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  #21  
Old 04-21-2016, 03:23 AM
Nacho Nacho is offline
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What could i expect upgrading my Tad's jumpers? More refined mid/highs or better balance on the hole audio frecuency band?

Last edited by Nacho; 04-21-2016 at 02:01 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2016, 01:18 PM
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I can confirm better sound on the hole frecuency band.
Now the question is about to buy the same line as the loudspeakears cables or a top one.
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  #23  
Old 02-14-2017, 05:32 AM
SCAudiophile SCAudiophile is offline
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Originally Posted by Nacho View Post
I can confirm better sound on the hole frecuency band.
Now the question is about to buy the same line as the loudspeakears cables or a top one.
I have the same results here albeit with a different brand of cables, but overall the difference in getting rid of the stock TAD jumpers (as with my old speaker brand) and moving to a bespoke matching set of jumpers (to one's main speaker cables choice) is well worth the cost.

Method/direction of how to jumper also seems to make a difference with the R1s; connecting main speaker cables to the top binding posts (mids/highs input) and "jumpering down" to the bottom set of binding posts (bass input) seems to yield the best sonic results.
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  #24  
Old 02-15-2017, 06:02 AM
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Hi SCAudiophile.
Weeks ago i put again the standard Tad jumpers and had to remove them quickly. They are a big step back compared with my Siltech DC ones.
I'm really suprised how they can do show demos with the standard jumpers. They are miles away from the quality that these speakers need.
I know that they work best connected as you said on R1's, but on the CR1's, they work better from LF to HF. They are less eficience so they need more power on the bass.
One question i have is relating to the bass response on the R1's.
As you have refered to Cincy, your are interested on REL subs.
Do you feel that R1's lacks a bit of bass?
That question is important to me because i'm considering to upgrade to the R1's but adding subs could be a great approximation to the R1 results.
Regards.
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  #25  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:44 AM
SCAudiophile SCAudiophile is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nacho View Post
Hi SCAudiophile.
Weeks ago i put again the standard Tad jumpers and had to remove them quickly. They are a big step back compared with my Siltech DC ones.
I'm really suprised how they can do show demos with the standard jumpers. They are miles away from the quality that these speakers need.
I know that they work best connected as you said on R1's, but on the CR1's, they work better from LF to HF. They are less eficience so they need more power on the bass.
One question i have is relating to the bass response on the R1's.
As you have refered to Cincy, your are interested on REL subs.
Do you feel that R1's lacks a bit of bass?
That question is important to me because i'm considering to upgrade to the R1's but adding subs could be a great approximation to the R1 results.
Regards.
Good Morning!

That is an interesting tip on the direction of jumper(ing) the CR1s. I think I'll go back and try reversing my jumpers on the R1s just to make sure my initial listening impressions are still the correct ones (for the R1s) now that they are well over 400 hours and have really "come out".

There are a number of members here who have the CR1s and who also have them paired with one or 2 subwoofers; hopefully they will chime in. One gentleman and I were talking about this early on and he basically told me that he was able to get very close to what he remembering hearing in the R1s once he had 2 subs dialed in properly. Another told me it was close but not close enough to eradicate his desire to move to the R1s. The caveat being that you should get feedback directly from these guys as I'm paraphrasing much longer discussions I had with them and those conversations were at least 2 months or more ago.

Bass and the R1s: During breakin, the R1s bass went from impressive but more than a bit muddy to ultra-fast, accurate, very musical and very impressive particularly after I the 300 hour point of detailed break-in with sub-bass, bass and mid-bass heavy material. I am extremely happy with bass performance of the R1s in my room and if my tests and minimal skills with the software I pulled off the net for this purpose a long time ago are accurate, mine are going essentially flat to 21 Hz +/- 2db in-room. The transition from muddy to hyper-accurate during break-in is definitely explained by the stiffness and sheer size, weight and complexity of the bass driver's cones and motor structures; this was no surprise as I've been through the exact same transition with 5 other pairs of full range speakers and multiple subs over the years that had similar attributes in the bass driver design.

One special note on the R1 is that it has a rather nice (and cool!) horn-shapped port on the bottom front of the speaker. I love this aspect of the design and I'm sure it is partially responsible for delivering all those fantastic TAD bass drivers are capable of...

