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  #3901  
Old 06-27-2017, 06:41 PM
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I'm very interested in the notch filter and hi pass filter diagrams. Sounds like fun to work with. As you may recall, I supplemented the low end with powered woofers (up to 250Hz) and up/rear firing tweeters with simple capacitor hi pass at about 14kHz. Seems consistent with both of your impression of what they need.

Can't PM here though. Catch me on the Omega circle? Or post them here?

Thanks....
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Last edited by pstrisik; 06-27-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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  #3902  
Old 06-27-2017, 08:01 PM
Musica Amantem Musica Amantem is online now
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Originally Posted by straitwire View Post
That tall power trans is the original '59 C.G. Conn, it has a 12v filament and is used to power the amp and supply filament voltage as well as B+ thru an 8 pin socket type plug that has a 0A3 mounted in it now
Thanks for the feedback!
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  #3903  
Old 06-28-2017, 12:41 PM
Rosco65 Rosco65 is online now
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Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post
I'm very interested in the notch filter and hi pass filter diagrams. Sounds like fun to work with. As you may recall, I supplemented the low end with powered woofers (up to 250Hz) and up/rear firing tweeters with simple capacitor hi pass at about 14kHz. Seems consistent with both of your impression of what they need.

Can't PM here though. Catch me on the Omega circle? Or post them here?

Thanks....
Another alternative to the speaker-level notch filter is the Bottlehead "The Fix". This is a line-level tone control box (for $75!) that can selectively boost both the bass and treble. I would much rather use passive electronics at the line level than at the speaker level.
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  #3904  
Old 06-28-2017, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rosco65 View Post
Another alternative to the speaker-level notch filter is the Bottlehead "The Fix". This is a line-level tone control box (for $75!) that can selectively boost both the bass and treble. I would much rather use passive electronics at the line level than at the speaker level.
Does look a good option. Not as much fun though!

I'm sure Louis would not endorse the notch filter as equivalent to a passive crossover, Dennis obviously has no issue with it, worth experimenting IMO.
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  #3905  
Old 06-28-2017, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post
Does look a good option. Not as much fun though!

I'm sure Louis would not endorse the notch filter as equivalent to a passive crossover, Dennis obviously has no issue with it, worth experimenting IMO.
I know from my conversations with Louis that he has no issue with inductors, but has an aversion to speaker-level capacitors.

Personally, I have tried notch filters before on a pair of Triangle full range drivers. It killed the sound for me. I would rather explore other means if I am using wide band drivers, including adding additional helper drivers at the top and bottom end, using active bass reinforcement, or choosing better-behaved drivers.

Louis' drivers have their compromises, most apparently in the midbass. The 7" driver that Dennis played with likely had a falling response below 300hz. Its top end is also less extended than the RS5 driver.

I would argue that if we are swapping tubes and capacitors, contouring the response at line level by adding a resistor or two is not that different.
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  #3906  
Old 06-28-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rosco65 View Post
I know from my conversations with Louis that he has no issue with inductors, but has an aversion to speaker-level capacitors.

Personally, I have tried notch filters before on a pair of Triangle full range drivers. It killed the sound for me. I would rather explore other means if I am using wide band drivers, including adding additional helper drivers at the top and bottom end, using active bass reinforcement, or choosing better-behaved drivers.

Louis' drivers have their compromises, most apparently in the midbass. The 7" driver that Dennis played with likely had a falling response below 300hz. Its top end is also less extended than the RS5 driver.

I would argue that if we are swapping tubes and capacitors, contouring the response at line level by adding a resistor or two is not that different.
I agree with your last sentence. But we are talking about very little $ and maybe use of caps I already have to play with a minor DIY project. This is a hobby afterall!
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  #3907  
Old 06-28-2017, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstrisik View Post
I'm very interested in the notch filter and hi pass filter diagrams. Sounds like fun to work with. As you may recall, I supplemented the low end with powered woofers (up to 250Hz) and up/rear firing tweeters with simple capacitor hi pass at about 14kHz. Seems consistent with both of your impression of what they need.

Can't PM here though. Catch me on the Omega circle? Or post them here?

Thanks....


In that Dennis keeps up with this thread I got an email from him today correcting me. The circuit he rigged up for my Omegas is a Contour Network, not a notch filter as I wrote. I will have to research the difference when back from vacation. I will also get you the circuits as well.
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  #3908  
Old 06-29-2017, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BearCityUSA View Post
In that Dennis keeps up with this thread I got an email from him today correcting me. The circuit he rigged up for my Omegas is a Contour Network, not a notch filter as I wrote. I will have to research the difference when back from vacation. I will also get you the circuits as well.
Thanks for sharing and I find your concept/thoughts on this very interesting as I am an Omega owner myself.

When the RS7 driver based speakers first came out there were 3 different flavors of drivers.

(1) the "Vintage" ones which did not have a whizzer cone,
(2) the "Standard" ones that did have a whizzer cone,
(3) the "AlNiCo" ones which also had a whizzer cone.

I was just wondering ... are your RS7 drivers the "Vintage" type (without a whizzer) or the "Standard"/"AlNiCo" type (with a whizzer cone)?

The "Vintage" ones that do not have a whizzer cone roll off a lot earlier (somewhere @ 17kHz) than the "Standard"/"AlNiCo" ones that roll off a bit higher (somewhere @ 20kHz).

I've owned and heard both the "Vintage" and "Standard" versions of the RS7 drivers and much prefer the "Standard" type drivers.
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Last edited by beowulf; 06-29-2017 at 06:38 AM. Reason: .
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