Power cables...where to start 1st

[bvdiman]

Hi Rod,
Imho, it's not where to start first (unless of course they are all same). More important is getting the right cords for your right needs/applications.
Say in your case, for source/pre-amp, perhaps I'd prefer the tonality of RubyHill2 over SigmaHC, and for high current use--the other way around.
Or something like a RubyDC/Kraken which will work well on both applications. Ultimately, only you can determine the outcome in your set-up, but do try sticking to one brand--whatever the choice--if you can (especially from power sources onwards).
*To answer your question to me in other PSA P10's thread, I got SigmaHC over Ruby DC is more of cost factor not wanting to spend too much anymore on two cords feeding power conditioners, cost ratio being 3:1! And they're great cords anyway.. Time to just sit back and enjoy more music.

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[Formerly YB-2]

And, if the building goes dark, you don't know nuttin'.

[Rod#S]

Originally Posted by bvdiman

Hi Rod,
Imho, it's not where to start first (unless of course they are all same). More important is getting the right cords for your right needs/applications.
Say in your case, for source/pre-amp, perhaps I'd prefer the tonality of RubyHill2 over SigmaHC, and for high current use--the other way around.
Or something like a RubyDC/Kraken which will work well on both applications. Ultimately, only you can determine the outcome in your set-up, but do try sticking to one brand--whatever the choice--if you can (especially from power sources onwards).
*To answer your question to me in other PSA P10's thread, I got SigmaHC over Ruby DC is more of cost factor not wanting to spend too much anymore on two cords feeding power conditioners, cost ratio being 3:1! And they're great cords anyway.. Time to just sit back and enjoy more music.

You've let your subscription lapse hence can't PM anymore.. Come get back on board!

Man I wish I could afford the DC but I can't even afford the Mountain II so the Ruby's are all I can afford in the Siltech line up. Initially until I get a 2nd one I'll be using the Ruby on my upstream components, I'll try it on my BDP-2, DVD-A1 and MC-12. I can try it on my IT-Reference as well but in order to try it on the SPR-20i I need a 20a to 15a IEC adapter which I'll probably purchase after I get the 2nd cable.

Fall is a busy time of year, things keep eating into my AA subscriber money, so many Blu-rays, games and some music being released. It's hard to stay caught up.

Plus there's the dollar, Aficionado membership is the better part of $150 for me now and because of the poor dollar I can't afford to buy anything substantial from Ivan with the 30% difference which sucks. I would have 3 Bryston 7B's by now from Ivan if it wasn't for the dollar

[Rod#S]

Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2

And, if the building goes dark, you don't know nuttin'.

well, not until they find my corpse with the finger in the outlet

[Rod#S]

So out of curiosity I checked out some instructional videos on how to change outlets. Seems really straight forward. I am sure my outlet would have dual black and white feeds because it's in series with the 2nd outlet behind my gear that I'm not using.

So from a legal and/or fire hazard standpoint I assume it would be unwise to replace with an outlet that is a (I'm not sure what the right word is) a combo design, i.e. the sort of T shaped plugs that allow both 15a and 20a AC plugs and not just one type or the other. My circuits are all 15a. The only replacement outlet that I would really be interested in using is the Furutech GTX-D (R) but unfortunately it only comes with the dual purpose design. Sure I could get others like PS Audio, Oyaide, etc. in a strictly 15a design but I don't really want any of those.

[cleeds]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

... from a legal and/or fire hazard standpoint I assume it would be unwise to replace with an outlet that is a (I'm not sure what the right word is) a combo design, i.e. the sort of T shaped plugs that allow both 15a and 20a AC plugs and not just one type or the other. My circuits are all 15a ...

It is unwise to put a 20A outlet on a 15A line. Theoretically, the line's fuse or breaker should trip if current exceeds 15A. But connecting it this way discards a margin of safety. And it certainly would be code violation.

