Stillpoint Ultra SS with Wilson Speakers

[chessman]

Originally Posted by audiohippo

Looking at the Ultra SS, is there a specific thread size needed for the Sasha v2?

I understand you to be asking is there a specific thread size for the insert adapter replacing the original Wilson threaded insert. The answer is yes. Stillpoints sells insert adapters threaded on one half to screw into the speaker base plate and the other half (a different size) to screw into the Stillpoint. Ivan can tell you the size (they vary by speaker manufacturer and, perhaps, by speaker). For example:

[turntable]

Hey guys or Ivan I need your advise.

I have moved my speakers to the TV room and it has floating floorboards. Currently on the Wilson spikes with the brass floor protection.

I am going to put the Stillpoint Ultra SS in place of the spikes, however I am not sure if I should use the Stillpoints direct on the floor or on top of the Wilson floor covers.

Please note, the Maxx3's can only be lifted with the Wilson Jack as the speakers are so friggin heavy. That means the Ultra's would be holding the entire speaker on its edge when attached the last two Stillpoints. I do not want to mark/indent the floating wooden floor.

Anyone's experience would be appreciated.

cheers

[tima]

Originally Posted by turntable

Hey guys or Ivan I need your advise.

I have moved my speakers to the TV room and it has floating floorboards. Currently on the Wilson spikes with the brass floor protection.

I am going to put the Stillpoint Ultra SS in place of the spikes, however I am not sure if I should use the Stillpoints direct on the floor or on top of the Wilson floor covers.

Please note, the Maxx3's can only be lifted with the Wilson Jack as the speakers are so friggin heavy. That means the Ultra's would be holding the entire speaker on its edge when attached the last two Stillpoints. I do not want to mark/indent the floating wooden floor.

Anyone's experience would be appreciated.

cheers

Hey Shane - I use Ultra5s under my Alexias and UltraSS' elsewhere. Here are my thoughts:

- Presumably you have adapter threads, which attach directly into the speakers. I wouldn't use them otherwise.

- If I understand your UltraSS's correctly from the picture, you can remove the top hat and thread the adapter into where it was. The idea being the supported source is closer to the isolation internals, which is preferred. It also gives a broader base on the downside.

- You could put the UltraSS's on the Wilson protectors and they should work however (noting the MAXX's aren't lightweights,) I'm a wee bit skeptical of the potential for metal against metal slippage.

Or - sorry, you knew this was coming - you could spring for the Ultra5s, get far better results and not need the protectors.

[turntable]

Originally Posted by tima

Hey Shane - I use Ultra5s under my Alexias and UltraSS' elsewhere. Here are my thoughts:

- Presumably you have adapter threads, which attach directly into the speakers. I wouldn't use them otherwise.

- If I understand your UltraSS's correctly from the picture, you can remove the top hat and thread the adapter into where it was. The idea being the supported source is closer to the isolation internals, which is preferred. It also gives a broader base on the downside.

- You could put the UltraSS's on the Wilson protectors and they should work however (noting the MAXX's aren't lightweights,) I'm a wee bit skeptical of the potential for metal against metal slippage.

Or - sorry, you knew this was coming - you could spring for the Ultra5s, get far better results and not need the protectors.

Hi Tima, thanks for your thoughts

the adaptors screw into the top of the Stillpoint Ultra - see pic. removing the hat just leaves the physical screw easy with carpet, just plonk them down.

metal on metal slippage as you stated might be an issue when lifting up the back/front of the Maxxes with the Jack, not sure

I feel even with the 5's there is going to be strain from the 5's edge directly down onto the wood panelling floor.

atm the 5's are too much $$.

[tima]

Originally Posted by turntable

Hi Tima, thanks for your thoughts

the adaptors screw into the top of the Stillpoint Ultra - see pic. removing the hat just leaves the physical screw easy with carpet, just plonk them down.

metal on metal slippage as you stated might be an issue when lifting up the back/front of the Maxxes with the Jack, not sure

I feel even with the 5's there is going to be strain from the 5's edge directly down onto the wood panelling floor.

atm the 5's are too much $$.

Interesting ... I didn't use the 'diode' and went straight into the speaker. I had a friend help and it was a matter of tilting forward and back - no jack for Alexia. After we got the diodes off it was simple to thread on the SPs with their adapters already attached. Did not have to tip them much at all.

I'm taking it they are already moved and you're hoping to avoid taking them apart. If it was just me doing it, I'd tempted to work with the woofer module alone. But I understand the amount work involved in taking them apart and then back together, concerns about nicking the paint, etc.

Maybe you could raise them enough to slip a thin piece of wood under one pair of SPs already installed. That would bear the brunt of the weight when installing the other pair. Once they're all on, raise just enough to slide out that piece of wood. ????

[Masterlu]

I use one of these, and have the contact point carpeted. I can tilt and install Stillpoints by myself. Have done this with speakers weighing 300lbs.



http://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Lift...rch_detailpage

[thesaint519]

Originally Posted by tima

Hey Shane - I use Ultra5s under my Alexias and UltraSS' elsewhere. Here are my thoughts: - Presumably you have adapter threads, which attach directly into the speakers. I wouldn't use them otherwise. - If I understand your UltraSS's correctly from the picture, you can remove the top hat and thread the adapter into where it was. The idea being the supported source is closer to the isolation internals, which is preferred. It also gives a broader base on the downside. - You could put the UltraSS's on the Wilson protectors and they should work however (noting the MAXX's aren't lightweights,) I'm a wee bit skeptical of the potential for metal against metal slippage. Or - sorry, you knew this was coming - you could spring for the Ultra5s, get far better results and not need the protectors.

Hi Tima,

Not sure if you've ever posted your thoughts on the Wilson/Still Point marriage. If you have, pls direct me to that review. If you haven't, I'd love to hear your thoughts. I have Sasha - Gen I. Perhaps that mo ray could be best invested in upgrading the speakers. Thoughts?

[turntable]

Originally Posted by Masterlu

I use one of these, and have the contact point carpeted. I can tilt and install Stillpoints by myself. Have done this with speakers weighing 300lbs.

Hi Ivan.

I certainly won't be using that the Wilson Jack is very good at the job. I can do it alone. stk photos below.

My only worry is indenting the wood panel floor - that may be unavoidable to some degree if i want to use my Stillpoints.

[turntable]

Originally Posted by tima

Interesting ... I didn't use the 'diode' and went straight into the speaker. I had a friend help and it was a matter of tilting forward and back - no jack for Alexia. After we got the diodes off it was simple to thread on the SPs with their adapters already attached. Did not have to tip them much at all.

I'm taking it they are already moved and you're hoping to avoid taking them apart. If it was just me doing it, I'd tempted to work with the woofer module alone. But I understand the amount work involved in taking them apart and then back together, concerns about nicking the paint, etc.

Maybe you could raise them enough to slip a thin piece of wood under one pair of SPs already installed. That would bear the brunt of the weight when installing the other pair. Once they're all on, raise just enough to slide out that piece of wood. ????

The thing piece of wood is something to think about more.

btw, leaving the diode attached ensures it is the same height as with the spikes. With the 5's, all bets are off as they are larger in every respect.
thanks

[tima]

Originally Posted by turntable

The thing piece of wood is something to think about more.

btw, leaving the diode attached ensures it is the same height as with the spikes. With the 5's, all bets are off as they are larger in every respect.
thanks

Well, good look, hope it works out.