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JL Audio Ahead of the Curve

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Old 05-13-2013, 05:52 PM
Mike Gillespie Mike Gillespie is offline
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Default Is stock power cord good enough?

I run 2 F112 subs. I have the stock 12 gauge power cords. Who's heard a real advantage with an "audiophile" cord. The guys at JL Audio say it's not necessary. Just the current through a 12 gauge power cord is what's needed.

The guys at my cable company want me to use, of course, a $3,000 power cord.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:06 PM
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Masterlu Masterlu is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gillespie View Post
I run 2 F112 subs. I have the stock 12 gauge power cords. Who's heard a real advantage with an "audiophile" cord. The guys at JL Audio say it's not necessary. Just the current through a 12 gauge power cord is what's needed.

The guys at my cable company want me to use, of course, a $3,000 power cord.
Somewhere between stock and $3000 is the answer.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masterlu View Post
Somewhere between stock and $3000 is the answer.


Good answer Ivan!!

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  #4  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:31 PM
bodiezaffa bodiezaffa is offline
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IMO, the benefits of cord upgrading are irrefutable.

That being said, cost isn't a direct path to improvement.
And with that being said comes the wonderful journey of trial and experiment to find the right balance of price and performance....for you.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:33 PM
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I use modest Shunyata (Diamondback) power cords and they were a noteworthy improvement. They were $150.00 each. I was given the opportunity to try a Nordost Valhalla power cord and must admit it was fantastic. However at $3000.00 I had to pass on such insanity.

I ask myself how can they ask so much for a simple power cord, the only answer I come up with is, because they can, there must be a market for such devices.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:34 PM
Rayooo Rayooo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gillespie View Post
I run 2 F112 subs. I have the stock 12 gauge power cords. Who's heard a real advantage with an "audiophile" cord. The guys at JL Audio say it's not necessary. Just the current through a 12 gauge power cord is what's needed.

The guys at my cable company want me to use, of course, a $3,000 power cord.
Those $4,000 cords just plain smoke those cheapo $3000 cords.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:46 PM
BlueFox BlueFox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gillespie View Post
Who's heard a real advantage with an "audiophile" cord.
I have. Due to the fact that it is so apparent and good I have upgraded all my gear to run with Shunyata Ztron Cobra power cords, except for the amps which have Shunyata Python CX cords. They all plug into a Shunyata Triton power conditioner which uses a Shunyata Ztron Python to the dedicated 20 amp line, which is terminated with a Shunyata outlet.

I cannot praise Shunyata enough.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayooo View Post
Those $4,000 cords just plain smoke those cheapo $3000 cords.
No question about that!
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:03 PM
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And then there is mine . . . . When only the finest will do . . . . . .

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I have a record player and a cd player and some other stuff that sounds pretty good.


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Last edited by AudioNut; 05-13-2013 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:43 PM
junker junker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gillespie View Post
I have the stock 12 gauge power cords. Who's heard a real advantage with an "audiophile" cord. The guys at JL Audio say it's not necessary. Just the current through a 12 gauge power cord is what's needed.

The guys at my cable company want me to use, of course, a $3,000 power cord.
Forget those big $ cords IMO. Better cords have improved conductors, dielectrics, build quality, and usually some sort of RFI filtering. High frequencies attenuate very quickly so you are mostly concerned about reducing interference from local area lighting, fans, cell phones, microwaves, etc.

I really like the basic Kimber PK10 for amps and PK14 for sources etc. Similar cord and Wattgate connectors as their more expensive cords but without the silver or gold plating - and cryo I believe. The regular ones are a great value IMO.

kimber.com/products/powerkords/






That's only half the equation, however... I'd also recommend upgrading your wall outlets (to at least hospital grade) that have better metallurgy and contact pressure. I use the gold version. Silver is the same price as the gold. Silver might be better if you don't mind reseating occasionally. The other option available at a surcharge is Rhodium. Sure it's hard, shiny, and will hold up for many, many cycles but it is actually a comparatively poor conductor so stick with Au or Ag IMO.

wattgate.com/products/381/



wattgate.com/products/381ag/



My amp is fused at 15A and it can draw quite a bit of current so I feel that there might be less losses with the heavier cord and a better connection to your house lines. And the filtering can only help. In fact, I think you could argue this could be more important than doing the amp, but I did my amp first anyway...

Maybe not for subs, but for any mission critical components that draw a reasonable amount of current, the last power related upgrade would have to be the Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme Gold/Silver fuse.


Last edited by junker; 05-14-2013 at 01:34 AM.
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