Egg cartons

[jdandy]

Originally Posted by crwilli

Nice dorm!

[buggs1a]

What is dead sound? Like egg cartons will deaden the sound. Or is that wrong?

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by buggs1a

What is dead sound? Like egg cartons will deaden the sound. Or is that wrong?

Buggs1a....Sufficient reflection is key in creating a natural sound balance. Overdamping the room will have a dulling effect on the sound, resulting in a lifeless presentation.

[buggs1a]

Thanks Douglas.
Would egg cartons do harm to sound compared to something else? Is egg cartons too dead?

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by buggs1a

Thanks Douglas.
Would egg cartons do harm to sound compared to something else? Is egg cartons too dead?

Buggs1a...Not if you use it sparingly. Depending on the nature of your room, and provided you paint them lining it behind each speaker as well as between the speakers and a section of wall behind your listening room, could have very positive results. It's when you cover the entire room that you will run into problems.

I am using a series of small wine racks made of wood, some even mounted on the wall to create required diffusion. It looks good as well. A friend placed 3 of these wine racks on the floor between his speakers (about 2 meters behind the speakers) and the improvement in the sound is jaw-dropping. The racks are about 60cm wide, 40cm high and 50cm deep. I use 7 in my room after a lot of experimentation.

[buggs1a]

How can I post pictures from my iPhone? I have a few of my room.

[hobie1dog]

As been said before in your other thread, they do not have any mass to them. For your needs/wants, it will be a complete waste of time and money.

Let's go back to basics. If have two rooms, one with 120db of music in it. There is a shared wall that you can interchange different materials for the wall. First material is cardboard, which you get 10 db of sound reduction, now down to 110db in the second room. Replace the cardboard with drywall, now you get 30db of reduction, now down to 90db. Now replace the standard 5/8" drywall with 1" thick Quietrock drywall and you get 70db of reduction, which gets you down to 50db in the second room. If you tear it off and put up resilient channel on the wall studs (which will act like a spring and decouple the drywall), then you stop the structure-borne noise, and resilient channel wiil add another 10db of reduction. Put the Quietrock back on and now you only have 40db in your room, plus the bonus of the resilient channel eliminating most of the upstairs units foot traffic noisiest (the structure transferred noise)

Tired of finger pecking all this out. Hope this helps you understand what is necessary to control sound.

[chessman]

Originally Posted by hobie1dog

As been said before in your other thread, they do not have any mass to them. For your needs/wants, it will be a complete waste of time and money.

Let's go back to basics. If have two rooms, one with 120db of music in it. There is a shared wall that you can interchange different materials for the wall. First material is cardboard, which you get 10 db of sound reduction, now down to 110db in the second room. Replace the cardboard with drywall, now you get 30db of reduction, now down to 90db. Now replace the standard 5/8" drywall with 1" thick Quietrock drywall and you get 70db of reduction, which gets you down to 50db in the second room. If you tear it off and put up resilient channel on the wall studs (which will act like a spring and decouple the drywall), then you stop the structure-borne noise, and resilient channel wiil add another 10db of reduction. Put the Quietrock back on and now you only have 40db in your room, plus the bonus of the resilient channel eliminating most of the upstairs units foot traffic noisiest (the structure transferred noise)

Tired of finger pecking all this out. Hope this helps you understand what is necessary to control sound.

Good post!

[Mikado463]

Originally Posted by hobie1dog

As been said before in your other thread, they do not have any mass to them. For your needs/wants, it will be a complete waste of time and money.

Let's go back to basics. If have two rooms, one with 120db of music in it. There is a shared wall that you can interchange different materials for the wall. First material is cardboard, which you get 10 db of sound reduction, now down to 110db in the second room. Replace the cardboard with drywall, now you get 30db of reduction, now down to 90db. Now replace the standard 5/8" drywall with 1" thick Quietrock drywall and you get 70db of reduction, which gets you down to 50db in the second room. If you tear it off and put up resilient channel on the wall studs (which will act like a spring and decouple the drywall), then you stop the structure-borne noise, and resilient channel wiil add another 10db of reduction. Put the Quietrock back on and now you only have 40db in your room, plus the bonus of the resilient channel eliminating most of the upstairs units foot traffic noisiest (the structure transferred noise)

Tired of finger pecking all this out. Hope this helps you understand what is necessary to control sound.

Originally Posted by chessman

Good post!

Actually I think Hobie's post is somewhat confusing for it's more than just 'controlling sound' that we're talking about. Rather it's about the control of 'sound' within a given room as it relates to various frequencies.

Example .....first point of reflection requires a completely different material/construction than does that for bass trapping and diffusion is a different control altogether.

[chessman]

Originally Posted by Mikado463

Actually I think Hobie's post is somewhat confusing for it's more than just 'controlling sound' that we're talking about. Rather it's about the control of 'sound' within a given room as it relates to various frequencies.

Example .....first point of reflection requires a completely different material/construction than does that for bass trapping and diffusion is a different control altogether.

I agree, kinda. I took Hobie to be discussing sound isolation (i.e., the prevention of sound to the outside of the source room). Now if one is talking about sound reproduction accuracy within the room at the listening position, I agree with you entirely. To make it more confusing, I think the OP was asking about preventing sound from outside coming into the room, which I think would require "floating" a room within a room and "sealing" it, which has been already been pointed out to be unrealistic in a rental situation.