AudioAficionado.org  

Go Back   AudioAficionado.org > Turntables & Vinyl > Turntables & Tonearms

Turntables & Tonearms Where Analog still Rules

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 02-22-2010, 03:13 PM
PHC1 PHC1 is offline
Guest
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pa
Posts: 23,609
Default

Also watch the weight distribution of the balls. Place an extra amount towards the center of weight. In my case, I started out like this and had to eliminate one on the right. So I had two left side, one centered and one more centered on the right.


Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 02-22-2010, 03:18 PM
Jerome W's Avatar
Jerome W Jerome W is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,240
Default

Thanks Serge ! I Will try both reducing the balls number and their situation.
You see : you can be a great experiencing guy !
You should let David experience the Men 220 by himself !
__________________
There are two means of refuge from the miseries of life: music and cats
Albert Schweitzer
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 02-22-2010, 03:26 PM
PHC1 PHC1 is offline
Guest
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pa
Posts: 23,609
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by C220MC275 View Post
Thanks Serge ! I Will try both reducing the balls number and their situation.
You see : you can be a great experiencing guy !
You should let David experience the Men 220 by himself !
Who's stopping him? I am only offering my opinion on it..
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 02-22-2010, 07:26 PM
nsgarch's Avatar
nsgarch nsgarch is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 88
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by two dot View Post
Attaching anything to the wall is not an option.
Why?? I never met a wall I couldn't patch -- unless your wall is mirrored, gold-leafed, paneled in book-matched walnut, etc.
Quote:
This house has 3"X12" floor joists, and is extremely well built (1930) but there must be just enough movement in the fir flooring...
Actually, 1930's wood framing allowed much more bounce than today's structural standards permit. Longer spans were allowed (for a given joist depth) with more space allowed between joists. It would be best however, if you placed your rack against one of the long walls, where (typically anyway) all the joist ends attach. The joists usually parallel the short wall (to span the shorter distance), so the first one is out from the short wall 16-18 inches, and another 32-36 inches away; and they both deflect quite a lot, especially at mid-span (in front of the center of the short wall.) By comparison, there's very little deflection of the joist (ends) anywhere along the long wall.

Early wood framed floors are very bouncy. They were allowed to deflect quite a bit -- up to 1/360 of their span (any more would crack the plaster ceiling below ;--) Long wall is your best bet. Or an unsuspended TT.

Pillows, and balls, and cones, and Stillpoints, and Roller-Blocks, and Sorbothane, are all variously good at draining/damping vibes coming FROM the TT, but not incoming

.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 02-23-2010, 12:27 AM
Jerome W's Avatar
Jerome W Jerome W is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,240
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nsgarch View Post
Why?? I never met a wall I couldn't patch -- unless your wall is mirrored, gold-leafed, paneled in book-matched walnut, etc. Actually, 1930's wood framing allowed much more bounce than today's structural standards permit. Longer spans were allowed (for a given joist depth) with more space allowed between joists. It would be best however, if you placed your rack against one of the long walls, where (typically anyway) all the joist ends attach. The joists usually parallel the short wall (to span the shorter distance), so the first one is out from the short wall 16-18 inches, and another 32-36 inches away; and they both deflect quite a lot, especially at mid-span (in front of the center of the short wall.) By comparison, there's very little deflection of the joist (ends) anywhere along the long wall.

Early wood framed floors are very bouncy. They were allowed to deflect quite a bit -- up to 1/360 of their span (any more would crack the plaster ceiling below ;--) Long wall is your best bet. Or an unsuspended TT.

Pillows, and balls, and cones, and Stillpoints, and Roller-Blocks, and Sorbothane, are all variously good at draining/damping vibes coming FROM the TT, but not incoming

.

As always my friend I love your posts and I REALLY would like to see you here more often !
__________________
There are two means of refuge from the miseries of life: music and cats
Albert Schweitzer
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:39 AM
two dot two dot is offline
Guest
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,116
Default

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all of the tips. I had a great conversation about TT's with Jeff from AV Solutions tonight.

As many before have said, Jeff really know his stuff. AN encyclopedia of TT knowledge, and great guy to talk to.

Not only that, he fixed my "foot fall" problem.

He suggested putting a "wedge" between the stand and the wall behind it. I made some wedges, snugged them up.

Viola ... no more "bouncing tonearms..."