[Rod#S]

Originally Posted by bvdiman

Hi Rod,
Imho, it's not where to start first (unless of course they are all same). More important is getting the right cords for your right needs/applications.
Say in your case, for source/pre-amp, perhaps I'd prefer the tonality of RubyHill2 over SigmaHC, and for high current use--the other way around.
Or something like a RubyDC/Kraken which will work well on both applications. Ultimately, only you can determine the outcome in your set-up, but do try sticking to one brand--whatever the choice--if you can (especially from power sources onwards).
*To answer your question to me in other PSA P10's thread, I got SigmaHC over Ruby DC is more of cost factor not wanting to spend too much anymore on two cords feeding power conditioners, cost ratio being 3:1! And they're great cords anyway.. Time to just sit back and enjoy more music.

You've let your subscription lapse hence can't PM anymore.. Come get back on board!

I have a queston, with all your experience with Siltech do you have any inside information as to what cable gauge the Ruby Hill II actually uses? Obviously when dealing with high power/curernt amplifiers and conditioners insufficient gauge is a real fire hazard. I e-mailed Siltech and they absolutely will not disclose the gauge of the cable inside but assured me there would be no risk in using it with my equipment. I told them I had the Bryston 28's and Furman's. Given the outright girth of the Mountain there would never be an issue as there is little doubt it's sufficient but I haven't been able to quash the little voice inside about the Ruby Hill. I suspect as long as I continue running my gear within a 15A circuit things will be fine but if I were to run these cords on a 20A circuit that's where the unknown factor sets in.

I have a Kimber PK10 Gold which uses 3x10 gauge wires according to their cross sectional view on their website thus more than sufficient for 20A applications and I believe the Ruby Hill's are going to be extremely close in girth which bodes well for the Hill's but given that the construction will of course differ between the Siltech and Kimber such as insulation, etc. it's not going to be a strictly apples to apples comparison when only able to examine based on external girth.

[Formerly YB-2]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

Obviously when dealing with high power/curernt amplifiers and conditioners insufficient gauge is a real fire hazard.

Never say never, but I've been doing this crazy hobby quite actively since ~1967 and am a retired engineer, having spent my career in the industrial side of things. And, not once do I recall a power cord failure starting a fire. Overloaded extension cords? Yes. Actual power cords? Not one. Think you'll be safe with any reasonable power cord you may choose.

[bvdiman]

Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2

Never say never, but I've been doing this crazy hobby quite actively since ~1967 and am a retired engineer, having spent my career in the industrial side of things. And, not once do I recall a power cord failure starting a fire. Overloaded extension cords? Yes. Actual power cords? Not one. Think you'll be safe with any reasonable power cord you may choose.

Rod, I'm with YB2 on this.. I'm no techie, but I did use my Ruby1/2 with power conditioners and amps for years with nary a problem whatsoever. It's just that imo, for those high current purposes, it can be bettered (sonically)--and sometimes with cheaper alternatives. I think you should try not to worry too much about the girth size causing hazards and all, and just concentrate on its sound.
Have you taken delivery of your RH2 yet?

[Rod#S]

Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2

Never say never, but I've been doing this crazy hobby quite actively since ~1967 and am a retired engineer, having spent my career in the industrial side of things. And, not once do I recall a power cord failure starting a fire. Overloaded extension cords? Yes. Actual power cords? Not one. Think you'll be safe with any reasonable power cord you may choose.

Hi;

A bit of a story as to my concern. When I got my Furman IT-Reference many years ago, it was used and a cord didn't come with it. While I was waiting for my Kimber cord to arrive I used a cord from my Mesa/Boogie guitar tube amplifier. I can't remember all I had plugged into the Furman at the time but the cord got so hot I feared it might melt so I immediately disconnected and just waited for the Kimber. The Mesa/Boogie cord functioned and continues to function perfectly to this day powering the amp. So that experience left be being really cautious when it comes to power cords.