#21
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Thank you for the feedback Tom. Definitely makes me a feel a bit more positive about the repair.
Out of curiosity, what could've caused the blow out? Could something else have failed like a tube (although the KT88s seem fine I can;t test the old AT7s) or something else on the board? I'm hoping to learn a bit through this process as well and I am curious to know what might have caused it in case it's something I need to be aware of in the future or if it's just one of those things. |
#22
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I think it was simply a failed connector.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#23
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That would be welcomed news -- awesome job Tom troubleshooting.
Best Sir, Bob
__________________
Amps:VAC 450iQ Monos in Silver Flake on HRS M3X2-1921's, HRS G7 Footers/G-Links & Sound Anchor Conecoasters. Preamp:VAC Master Preamplifier (Silver Flake) Digital Source: dCS Rossini CD/SACD Transport, Vivaldi APEX DAC, Upsampler Plus & matching Clock (Silver) Analogue Preamp:VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage in Silver Flake with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Valhalla XLR's. Analogue Sources:SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Valhalla TA cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote (original owner since 1974). Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf. Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia in Argento Silver/Black grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit. Power Cables:4 Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps, preamp & DAC. Ansuz Acoustics C2 on Transport & Clock. Power Distribution Bar:Shunyata Everest 8000 w/Omega XC Power Cable. Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2) on dedicated, same panel phase, 20A breakers. Speaker Cables:3M Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on Nordost Sort Lifts. Signal Cables:Nordost Odin XLR's on dCS DAC & Amps. Digital Cables: Nordost Odin 2's, 110 ohm AES/EBU on dCS Transport to DAC. Clock Cables:5 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital Ethernet Cable: WireWorld Platinum 1M Starlight® 8 Twinax Headphones:Vintage Koss Pro IV AA. RCM: Audio Desk PRO Tube Test Gear:Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A, MaxiMatcher Preamp & Space Tech Labs ATT-3.02 tube test sets. Last edited by vintage_tube; 02-14-2018 at 05:40 PM. |
#24
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Quote:
I second this post! Thank you all so much for posting in this thread. It's been really positive and helpful and I've learnt a few things too! Good group of people on this forum |
#25
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Just to be safe before cutting and soldering I'd put a meter on the board to make sure there isn't anything shorted or showing lower impedance. You should be able to compare the resistance on the circuit that's working to the one that failed. You can also some what check the transformer. The meter tests DC resistance and transformers work on AC by nature. But if you check leads that are supposed to be similar and get wildly different reading you know there could be damage.
If you don't own a multimeter I recommend you buy one. You can get a basic Fluke one on Amazon pretty cheap now a days. My concern is there could be thermal damage or other issues lurking. Manufacturers aren't usually happy with home gamer mods and fixes. If there is something else going on you don't want to open a bigger can of worms. |
#26
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The technical engineer at work did say I could borrow his multimeter if I wanted to poke around but I wouldn't even know where to begin in terms of placing the probes, etc. |
#27
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#28
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Just a quick update...I took the MC2102 in to my local dealer on Saturday. I also brought it printouts of the photos I took and the advice posted by Tom in this thread. I was happy that they took it all and said they'd pass it onto the repairman (who's authorised by McIntosh). They seemed to agree that it was not a transformer issue which made me very happy.
Fingers crossed I'll get an update soon as to the extent of the damage. |
#29
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Still waiting on the final diagnosis but preliminary information is that the power supply leaked. Which is somewhat good news because the transformers are fine.
I really miss not having my amp though. Still have no idea when it'll be ready either. |
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