Depending upon musical tastes, 21-23 Hz is more than enough to cover 100% of the music many people listen too as there are not that many instruments that go deeper. The exception being pipe organ, synthesizer and a few other things that I love to listen to. I am considering a subwoofer only for the following situations;

- have a room mode at a small and discrete frequency band I'd like to balance out/remove

- I'd like to fill-in below 21 Hz down to 16 Hz (at least) as my prior speakers' sub-bass driver went flat in my room down to 16 Hz and rolled off very gradually below that; there are some notes form large pipe organ and synthesizer-involved prog-rock, techno, etc....that I'd like to hear that impactfully again without giving up the R1s as they are amazing speakers in 99% of the ways that I am looking for...I simply want to fill-in the extreme bottom-end of the frequency range

This may take a while to find the right musical, i.e. not home-theater/car audio "thumper" subwoofer. My memories of owning REL B1 Britannia and Studio III subs are fond ones and I'm looking for a 'high-pass' input capability similar to or exactly what REL provides. The new G25MkII looks ideal but there are ambiguities in the specs and I am still researching.

The absolute ideal subwoofer would be the Legacy Audio "GOLIATH" that is not often talked about (which is a tragedy as it is 'the' monster sub in the home audio world that won't set you back $30K-$50K; it goes down prodigiously and flat to 12 Hz (!!!) but requires a separate active EQ processor. I had to sell my prior setup due to WAF problems over complexity, all the extra cables, etc....While I'm sure that 1 sub strategically placed with a single power cord and low profile (high-pass) cable going to it is no problem, I'm also sure that bringing another processor, 2 power cords, and extra set of interconnects, etc....in here will not go over well.

The ultimate seems to be a REL G25MkII (-6db at 14 Hz) though there is something new in the wings from one manufacturer I was asked not to mention yet that works like a REL and is just as musical and impactful but that is in the final design stages.

Hope this helps clarify my potential add of a subwoofer for the R1s...
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  #26  
Old 02-15-2017, 06:31 PM
Nacho Nacho is offline
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Thank's for take your time to your profound answer.
First of all i understand perfectly your position as you have argumented.
I'm not a big fan of subs but your explanation on the R1 bass reponse is very helpful to me.
I can confirm that the R1's are glorious on all frecuencies.
I don't believe i could improve the CR1's bass in the same way of quality adding a sub.
King regards.
PD: I'm still thinking what a big step up you would do going to the M1's mono.
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2017, 07:16 PM
SCAudiophile SCAudiophile is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nacho View Post
Thank's for take your time to your profound answer.
First of all i understand perfectly your position as you have argumented.
I'm not a big fan of subs but your explanation on the R1 bass reponse is very helpful to me.
I can confirm that the R1's are glorious on all frecuencies.
I don't believe i could improve the CR1's bass in the same way of quality adding a sub.
King regards.
PD: I'm still thinking what a big step up you would do going to the M1's mono.
Nacho,...it's great to hear from you, thank you again for your comments. I am still thinking about a second A-02 and briding to mono to get more power and the sound I love so far with the A-02 or stepping up to the M1s and losing a bit of power but gaining speed and even better control. Then there's the price tag <OUCH> of any major upgrade. I'm still getting over my bouts of Lu Flu from last year with Stillpoints, HRS Plates, R1s, WW, Esoteric/Mexcel, etc.....the piggy bank is not oinking any longer <LOL>!!!
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2017, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCAudiophile View Post
Nacho,...it's great to hear from you, thank you again for your comments. I am still thinking about a second A-02 and briding to mono to get more power and the sound I love so far with the A-02 or stepping up to the M1s and losing a bit of power but gaining speed and even better control. Then there's the price tag <OUCH> of any major upgrade. I'm still getting over my bouts of Lu Flu from last year with Stillpoints, HRS Plates, R1s, WW, Esoteric/Mexcel, etc.....the piggy bank is not oinking any longer <LOL>!!!
Mark,
Just get 4 M1's. Power, speed and control concerns solved. Lol

Regards,
Mike
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2017, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mchydro View Post
Mark,
Just get 4 M1's. Power, speed and control concerns solved. Lol

Regards,
Mike
Volume discount; pun intended!
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  #30  
Old 02-15-2017, 09:40 PM
SCAudiophile SCAudiophile is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchydro View Post
mark,
just get 4 m1's. Power, speed and control concerns solved. Lol

regards,
mike
no problem mon!!!

Last edited by SCAudiophile; 02-15-2017 at 09:47 PM.
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