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Ye' Old Workshop Build it or Break it, Never Fear! |
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#1
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Getting into the MC 2505
One of the guys brought up "Vintage Gear" and mentioned the MC 2505. Since I have some time while the other amp sits waiting for parts, I've decided to dig into the 2505 which still works BTW, it just doesn't sound good!!
The electronics are an interesting example of U.S. technology in the '60s along with the Space Program and the Boeing 727 jetliner, etc. So here are some photos. In just 2 or 3 hours, I've polished it up nicely and changed out almost 20 of the old and cruddy screws. Many of the screws will need to be replaced. As stated.. it's a nice specimen of American electronics, but it simply sounds flat and cardboard-like. The obvious first cut diagnosis is to re-cap, but some of those ganged power supply capacitors are NLA (not available) and other axial lead caps look a bit strange. What are those components that look like pieces of candy in a yellow, red and white wrapper? -Gregory
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McIntosh MR80, MR77, MCD7007, C33, C26, MC2205, MC2505, MQ104, XR6, Sonos, Thiel CS3.5 Last edited by Gregory; 06-27-2009 at 08:36 AM. |
#2
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Gregory,
Great pictures. The first one makes it look pristine, and then your close-ups are a revelation! I'm not a vintage guy at all, but would love to some day have something like that as a project. For a ~40 year old piece of equipment to still be working it's a testament to the workmanship for which Mac is famous.
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Sources: Vinyl: Clearaudio Innovation Wood turntable with 9" Universal tonearm, Da Vinci V2 cartridge, Stillpoints SS & Stillpoints clamp, McIntosh MVP 901, Apple Mac mini via Benchmark DAC 1, Aurender N100C via Schiit Yggdrasil Control: McIntosh C1100, Mcintosh MX151 Power: Mcintosh MC2301s (front), McIntosh MC501 (center), Mcintosh MC402 (rear) Speakers: Sonus Faber Amati Futura (front and back), SF Vox center Power/connections: PS Audio Power Port receptacles, RGPC 400 pro (2) WireWorld interconnects and speaker cable |
#3
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Gregory,
Nice pics, and this looks like another good project. Maybe Terry DeWick can point you to a place to get the Power Supply CAPs, or some replacement that will work in place of exact replacements. You do very nice work, and deserve to build your self a real nice workbench, so you can get out of the kitchen. I look forward to more of your posts.
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Chuck McIntosh, PMC, Bryston, Olive, Rega, Ortofon 2M Black, JL Audio, PS Audio, Alan Maher, Aural Harmony, Black Mountain, Wireworld, Symposium, DIY amp switch box, P Millett DIY headphone amp. [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#4
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Some who have come over and seen it powered-up in past years have done a double-take checking it out. Sitting there it looks really sharp, but a close inspection reveals that it's in need of some TLC. If you're a `detail´ kind of person, it it can be very satisfying. -Gregory
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McIntosh MR80, MR77, MCD7007, C33, C26, MC2205, MC2505, MQ104, XR6, Sonos, Thiel CS3.5 |
#5
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Quote:
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McIntosh MR80, MR77, MCD7007, C33, C26, MC2205, MC2505, MQ104, XR6, Sonos, Thiel CS3.5 |
#6
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Add that to your workshop - One refrigerator, One Water Cooler, 10,000 tools.
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Chuck McIntosh, PMC, Bryston, Olive, Rega, Ortofon 2M Black, JL Audio, PS Audio, Alan Maher, Aural Harmony, Black Mountain, Wireworld, Symposium, DIY amp switch box, P Millett DIY headphone amp. [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#7
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So where do we start? Murray says some guys re-stuff the ganged filter caps with axials or radials, and others just leave them in place and attach caps under the chassis. This might be too much like stepping into Terry's realm. What's available for axial Muse and KZ electrolytics? Maybe check out HME? Where can I order a pair of replacement 9300uF cans with date code: week 49 of 1972?
Also the drive boards are Mc part #043-916 which calls for Service manual 039-016. My service manual is for the earliest 2505 and is substantially different. -Gregory p.s. I think it's ok to change any screws on a McIntosh with new ones, but messing with the knobs and end-caps is a no-no.
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McIntosh MR80, MR77, MCD7007, C33, C26, MC2205, MC2505, MQ104, XR6, Sonos, Thiel CS3.5 |
#8
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The MC2505 is such a great little amp--nice photos and write-up.
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...Technopop. |
#9
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View of the four heat sink assemblies. Wires from driver boards to transistors on heat sink. Note the two red power supply wires coming in from the left. So it's something to ponder. Where to desolder? It will be fun and satisfying to rebuild (reassemble) the final amplifier stages after everything is deoxidized, defluxed recapped and restored. -Gregory
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McIntosh MR80, MR77, MCD7007, C33, C26, MC2205, MC2505, MQ104, XR6, Sonos, Thiel CS3.5 |
#10
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You can also loosen the caps and transformers on the chassis and polish under them (complete chrome restoration!).
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...Technopop. |
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