Thank you Jeff!!!
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 02-27-2010, 04:22 AM
Face's Avatar
Face Face is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 2,584
Default

Any pics?
__________________
2CH: W4S DAC-2, W4S STP-SE, W4S SX-500, Custom ScanSpeak/SEAS Towers, Hot Rodded Rega TT and Jolida JD9 Phono Pre, Asynch PC Transport, WireWorld Gold Eclipse 6 XLR

HT: Marantz AV7005, W4S Mini MC-5, Custom Waveguide Towers, SVSPB12-Plus/2
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 02-27-2010, 11:35 AM
PHC1 PHC1 is offline
Guest
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pa
Posts: 23,609
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by two dot View Post
Hey Guys,

Thanks for all of the tips. I had a great conversation about TT's with Jeff from AV Solutions tonight.

As many before have said, Jeff really know his stuff. AN encyclopedia of TT knowledge, and great guy to talk to.

Not only that, he fixed my "foot fall" problem.

He suggested putting a "wedge" between the stand and the wall behind it. I made some wedges, snugged them up.

Viola ... no more "bouncing tonearms..."

Thank you Jeff!!!
Jeff at A/V Solutions is a first class guy for sure!
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:33 PM
vintage_tube's Avatar
vintage_tube vintage_tube is online now
Just Pure Lucky



 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: East Coast
Posts: 8,839
Default

I was at first impressed with a Ginko Cloud 11 platform until months later I was playing around and when I thumped on the TT base, it was amplified thru the speakers. Vinh sent me a couple more balls (in addition to the 6) and regardless of 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 balls; it continued. I ended up removing it -- and no more thud sounds when I tapped on the TT.

Maybe the Ginko platforms don't perform as well with heavy tables (close to 60 pounds).

Bob
__________________
Amps:VAC 450iQ Monos in Silver Flake on HRS M3X2-1921's, HRS G7 Footers/G-Links & Sound Anchor Conecoasters.
Preamp:VAC Statement (on order) (Silver Flake)
Digital Source: dCS Rossini CD/SACD Transport, Vivaldi APEX DAC, Upsampler Plus & matching Clock (Silver)
Analogue Preamp:VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage in Silver Flake with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Valhalla XLR's.
Analogue Sources:SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Odin 2 Tone Arm Cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote (original owner since 1974).
Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf.
Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia V (on order in Ferrari Argento Silver/Parchment grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit).
Power Cables:4 Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps, preamp & DAC. Ansuz Acoustics C2 on Transport & Clock.
Power Distribution:Ansuz Mainz D3 Distributor & Ansuz Mainz C2 1M Power Cable
Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2) on dedicated, same panel phase, 20A breakers.
Speaker Cables:2M Nordost Odin 2 Supreme Reference on Nordost Sort Lifts.
Signal Cables:Nordost Odin XLR's on dCS DAC & Amps.
Digital Cables: Nordost Odin 2's, 110-ohm AES/EBU on dCS Transport to DAC.
Clock Cables:5 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital
Ethernet Cable: WireWorld Platinum 1M Starlight® 8 Twinax
Headphones:Vintage Koss Pro IV AA.
RCM: Audio Desk PRO
Tube Test Gear:Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A, MaxiMatcher Power Amp & Preamp & Space Tech Labs ATT-3.02 tube test sets.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Audioaficionado.org tested by Norton Internet Security

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:49 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©Copyright 2009-2023 AudioAficionado.org.Privately owned, All Rights Reserved.
Audio Aficionado Sponsors
AudioAficionado Subscriber
AudioAficionado Subscriber
Inspire By Dennis Had
Inspire By Dennis Had
Harmonic Resolution Systems
Harmonic Resolution Systems
Wyred4Sound
Wyred4Sound
Dragonfire Acoustics
Dragonfire Acoustics
GIK Acoustics
GIK Acoustics
Esoteric
Esoteric
AC Infinity
AC Infinity
JL Audio
JL Audio
Add Powr
Add Powr
Accuphase - Soulution
Accuphase - Soulution
Audio by E
Audio by E
Canton
Canton
Bryston
Bryston
WireWorld Cables
WireWorld Cables
Stillpoints
Stillpoints
Bricasti Design
Bricasti Design
Furutech
Furutech
Shunyata Research
Shunyata Research
Legend Audio & Video
Legend Audio & Video