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  #11  
Old 05-04-2011, 09:13 AM
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+ yes longer break in.

only other note, I have built many systems with that tweeter, and I have some sometimes diff speaker cables will help it (the tweeter) be a little less in your face.

You may also want to test with diff cables if you have a set.

PS not that the cables you have are not great, but I think you will see a little diff depending on cables with that tweeter.
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:09 AM
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Thanks DJ. I'm pretty happy with the Satori's, but if I have the opportunity to compare them with others I'll give it a try..
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestige Worldwide View Post
Just to close the loop, it really did take about 200 hours for my speakers to open up, but I must admit the difference between now and then is substantial. No more harsh edge to the upper highs, I notice more decay, and the low end seems to have just a tad bit more extension. Very pleased...

Here's a question: Is it the tweeter that was not broken in or the midrange?

The tweeter typically breaks in the fastest of the drivers. The mid takes longer and it is typically the ranges of that unbroken in driver through it's upper crossover region that causes highs to sound harsh and grainy.

But who cares which and why? Dan is correct. Everything needs to break in and it occurs at very different rates.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmalak View Post
David...the Scanspeak Revelator tweeter is a wonderful tweeter spec'd in many high-end loudspeaker designs. I would agree with your dealer that you should give all the drivers and the crossover some time to break-in before listening to the speakers critically. One way to break them in quickly is to put an old CD player you have lying around on repeat and let the signal run through the speakers continuously. If the speakers are in a shared living space than you can do it overnight and put the speakers facing one another and set the volume level at a moderate level. You can tape off where the speakers are currently positioned so that if you move them to face one another at night, you can always place them back where they sound good. Hope this helps and congrats and good luck with the new speakers.
Left out the most important part from a domestic tranquility standpoint. Once you have a safe (healthy, not dangerous) volume level with the loudest passages established, power down (or mute) the amp and reverse the polarity of one set of speaker wires and power back up. The output will drop dramatically because the speakers are now out of phase and canceling over a large part of their range.

Whatever you do, do not adjust the volume up once you have done this. You have no idea how hard you are actually driving the speakers because of the cancellation.
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  #15  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metaphacts View Post
Left out the most important part from a domestic tranquility standpoint. Once you have a safe (healthy, not dangerous) volume level with the loudest passages established, power down (or mute) the amp and reverse the polarity of one set of speaker wires and power back up. The output will drop dramatically because the speakers are now out of phase and canceling over a large part of their range.

Whatever you do, do not adjust the volume up once you have done this. You have no idea how hard you are actually driving the speakers because of the cancellation.
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  #16  
Old 05-04-2011, 04:07 PM
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:
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaphacts View Post
Here's a question: Is it the tweeter that was not broken in or the midrange?

The tweeter typically breaks in the fastest of the drivers. The mid takes longer and it is typically the ranges of that unbroken in driver through it's upper crossover region that causes highs to sound harsh and grainy.

But who cares which and why? Dan is correct. Everything needs to break in and it occurs at very different rates.
Meta,
I had to replace two drivers on my 802 series 3 (the bass drivers
) my high frequencies sounded like they could peel paint for about 2 weeks?
What do you think was going on there?
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Last edited by Doug Lax; 05-04-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2011, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglax View Post
:

Meta,
I had to replace two drivers on my 802 series 3 (the bass drivers
) my high frequencies sounded like they could peel paint for about 2 weeks?
What do you think was going on there?
Assuming you have been sent the correct vintage drivers..

Think of what is happening. You had balanced sound with a developed bass response. The weight range was fully fleshed out.

You changed woofers resulting initially in a dryer, leaner, less prominent bass, particularly through the weight range, because the woofers weren't broken in. If you had listened to a cello or to a baritone or tenor voice, my guess is they didn't sound like they did before you changed woofers.

The tweeter hadn't changed at all but because the perceived tonal balance of the speaker had been altered in the bass, it appeared as if it had. The speaker sounded like it was leading with the high frequencies, that is it was unnaturally tipped toward the top. The tweeter should have seemed to recede over time until it was "back to normal" when the woofers had fully broken in.
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:02 PM
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The tweeter should have seemed to recede over time until it was "back to normal" when the woofers had fully broken in



Yes exactly
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglax View Post
The tweeter should have seemed to recede over time until it was "back to normal" when the woofers had fully broken in



Yes exactly
That's why I always fix set up/break in issues before ever considering throwing equipment at a problem.
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  #20  
Old 11-15-2011, 02:45 PM
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Is there a definitive CD for the break in period, or should one use several genres of music to cover various load levels? Not sure if I'm making any sense....
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