


Last edited by klao; 04-18-2014 at 01:13 AM.
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  #239  
Old 04-18-2014, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by klao View Post
Actually, I did something like this (not bypassing the fusese, though), and there's no jumper needed. magnanpan2 : ) I can't bypass the attenuators on my 1.7's; somehow the wiring at the back is too tightly-spaced.
Interesting.

How did you bypass the attenuators exactly? I guess you did something internal behind the connectors...
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  #240  
Old 04-19-2014, 11:43 PM
klao klao is offline
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Originally Posted by cma29 View Post
Interesting.

How did you bypass the attenuators exactly? I guess you did something internal behind the connectors...
Yes, Carlos, I had to open up the back plastic panel. Not a difficult process; given simple houshold tool box and non-DIYer skills like mine. Make sure you unhook the speaker cables first. : )

Please see the diagrams from this article here: magnanpan2. (Actual wire colors differ, though.) The idea is to modify as the third/bottom picture, so the two wires share the same connection point, bypassing just the attenuator link. For the 20.7 (and also 3.7), have to do that for both tweeter & midrange links.

Last edited by klao; 04-19-2014 at 11:47 PM.
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