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  #11  
Old 05-17-2010, 08:32 PM
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2010, 07:18 AM
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I know there are varying opinions on the effect fuses can have on a given component. I am thinking about giving them a try on a few pieces as they are inexpensive and most people do report positive changes.

This is one tweak I have never tried, so we shall see what the verdict is.
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio 1 View Post
I know there are varying opinions on the effect fuses can have on a given component. I am thinking about giving them a try on a few pieces as they are inexpensive and most people do report positive changes.

This is one tweak I have never tried, so we shall see what the verdict is.
Buddy.......I am certain you will be objective, so I am waiting on your review. I am in the skeptic group on this particular tweak. I still would have a hard time paying $30 for a ceramic fuse when I can buy them at the electrical supply house for $2.50 each. If your results prove positive I may give the Buss ceramic fuses a try.
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  #14  
Old 05-19-2010, 05:55 PM
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When Charles Hansen was asked about changing the fuse in the QB-9 I believe he stated that only a portion of the power is traveling through it for protection. If I read into what he said correctly you would have to believe that the fuse has little to do with the sound. I have tried it in my Meridian CDP(sold) but I did not go back to the stock fuse to listen for a difference so I am still skeptical myself.
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  #15  
Old 05-19-2010, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiophilesavant View Post
One has to wonder why you would need an 8 gauge power cord if the tiny strand of wire in the fuse is sufficient to carry the necessary current and voltage to power the component.
I'm in this camp.
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2010, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiophilesavant View Post
One has to wonder why you would need an 8 gauge power cord if the tiny strand of wire in the fuse is sufficient to carry the necessary current and voltage to power the component.
audiophilesavant.......Welcome to Audio Aficionado,

The particular alloys that are used for fuses have very specific melting points based on the diameter and metals used. Current passing through any conductor generates heat, thus when there is an over current condition and the melting point of the fuse is exceed the circuit is opened to stop current and voltage flow.

Larger conductor wire, in the case of audio power cords, is used to offset voltage drop, and is essentially a smoke and mirrors games once you exceed 12 gauge on a 2 meter cord. Is a big fat power cord eye candy? Some think so, but a 10 gauge or 8 gauge power cord will not deliver voltage or current to an amplifier any more efficiently than a 12 gauge power cord will across the small distance of 2 meters.

Manufacturers will market anything they think can be sold for a profit, and will sell it for whatever the market tolerates. Advertising is used to convince perspective buyers that a particular power cord is superior based on whatever claims the manufacturer and advertising agency can dream up, IMO.
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Last edited by jdandy; 01-21-2012 at 12:59 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2010, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
audiophilesavant.......Welcome to Audio Aficionado,

The particular alloys that are used for fuses have very specific melting points based on the diameter and metals used. Current passing through any conductor generates heat, thus when there is and over current condition and the melting point of the fuse is exceed the circuit is opened to stop current and voltage flow.

Larger conductor wire, in the case of audio power cords, is used to offset voltage drop, and is essentially a smoke and mirrors games once you exceed 12 gauge on a 2 meter cord. Is a big fat power cord eye candy? Some think so, but a 10 gauge or 8 gauge power cord will not deliver voltage or current to an amplifier any more efficiently than a 12 gauge power cord will across the small distance of 2 meters.

Manufacturers will market anything they think can be sold for a profit, and will sell it for whatever the market tolerates. Advertising is used to convince a perspective buyers that a particular power cord is superior based on whatever claims the manufacturer and advertising agency can dream up, IMO.


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  #18  
Old 05-20-2010, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
Buddy.......I am certain you will be objective, so I am waiting on your review. I am in the skeptic group on this particular tweak. I still would have a hard time paying $30 for a ceramic fuse when I can buy them at the electrical supply house for $2.50 each. If your results prove positive I may give the Buss ceramic fuses a try.
What's the ratio in cable land from radio shack to high end cables. 10.00 and under and high end cables up to $10,000 for 1 meter pair. For me $10,000 on cables is emperors new clothes land though.

I am more interested in why ceramic fuses came about, really don't think it had much to do with audio, but that is just a guess.

I've already drunk the cool aide on cables, tubes, power cords, and little green men, so fuzes are just a chaser.

Mark
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Last edited by markc2; 05-20-2010 at 08:46 AM.
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  #19  
Old 05-20-2010, 08:57 AM
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markc2.......Ceramic fuses were developed for their durability. Ceramic is much tougher than glass. In some applications (industrial, mobile, military, etc) where high vibration, shock, and/or external heat impact glass fuses, their ceramic counterparts can stand up to the abuse. Glass fuses also have a greater tendency to crack under extreme over current functions when they blow due to the extremely rapid heat rise as the metal alloy melts. Ceramic fuses are immune to this type of damage from heat rise.

For audio applications I have heard it said that a ceramic fuse body is less likely to vibrate than a glass tube fuse body. Whether this explanation has merit or not I cannot say. There are some audiophiles who swear by ceramic fuses, and will use nothing else.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A

Last edited by jdandy; 01-21-2012 at 01:03 AM.
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  #20  
Old 05-20-2010, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
markc2.......Ceramic fuses were developed for their durability. Ceramic is much tougher than glass. In some applications (industrial, mobile, military, etc) where high vibration, shock, and/or external heat impact glass fuses, their ceramic counterparts can stand up to the abuse. Glass fuses also have a greater tendency to crack under extreme over current due functions when the blow due to the extremely rapid heat rise as the metal alloy melts. Ceramic fuses are immune to heat rise.

For audio applications I have heard it said that a ceramic fuse body is less likely to vibrate that a glass tube fuse body. Whether this explanation has merit or not I cannot say. There are some audiophiles who swear by ceramic fuses, and will use nothing else.
Thank you !

Interesting about the immunity to heat rise. I wonder if that could make an audible difference.

Mark
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