Fuses

[jdandy]

Originally Posted by markc2

Thank you !

Interesting about the immunity to heat rise. I wonder if that could make an audible difference.

Mark.......There's only one way to find out for sure. Try them out.

[kb7215]

I changed out the stock (glass) fuses in my MCD500, which takes two T2A and three T1A fuses. All fuses are 20mm, Slo-Blo, 250V units. I substituted equivalent Furutech ceramic fuses and I confess to noticing an improvement. For critical listening in my system, I use Stax electrostatic headphones (SRM-007tII tube amp & SRM-007 MKII headphones). After playing several CD selections I know very well, I noticed more side-to-side spacing, more 'aura' around voices and believe it or not, more defined bass. I know some will instantly criticize the use of headphones over speakers, but I find them more analytical than speakers. I have Marten 'Bird' speakers, driven by MC2301s and a C1000T unit, but prefer the Stax units for late-night listening. The Stax amp, the C1000T and MC2301s are all fully balanced and I use XLR cables (Nordost Tyr) througout the chain. In order to remove the top MCD500 top plate, you'll have to remove at least one of the side plates and McIntosh uses very small Allen key machine bolts which are easy to damage (consider yourself warned!).

I offer this merely as an opinion to stimulate discussion and to note the positive changes which are evident to me. As they say, your mileage may vary (YMMV).

[Rick58]

I changed the mains fuse in my C220 to a HiFi Tuning all-silver one (500mA instead of the stock 630mA, but this shouldn't be an issue). Going back and forth, I 'swear' the silver one gave a little more detail/resolution (esp. in background vocals and other sounds), which is what I was looking to improve.

Subsequent swapping of the internal fuses (with the silver/gold HiFi Tunings) did not make an audible improvement ... I only did this once, tho, since it is more of a PITA (and the clips are DARN snug!). Maybe, though, they are 'facing' the wrong direction ...?

I think changing the mains fuse on the C220 is recommendable ...
The improvement was similar to rolling in some Tele ECC83s and later some Tesla E83CCs into the line section. Everything just gets a little mo' better.

[olli_1963]

Same results with the main fuse with my C220 as Rick described.
But the fuses are really direction sensitive - believe it or not.
Changed only 2 internal fuses with the Hifi Tuning fuses.
The fuse for the lightboard is still stock, because there where no audible differences.
All in all much more transparency.
Because of the positive results with the C220 I changed the fuses of the MC150 and Meridians also.
The MC150 now has a deeper and tighter bass (that is the main difference with this part).
The main profit the Meridians gained as well as the C220 was transparency.
Now the setup is on a higher level and the music is so ... clear - you can reach for the singer.
You exactly know where everybody performs.

Best regards,
Olaf

[TommyC]

Another believer

Originally Posted by olli_1963

Same results with the main fuse with my C220 as Rick described.
But the fuses are really direction sensitive - believe it or not.
Changed only 2 internal fuses with the Hifi Tuning fuses.
The fuse for the lightboard is still stock, because there where no audible differences.
All in all much more transparency.
Because of the positive results with the C220 I changed the fuses of the MC150 and Meridians also.
The MC150 now has a deeper and tighter bass (that is the main difference with this part).
The main profit the Meridians gained as well as the C220 was transparency.
Now the setup is on a higher level and the music is so ... clear - you can reach for the singer.
You exactly know where everybody performs.

Best regards,
Olaf

[MC352]

I agree with Dan, I can't imagine paying $30 for a ceramic fuse when I could pay $2.50.

It is a cheap enough tweak to try and I guess if you hear a difference than you got what you paid for.

It's no different then any other tweak I guess.

[W9TR]

For those wishing to experiment, here is the decoder ring for 5x20 IEC fuses.

T is time delay
F is fast acting.
A is the ampere rating
L is low breaking capacity - this fuse will have a glass tube
H is high breaking capacity - this fuse will have a white or gray ceramic tube
V is the voltage

So the ceramic fuses have an H in the part number.

For example a T8AH250V is a time delay 8A high breaking capacity 250 volt fuse.

If you have glass fuses in your gear, I'd recommend that you switch them out to the ceramic 'H' high breaking capacity fuses.

Regards,
Tom

[Luv4nature]

I first experimented the 2 accessible T10A fuses on my purepower APS 2000, replacing the stock with Hifi-Tunning gold plated fuses. Wow! there's an immediate improvement in the dynamics and presence to the music. Best way to describe this... the sonic improvement is almost similar to the effect of upgrading to a better gauge and more refined power cord.

Was sold after that and gradually replacing all the stock fuses, mostly with Hifi-tuning full silver.

Two further comments related to the fuse replacement.

-carefully apply XtremeAV quicksilver contact enhancer on the fuse caps as well as on the contact surfaces of the fuse holder clips (warning! be careful to apply only sparingly, do not spill, drip or short other points).

-where ever the space allow (normally on the clip-on type holder), I push-in and wrap the ceramic fuse body with silicon o-ring (1 x 4mm ID O-ring for 20mm small fuse, and 2 x 5mm ID O-rings for the large 32mm fuse). Serves to damp vibration on the fuse.

The improvement is even more significant with these 2 tweaks on the fuse, with lower noise floor, better clarity and separation, and even better dynamics!

Try it out to believe.

[TommyC]

Originally Posted by Luv4nature

I first experimented the 2 accessible T10A fuses on my purepower APS 2000, replacing the stock with Hifi-Tunning gold plated fuses. Wow! there's an immediate improvement in the dynamics and presence to the music. Best way to describe this... the sonic improvement is almost similar to the effect of upgrading to a better gauge and more refined power cord.

Was sold after that and gradually replacing all the stock fuses, mostly with Hifi-tuning full silver.

Two further comments related to the fuse replacement.

-carefully apply XtremeAV quicksilver contact enhancer on the fuse caps as well as on the contact surfaces of the fuse holder clips (warning! be careful to apply only sparingly, do not spill, drip or short other points).

-where ever the space allow (normally on the clip-on type holder), I push-in and wrap the ceramic fuse body with silicon o-ring (1 x 4mm ID O-ring for 20mm small fuse, and 2 x 5mm ID O-rings for the large 32mm fuse). Serves to damp vibration on the fuse.

The improvement is even more significant with these 2 tweaks on the fuse, with lower noise floor, better clarity and separation, and even better dynamics!

Try it out to believe.

It's hard to get better upgrade for $30 than replacing fuses.

[Luv4nature]

You bet ! Sometimes the sonic returns for these cheap thrills can be equal or better than a cable/ component upgrade