Sidewall reflections with near field listening

[bodiezaffa]

Originally Posted by metaphacts

Speakers are too close together relative to listening position among other things.

Its the "amoungst other things" that I seem to be having difficulty with.
Can you recommend someone reputable in the Toronto area? The reviews I’ve read are for US based consultants and my budget isn’t big enough to fly you in.

[klipschfan]

Just a thought...

Remove the absorption panels from behind the speakers and place them at the first reflection points.

[chessman]

bodiezaffa, If the mid-bass is bloated, it will mask your fine detail and make your imaging sound smeared. Do what metaphacts said - listening only to the lower register move your speakers apart in small increments until the speakers lock into each others bass. Use a song with a strong repeating bass line in it. When it sounds live the vibrato of a real bass instead of thud, you have it. I think you are already far enough away from the walls relative to bass, but of course cannot really tell by a description. If the bass just sounds like a one note thud, you are probably too close. If you are not hearing any, you might be too far away, but that is heavily dependent on other things - like speaker size. Once you have the bass right you can work with toe-in. Bill (metaphacts), if I have misstated, please jump in.

[metaphacts]

Originally Posted by chessman

bodiezaffa, If the mid-bass is bloated, it will mask your fine detail and make your imaging sound smeared. Do what metaphacts said - listening only to the lower register move your speakers apart in small increments until the speakers lock into each others bass. Use a song with a strong repeating bass line in it. When it sounds live the vibrato of a real bass instead of thud, you have it. I think you are already far enough away from the walls relative to bass, but of course cannot really tell by a description. If the bass just sounds like a one note thud, you are probably too close. If you are not hearing any, you might be too far away, but that is heavily dependent on other things - like speaker size. Once you have the bass right you can work with toe-in. Bill (metaphacts), if I have misstated, please jump in.

Only thing I would caution is thinking that distance from the wall vs bass performance is a linear function. It's more a series of peaks and valleys based on room geometry and how the speaker pressurizes ("sees") the room. Locking the bass once you are on the proper "bump" can be in extremely small increments.

[jdandy]

Bill.......One quick question on the cups that go under the Amati spike feet. My studio has a poured contrete slab under the carpet pad and commercial grade carpet. I have the speakers placed where the spikes pierce the carpet and go to the concrete slab. Is there an advantage to using the cups under the spikes on the carpet, or am I getting the best support and coupling to the floor with just the spikes?

[Masterlu]

Bill is going to say... "No Cups"

And he is ever so Right!

[jdandy]

Ivan.......Thanks. I think the cups look cool with the spikes sitting in them, but I want to achieve the maximum performance from the Amati Anniversario's. Cool will have to take a back seat to performance if that's the final word.

[Masterlu]

Originally Posted by jdandy

Ivan.......Thanks. I think the cups look cool with the spikes sitting in them, but I want to achieve the maximum performance from the Amati Anniversario's. Cool will have to take a back seat to performance if that's the final word.

Ditto... It's the first thing Bill did when he swept through my place and performed his Magic!

[metaphacts]

Originally Posted by jdandy

Bill.......One quick question on the cups that go under the Amati spike feet. My studio has a poured contrete slab under the carpet pad and commercial grade carpet. I have the speakers placed where the spikes pierce the carpet and go to the concrete slab. Is there an advantage to using the cups under the spikes on the carpet, or am I getting the best support and coupling to the floor with just the spikes?

Dan

Cups are for a floor you want to protect and still get the maximum performance the set up will allow while protecting the floor. On a wood floor for instance, if you don't put something between spike and wood, the spikes will bury themselves in the wood. That will throw off rake and verticality. However on concrete, no cups, as Ivan has already suggested.

[jdandy]

Bill.......Thank you. That is how the Amati's are set up now, and I figured as much. Just thought those nice machined cups looked good.