#1
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integrating subs in stereo system
Still searching for the best way to integrate my two JL F110 Fathoms with my Raidho X1's. Already tried a few methods with mixed results, best one till now was to switch + and - speakercables and measure at my listening position for the lowest sound pressure (dB meter) while turning the phase on the sub.
On the internet I found a conversation that mentioned that all JL subs have a group delay of 9ms at around 80Hz, that would mean that the subs should be placed 10.135 ft in front of the main speakers to get the correct time alignment. (have to say that I don't know what the "group delay" for my main speakers is caused by the xover) Instead I have kept my subs behind the main speakers, and delayed my main speakers through my Devialet 200 (added the distance behind the mains to the 10,135 ft as stated) results are interesting, very precise soundstage, kick bass improved a lot, and the set sounds a lot faster (almost as fast as only running the Raidho X1's) and the most important part, it's more musical. Did anybody use the same method ? I am very interested in the results Olaf
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Moon 700i V2, dCS Rossini, YG Acoustics Hailey, Aurender N10, Ansuz Mainz D2 |
#2
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Have you considered adding the JL Audio CR-1 crossover? I recently added two f212 's to my system with the CR-1, and I love it.
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Main: Wilson Alexia, D'Agostino M400 monoblocks, Ypsilon PST-100 Mk 2 preamp, Helix 1 turntable w/Lyra Etna SL cart and SAT tonearm, Ypsilon VPS-100, dCS Vivaldi DAC, Shunyata Triton v2 & Typhon, Shunyata Cyclops and power cords, Transparent Opus MM2 speaker cables and interconnects, Kubala-Sosna interconnects and power cords. Family Room: Legacy Focus towers, sub, and surrounds, McIntosh MC452, McIntosh C2500, DHC-80.3, Parasound Halo A-51, Sony HAP-Z1ES, AppleTV, OPPO BDP-105D, Sonos, XBox One, XBox 360, Shunyata Triton. Office: KEF LS-50, Decware Zen Mystery Amp, E.A.R. 868, Sony HAP-Z1ES, Sonos. Library: B&W 805 Maserati, JL Audio Fathom f113 sub, twin MC275LE, McIntosh C2500, AMG Viella V12 w/Lyra Etna cart, Sony HAP-Z1ES, Sennheiser HDVD 800 headphone amp/DAC, Sennheiser HD800 cans. Other: VPI Aries 3 w/Triplanar tonearm and Dynavector 17D3 cart, CTC Blowtorch, Vendetta Research SCP-2A, 2 MC30's, 3 MC240's, MC275 Mk V, MC275 Mk VI, 2 Bob Carver Black Beauties, EAR 890, EAR 324, Parasound Halo A21, Parasound Halo JC-1 monoblocks, Parasound Halo JC-3, Pioneer SX-1250, Pioneer SX-5590, Pioneer SX-1980, Thiel CS2.4 speakers. A man's reach should exceed his grasp, else what's there a Heaven for? |
#3
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Olaf, I am impressed with your ingenuity in time aligning the impulse waves of your mains and your subs. Your + and - switch of main leads and turning relative phase on the sub until the bass is dead (and then switching back) is an excellent way to find the right relative phase setting for each individual sub. The gap in the technique is what wpascoe was alluding to: without an active cross-over you cannot split the signal, nor deal with the over-lapping slopes (low from the mains, high from the subs).
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Thx guys, will have a look into your answers, not sure if I can use the cr1, but will check it out again.
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Moon 700i V2, dCS Rossini, YG Acoustics Hailey, Aurender N10, Ansuz Mainz D2 |
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