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  #41  
Old 01-25-2020, 01:25 PM
Giovanni68 Giovanni68 is offline
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Hello Pete,

first and foremost thank you again for your reply and suggestion, sure, I will try and get some foam once I get to Napoli and replace those slices floating therein...

Pete I would have liked to contact you privately not to make of your thread my thread but it seems I have not enough permissions to send private messages and as such apologise me if I occupy your space but since I need to work on my crossovers I need your help to find out about caps and resistors to be replaced, actually one of the two speakers sound is not as loud as the other and then the networks job is almost a priority.

I found out the unmarked cap on the midrange should be a 3mF one, for all the others I have the values as by the JBL N220 specs, what I miss is the Voltage, some are marked 100V but I didn't look at the big yellow ones (the standing ones to make it simpler to identify them) what their Voltage should be and also what kind of caps should I look for, I am no tech at all, can use a soldering station and a tester but that's almost all... polyester, electrolytic... which ones are the right ones?

I know you had to couple two to match the right value for three of them, would you mind sharing which ones and what did you get to reach the right value?

Also, do you think resistors is a must-do or could I start with capacitors to bring them back to life and then move on once I get more comfy with the welding iron?

Thank you so much Pete and apologise again to rip your space.

Have a great week end


Giovanni
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  #42  
Old 01-25-2020, 03:32 PM
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Vintage Pete Vintage Pete is offline
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Originally Posted by Giovanni68 View Post
Hello Pete,

first and foremost thank you again for your reply and suggestion, sure, I will try and get some foam once I get to Napoli and replace those slices floating therein...

Pete I would have liked to contact you privately not to make of your thread my thread but it seems I have not enough permissions to send private messages and as such apologise me if I occupy your space but since I need to work on my crossovers I need your help to find out about caps and resistors to be replaced, actually one of the two speakers sound is not as loud as the other and then the networks job is almost a priority.

I found out the unmarked cap on the midrange should be a 3mF one, for all the others I have the values as by the JBL N220 specs, what I miss is the Voltage, some are marked 100V but I didn't look at the big yellow ones (the standing ones to make it simpler to identify them) what their Voltage should be and also what kind of caps should I look for, I am no tech at all, can use a soldering station and a tester but that's almost all... polyester, electrolytic... which ones are the right ones?

I know you had to couple two to match the right value for three of them, would you mind sharing which ones and what did you get to reach the right value?

Also, do you think resistors is a must-do or could I start with capacitors to bring them back to life and then move on once I get more comfy with the welding iron?

Thank you so much Pete and apologise again to rip your space.

Have a great week end


Giovanni
Giovanni.....I'll help you as best as I can here. First, I wouldn't worry as much about the resistors; I just decided to replace them while I was at it.

I used polypropylene film/foil caps, most were ordered from Parts Express, the ones I couldn't find there in the grade I wanted I ordered from Sonic Craft.

The caps I paired were as follows:

To achieve the 20uf caps (stand-up caps) I connected (2) 10uf, 800V Metalyzed polypropylene caps together in parallel.

To achieve the 6uf, 100V caps (across the terminal strips), I connected (2) 3uf, 200 VDC caps together in parallel.

To achieve the 16.5uf (stand-up cap), I connected (1) 15uf, 800V Metalyzed polypropylene foil cap together with (1) 1.5uf, 800V Metalyzed polypropylene cap in parallel.

All of the other values I was able to obtain as standard parts from either Parts Express or Sonic Craft.

The ones I couldn't find from parts express (at that time) were the 3uf, 200VDC and the 8uf, 200VDC caps, which I ordered from Sonic Craft.

You may not need to use more than one supplier, depending on what grade (quality) caps you choose. One supplier may possibly have everything you need.

Good luck!
__________________
Pete

No. 35


Main System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint ultra minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint ultra minis, MS750 Music Server on Rollerblock Jr's, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect

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Last edited by Vintage Pete; 01-26-2020 at 02:06 PM.
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  #43  
Old 03-18-2020, 11:58 AM
Giovanni68 Giovanni68 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage Pete View Post
Giovanni.....I'll help you as best as I can here. First, I wouldn't worry as much about the resistors; I just decided to replace them while I was at it.

I used polypropylene film/foil caps, most were ordered from Parts Express, the ones I couldn't find there in the grade I wanted I ordered from Sonic Craft.

The caps I paired were as follows:

To achieve the 20uf caps (stand-up caps) I connected (2) 10uf, 800V Metalyzed polypropylene caps together in parallel.

To achieve the 6uf, 100V caps (across the terminal strips), I connected (2) 3uf, 200 VDC caps together in parallel.

To achieve the 16.5uf (stand-up cap), I connected (1) 15uf, 800V Metalyzed polypropylene foil cap together with (1) 1.5uf, 800V Metalyzed polypropylene cap in parallel.

All of the other values I was able to obtain as standard parts from either Parts Express or Sonic Craft.

The ones I couldn't find from parts express (at that time) were the 3uf, 200VDC and the 8uf, 200VDC caps, which I ordered from Sonic Craft.

You may not need to use more than one supplier, depending on what grade (quality) caps you choose. One supplier may possibly have everything you need.

Good luck!
Ciao Pete,

hello everybody, how is it going over there? You might well know what is going on in Italy, we are all stuck, in my personal case our small island is still (...) safe but it so much feels like a golden jail, the forecast is that by March 25th we should (...) reach the peak of infections then we'll see how it goes, at this moment in time I can report that number of recovered patients is higher and higher so let's stay in (ALL OF US YOU INCLUDED) and avoid being in touch with other people, let's preserve our beloved weak ones and, guys, let me tell you, I am that kind of person who can't stand authority at all, never, always had issues at school, during my service in the navy etc but this time I am doing no much effort to respect the rules because things are not gonna be the same so the earliest we solve the issue the soonest we'll start the new cycle.

Pete, I pulled down the list of capacitors and, as you stated above, I found out that besides the 2mF and 3mF all the others gotta be parallel to achieve the desired values.

I found a few retailers here in the EU and emailed two of them along with the list, a pic of the crossover and one of the JBL schematics and they both reported some of the caps to be electrolytic, in this case they speak about the "smaller" which I suppose being the 2mF, 6mF and 36mF (I thought the 36mF would be big, am I wrong somewhere?).

Here one of the email replies:

"The 100V capacitors are bi-polar electrolytes. These are usually chosen when the performance of the capacitor is not that critical or if (very) large capacitance values are required (and the costs weigh out the performance). I would suggest to replace only the electrolytes with electrolytes."

And here the other one:

"So there is a mix of electrolytic bipolar and film caps. The smaller are electrolytic which you should swap for the same type so have a look at these

Don`t worry about using the 50V version that is plenty for this application. You may need to use 2 in parallel to get the right capacitance.

eg. 36uF - use 33uF and 3.3uF in parallel, the 6uF is more difficult, just use a 5.6uF you really won`t notice the difference.

Think about using the Clarity Cap 250V ESAs

again you might need to put 2 in parallel to get the value you need."


I am a little confused now,

Pete I won't want to pollute your thread so if there is a way to connect to you through PM please let me know, I am not allowed here probably because of my early posting history so again accept my apologies for adding more to your beautiful tale.

Thank you and be all safe


Giovanni
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