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active x-overs
I've been reading some threads on active x-overs and wanted to get some opinions on the CR-1 vs the Bryston 10b vs the Pass XVR1. I have a c500p running into 2301s (powering PMC IB2 speakers) and 2x JL f112 subs. I bought the ib2 speakers for the mids not the bass and figured since they are a hungry speaker my 2301 amps might benefit from a little more "headroom". I like the low profile of the Bryston but overall sound trumps other factors for me. Thoughts?
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#2
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If all you are doing is crossing a sub into your mains, any of the ones you listed will be fine. The XVR1 will be overkill for this and be much more complex to set up than either the Bryston or the JL.
If you are doing an active multi-way (3,4,5 or more-way) crossover system, the XVR1 is the way to go because you can keep adding control modules. |
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If you haven't read my http://www.audioaficionado.org/bryst...tml#post114587 review yet, you might find it interesting. It can be ordered in balanced or single ended versions. Mine was balanced.
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A Last edited by jdandy; 01-07-2016 at 01:30 AM. |
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Thanks for your note Dan. I should have figured you had covered this! I will definitely review. What s great forum.
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Update: I have a CR-1 inbound. I'm excited but have a question:
I currently "toe in" my ib2 speakers. Should I toe in my f112s as well or does it make more sense to ou the subs close to the back wall and adjust the phase? (The f112 manual shows the subs not toed in). Thx for your input. |
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__________________
My 2ch rig: Audio Nirvana 6.5" full range in DIY towers w/Tymphany 3/4" silk dome tweeter : Integra DTM 40.4 : Transparent Audio Ultra MM2 Cabling |
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Location in the room is what counts with a sub. Toe in isn't necessary for a sub. Last edited by GaryProtein; 01-27-2016 at 02:24 PM. |
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#10
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Thanks Everyone! I have the CR-1 in place and am just waiting for the necessary cables-- will be sure to provide any resulting insights!
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