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JL Audio Ahead of the Curve

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  #21  
Old 04-21-2017, 01:50 PM
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jrsystems jrsystems is offline
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Are you using both the JL subs and the Paradigm sub in the same system?
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Media Room: Raidho D1; JL fathom f113; B&W HTM2; B&W DM602S2; McIntosh C2200; MX134; MC501 (3); MC402; MS300; Oppo BDP-105; dbx 223xs; Thorens; Sonos Connect; Dell PC running Roon server; Harmonic Technology cables; Sony XBR70X850B
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2017, 06:01 PM
Pampero Pampero is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garytn View Post
Thanks for the detailed follow-up. I'm considering a JL and this is helpful.
You're welcome.

I was skeptical about the value of the phase control as I believed a tight integration required delays. That may be but in my situation the phase control and polarity switch came in very useful and it was enjoyable and easy to tune it as well. It makes a difference you can hear.
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Last edited by Pampero; 04-22-2017 at 04:48 PM.
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  #23  
Old 08-15-2017, 11:22 PM
docmd2010 docmd2010 is online now
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i"m also considering a house visit with Barry. His price is actually fairly reasonable for what he is going to do, and the results would probably far exceed the improvement by adding another component, which would cost probably 5-10x more!

If anyone has used Barry in the past, please feel free to PM me, I'd love to hear your feedback.
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2 Channel:

Speakers: Bowers and Wilkins 802D3
Subs: REL 25 x 2; REL G2 x 2
Amps: McIntosh 601 x 2; WW GE 7 SC and IC cabling
Preamp: McIntosh C52
Digital: Esoteric D02x; Aurender N10 8TB;

Analog: VPI Avenger with Ortofon Cadenza Black; Esoteric E-03 phone stage; Audioquest Leopard Tonearm cable; VPI HW 16.5 cleaning machine.
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Center, Rears, and mids speakers: B&W HTM1; B&W CM6 x 2 and B&W CCM 662 x 2; WW cabling
Subs: JL Audio F113v2 X4
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2017, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampero View Post
Thread revival.

I set my single 113 up using my just acquired CR1. I followed Barry's instructions for the most part and achieved a satisfying integration. I did a few things differently in respect to his suggestions. For one, I used a meter to measure the null although it's not that hard to hear it. I found the meter allowed me to achieve greater precision. The null itself was textbook, over 40dB. The controls (phase and level) are hair trigger. Just a little bit wrong one way or the other and you miss the notch.

I also measured the system using the 18 tracks of tone he provides and charted them for my amusement. Here's what I found:

I have a dip (suck out) of about 20dB at 55Hz ( room related). It's quite narrow. I don't actually hear it, but it can be seen in the measurement. It affects the adjacent bands (50Hz and 60 Hz) which also scope a few extra dB down from ideal. Other than that, my system is flat plus or minus 2dB from 120 to 65 Hz (1/6th octave smoothed if I calculate by the provided tones) and plus or minus 3db (except for that suck out centered at 50 Hz) to 40Hz. After that, it rolls off a bit (actually looks like a shelf) and is down around 15 dB by 20Hz. It's interesting to me because it doesn't sound like it's rolled off nearly that much. I played a bit with the damping control for the woofer (I added 2dB) and oddly that seemed to move the whole shooting match up a couple of dB. I still have to fine tune the crossover frequencies to see what if anything might help since things are somewhat interactive, it seems. Of course, I can just add more gain at either the sub or via the "mix" control on the crossover as the bottom octave looks pretty much like a shelf. I'm reluctant to screw around too much because it sounds great, not lacking for bass to my taste.

The low octave measurements don't convey how tuneful and solid the low end is even with only one sub and somewhat less exciting measurements below 50Hz . The low end is really crisp, which I gather is the point. I have also gained a few dB of additional headroom on the high end, and you can hear the clarity and ease that relieving the main amp of low frequency duty has added. It's easy to see because of the meters on my Mc amp, which also come in handy for checking reference levels at 85 dB and then comparing them to the maximum levels on the disc. I am barely into the meat of the sub's amplifier, tons of headroom there.

It gets better. Imaging, which has always been good with the Salons, is even better now. A wonderful phantom center is even more evident. I used the pink noise track to confirm that, but it was always a strong point for this rig. By the way, I plugged the Salons' ports as suggested. That was an article of faith for me, but it works as advertised. I can see spending a lot of time futzing around with this thing!


What kind of meter did you use. Thanks

R
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