#361
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But what i am really trying to do is choose my music appropriately for my setup. For example I know I will not do cannons. That was just an example. What I really wanted to know is can my setup handle 85 db music with occasional 20 db peaks. |
#362
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Bill, let me try to answer some of your questions.
1) Most music is no lower than 40 H (the low note on a piano, IIRC). 2) I have two subs (JL Audio F113's sporting 5,000 aggregate watts) integrated with a Bryston 10B-Sub active cross-over and placed in a well trapped room. There is NO WAY I could hit 105 dB at 8H, nor would I want to if I could. Real cannoneers wear earplugs for a reason. 3) As said above, when a sub is well integrated in a two channel system you do not know it is there until you turn it off. It adds to the sound stage, removes harmonic distortion in the midrange, and takes some load off your amps (in effect giving them more headroom for better dynamics), but it does not rumble. 4) Distortion in a two channel system is a sign that something is wrong. It is usually a speaker trying to do something outside its physical limits - like imitating the transient response of a cannon shot. Clipping an amp is a great way to get distortion that then kills the speaker - like trying to get 105 dB of 8H sound out of a speaker diaphram that is not the size of a Volkswagen. 5) Actually the great danger to hearing in our hobby is that you get the system to sound so clean that there is no distortion at high volume, which fools you into playing it too loud. Sustained listening at too high a volume can cause permanent hearing loss. 6) The "hit you in the chest" bass that movie nuts like (like me) is actually mid-bass, say 50H to 150H. A subterranean subwoofer can be felt, but not as a thump to the chest. Hope that helps. |
#363
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On another note seems these subs are pretty much universally embraced. Can you tell me a little more about mid-range harmonic distortion? |
#364
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1) It takes more power (watts) to make a lower efficiency speaker play as loudly as a higher efficiency speaker. 2) Volume stated in dB (Decibels) is actually logarithmic, thus a 10 dB increase results in double the volume. 3) A 3 dB increase requires double the power, but only sounds 1.23 times louder. 4) So to get to double the volume, you have to increase the dBs by 10 times and increase the power by 100 times. 5) A musical event that is suddenly louder (like a cymbal crash) requires a fast and sufficient jump in power to achieve it. On a graph it would look like a spike with a curved top towering over the wave form. If the amp does not have enough power, it stops trying (clips) and the spike has a flat top (the dreaded square wave that eats tweeters). 6) It also takes power to control speaker diaphram movement. High notes barely move a diaphram and are able to be controlled at lower power. But real low notes require a large surface to move fast and precisely, which just gobbles power. That is why the same speaker will sound like the bass got better when a high current amp was added to the mix (among other things, which we will pass for now). 7) Bottom line on power: more power is not for playing louder (1000 watts only plays 3 dB louder than 500 watts), but is instead for control, transient response, and safety from clipping. 8) Because bass notes are hard to produce they take more power, which when insufficient leads to distortion. Let's say you have that distortion at 40H. There will also be distortion of some degree at 80H, 160H, 320H and so on, because of harmonics. When a sub does a better job of producing the low end musical notes, there is less distortion of them, and less harmonic reproduction of them. 9) Small rooms also have standing wave issues that relate to mid-bass distortion, but that is not fixed with amp power, but instead requires bass trapping. Hope that helps. |
#365
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Ditto
I again commend you for your articulate organized explanation. I am getting a real good feel for the qualitative points you have made. I think the quantitative questions I have will be solved by more experience.
I meant (additional questions) Last edited by william13; 12-30-2012 at 07:21 PM. Reason: spelling |
#366
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I could not fine my test tone CD so I am not sure how loud the G1 will play a 10Hz (I know it will not be near 105db). I do think you will be happy with a sub.... Randy had a good explanation on the fact that power consumption and how loud a speakers plays is not linear.
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Audio Room: Sonus Faber Amati Faturas / JL Audio 13.5” Fanthom In Wall Subs / McIntosh C52 / McIntosh MCD 1100 / McIntosh MEN 220 / McIntosh MC 601’s / McIntosh MPC 1500 / McIntosh MT 5 / McIntosh MC 275’s / Luxman AS-55 Amp Selector / Silenzo (This thing is Amazing) / Gold Lion Tubes from Vintage Tube All items in green were bought thru the AA marketplace and blue from a current AA retailer Last edited by jfray; 12-30-2012 at 05:59 PM. |
#367
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I'm pretty sure that a 10dB increase requires 10 times the power, not 100 times.
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#368
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Sent from my iPad using A.Aficionado |
#369
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Stereo System Test & Analysis Tones by Nino B. -chen g
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