#3981
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#3982
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I'm glad you're such a die hard convert. Best kept, inexpensive secret to improved performance.
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#3983
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Interested in the FMOD filters but I have a question. If my sub's highest crossover is 90Hz, would I still use a 100Hz crossover and not use the sub's internal crossover? FYIW my mains have a specified frequency response 38Hz-25kHz, ±3dB with a 5kHz crossover.
Last edited by nhparrot; 07-27-2017 at 07:52 AM. |
#3984
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Now, instead of reinforcing those low frequencies with the SUB, the filters allow a seamless, continuous bass line across both camps (under and above 100 Hz). The added benefit with the approach is the relief on the flea-powered amp of those nasty last 100 Hz. The end result is better bass, mid-range and highs. To answer your specific question, you can either use a lower std high-pass filter at 50Hz or you can use the std 100 Hz filter and lose representation of frequencies: 91, ... ,100Hz. Both approaches are improvements, as those last 50 of the 100 Hz range are the most difficult. Your choice. I would personally sacrifice those 10 upper Hz and improve the rest. Maybe this supplier can accommodate a custom 90 Hz High Filter? Originally Posted by x3workshop: "I'm glad you're such a die hard convert. Best kept, inexpensive secret to improved performance". Trying to keep learning Last edited by Musica Amantem; 07-27-2017 at 09:18 PM. |
#3985
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One thing I will mention about 'Harrison Labs' the manufacturer and vendor of FMods. He seems to have become rather outspoken regarding his religious and political views and has used his website as a pulpit. Be prepared. |
#3986
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So what you are saying, is use 70Hz high pass FMOD at the Inspire amp input, correct? What crossover point on my sub would you recommend? Since I do have a decibel meter, should I play with the sub crossover points and adjust as needed for the best seamless transition? |
#3987
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Last edited by Musica Amantem; 07-28-2017 at 08:28 AM. |
#3988
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#3989
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#3990
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I'm going to throw an odd scenario at you guys, and see if anybody thinks they know what it is.
I sometimes use my fire-bottle for headphones. I rarely do though because there's a decently loud hum in the right channel (something you can't hear with speakers). I recently moved, and I noticed something peculiar. When the furnace kicks on (same house circuit) the hum goes dead silent. That's pretty cool in my book, since the fire-bottle kicks the ass of my normal headphones amps. Anyway, I'm not sure what the extra load on the house circuit is doing to the electrical properties coming out of the other outlets (of which my fire-bottle is connected). I'm wondering if I can replicate those properties without the furnace being on, to reduce hum to zero? |
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