#31
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Wow, monster setup, superb.
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#32
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Hi, the change were NOT SUTTLE! In addition to looking a lot more clean (!) removing all my equipment between the speakers actually gave more more bass. They were deeper, more define and contributed to giving me more body overall. In addition I also got a much improved soundstage and stereo image without the gear in the middle. I had so much stuff in there that my audio racks between the speakers seem to have been acting as some bass trap in my setup. I will post updated picture soon. For now I attached one picture of the equipment racks now in the back (dont have the front pictures on my iPad yet - more to come). I removed my TYPHON from the rack to try it with my amplifiers for now - but That's a different topic all together! Last edited by JCR; 05-30-2014 at 09:29 AM. Reason: missing sentence |
#33
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JCR
Congrats. 6 G1s...I can only drool. Must be the most musical, punchy and immersive bass possible. SR and AQ both have high end neutrik cables for REL. Any thoughts about them ? Cheers Pradeep
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Pradeep Rockport Aviors, Conrad Johnson GAT, Wavac HE 833 V2, Nagra VPS, Lyra Atlas,Miyajima Premium BE Mono and Ortofon Silver Meister SPU, Durrand Talea2 tonearm and Ortofon 309D, TW Acustics AC with Black Night motor + PSU and Garrard 401.Musical Fidelity kw 25 dac + transport.REL G1 x2. Shunyata Triton.Mytek 192 DSD DAC. All cables Cardas Golden Reference. Last edited by Sunnyboy1956; 06-09-2014 at 06:21 AM. Reason: Grammar |
#34
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No. I am still using the original stock signal cable on my subs. I did change all power cord to Shunyata Ztron Python, but kept the small cheap signal cable that came with it. I am actually very curious to try better signal cable for the subs but was debating wether to try one of the brand you mention or make my own using some DIY good quality OCC copper or silver cable.
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#35
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REL now also offers the new 'bassline blue' cable as an upgrade for the thin stock ones.
It has authentic Neutrik Speakons, opposed to the el cheapo chinese copies (which does not even look-alike) which are offered with the Gibraltar. I changed the male connector to authentic Neutrik right away. Still use the stock cables as well, and also planning on doing upgrade here with some substantial screened and shielded cable. This is a nice DIY issue ;-) Have my G1's on FE Ceraball which rest in thick rubber pads, any hardfloor needs rubber pads or else the subs start droning on the hard floor. LOVE my RELs |
#36
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I Would love to take you up on the offer and ask for some advice regarding the connections. I have put the money down on a pair of G1 to supplement my Rockport Avior speakers. I run a pair of burmester 911mk3 monos. How do I connect the wires? Do I connect red to positive spk output, yellow to the negative speaker output and leave the black unconnected? Grateful for some advice. I spoke to REL directly and they recommended I try with red and yellow connected together to positive spk output and leave the black unconnected and see if it works. If it doesn't, they recommend that I connect the black to the negative spk terminal. Would really appreciate some help! Thx Sujay |
#37
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Best Jacques |
#38
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Any benefits compared to the usual connection (red and yellow to plus and black to minus)? |
#39
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A question to those having more than 1 Rel in their setups.
I first acquired two, and recently added a third one with intentions to build a 2+2 (stacked) system. So, now I have two stacked G1s on the left, and one G1 on the right. What I noticed is that the volume level of every sub is different. And it seems not only because of the room, even tactile sensing (touching the woofers while they play) tells you the same thing. For example, I currently ended up with having the left top G1 at gain 15, bottom left G1 at 10, and the right G1 at 12 to make them all play at the same level. Anyone else has had similar experience? Is it normal to have this kind of inconsistency from one sub to another? |
#40
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Hope this helps Cheers Sujay |
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