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Esoteric Audio World Class cost no object Electronics |
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#81
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In my own system after testing many variants of word-clock and master clocking, the best sounding setup to me is all 10 mHz with a 50-ohm BNC when the tap dictates 50-ohm. Do NOT mix impedance (the 'better' example above) as that does affect sound-staging and imaging accuracy...I know there are a lot of opinions floating around about this but late last year through Spring of this year, a number of people did a proper blind test mixing all the variants of impedance on the tap, cable impedance, etc...and it turns out the differences are not only perceivable, they are substantial. See my other post this morning on this topic.... |
#82
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Any clock with an oven-stabilized oscillator of any kind, either Quartz (OCXO) or Rubidium must (my opinion) be left on 24/7. As it is, these clocks take at least 10-30 minutes to truly reach thermal equilibrium and initial good performance levels. Based upon my listening and owning the Esoteric G-0s (Rb type), G-03x (OCXO type) and now on my 2nd owned Cybershaft (all OCXO) with testing of 3 additional Cybershaft units (1 PROD and 2 pre-PROD prototypes, all OCXO), it's even more than that. Once the clock's OCXO reaches initial thermal equilibrium, it continues to mature for a few hours to where it will definitely sound better later that day and the next until it hits its true steady-state best behavior. When I power on my system for some time now, I will always turn on power conditioners and then a few minutes later, the clock and then walk away until well after the OCXO oven monitor's LED on the front lights up and the clock can get moving towards it equilibrium. When I am a bit more patient, I leave the clock run for 1-2 hours before I power up anything else and let the D-02 and P-02 achieve master-sync. When I do, I notice that the components achieve sync in 1-3 seconds versus a longer period (10-15 seconds) when I am more impatient and only wait for the oven monitor to light up. When its all said and done though, it's all about the sound; my system will sound better many hours after the clock is on and everything is giving time to recharge and stabilize. In the studio realm or in high-tech video or microwave/other communications infrastructures where master clocking is used extensively, they virtually never turn the clocks off. Please bear that in mind... My 2 cents... There was another question here or on another thread regarding using of a GPS-disciplined oscillator instead of another master clock technology. GPSDO is useful when you have a much lower precision OCXO or other mechanism; then GPSDO or other 1pps master-sync regulators are of use. For my money, I would not strap a GPSDO implementation to an Esoteric G-02X or G-01 or other word clock; I'd go for a full-blown 10 mHz OCXO-based approach with the lowest phase noise possible (and therefore lowest jitter) to provide a true 10 mHz master. There are several great choices in the industry for this,.... With respect to the Grandioso G1 which is all 10 mHz to begin with, I don't think it is necessary to have an external 10 mHz master clock. It would be useful to see the actual phase noise and Allen Variance data for the G1 (and G-01) because PPM/PPB is the red herring in the clock industry and it matters little if the phase noise is high at 1, 10 and 100, but that notwithstanding, you would probably need one hell of a 10 mHz master clock to truly make an argument for strapping a master clock onto what is already itself a perfectly good master implementation (G1). Again my 2 cents.... |
#83
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#84
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- a good quality power cord (Elrod, Shunyata, Isotek Elite or OPTIMUM, WW) - HRS DPX Damping Plate - Stillpoint UltraSS footers with Ultra Bases - impedance matched tees and terminators on a great 50ohm cable (Eosteric Mexcel or Shunyata Alpha or Sigmas) - Composite Audio CF2010 platforms |
#85
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My G-02x outputs 10mhz on the 75-ohm tap (as well as fixed taps at 50-ohm), so it's unclear to me whether there is any advantage to using a 50-ohm at all. Seems like not. |
#86
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Marc -- ask yourself this question -- why does the manufacturer take the time to stencil on the rear of your K-01X the output impedance? There has to be a reason besides looking pretty.
Ordering couple buckets -- Best Sir, Bob
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Amps:VAC 450iQ Monos in Silver Flake on HRS M3X2-1921's, HRS G7 Footers/G-Links & Sound Anchor Conecoasters. Preamp:VAC Statement (on order) (Silver Flake) Digital Source: dCS Rossini CD/SACD Transport, Vivaldi APEX DAC, Upsampler Plus & matching Clock (Silver) Analogue Preamp:VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage in Silver Flake with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Valhalla XLR's. Analogue Sources:SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Odin 2 Tone Arm Cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote (original owner since 1974). Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf. Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia V (on order in Ferrari Argento Silver/Parchment grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit). Power Cables:4 Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps, preamp & DAC. Ansuz Acoustics C2 on Transport & Clock. Power Distribution:Ansuz Mainz D3 Distributor & Ansuz Mainz C2 1M Power Cable Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2) on dedicated, same panel phase, 20A breakers. Speaker Cables:2M Nordost Odin 2 Supreme Reference on Nordost Sort Lifts. (on Order) Signal Cables:Nordost Odin XLR's on dCS DAC & Amps. Digital Cables: Nordost Odin 2's, 110-ohm AES/EBU on dCS Transport to DAC. Clock Cables:5 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital Ethernet Cable: WireWorld Platinum 1M Starlight® 8 Twinax Headphones:Vintage Koss Pro IV AA. RCM: Audio Desk PRO Tube Test Gear:Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A, MaxiMatcher Power Amp & Preamp & Space Tech Labs ATT-3.02 tube test sets. |
#87
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Besides, the jack on the K-01x is 75-ohm, not 50. Last edited by 2fastdriving; 10-26-2017 at 02:04 PM. |
#88
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I got it now --misread the post.
Best Sir, Bob
__________________
Amps:VAC 450iQ Monos in Silver Flake on HRS M3X2-1921's, HRS G7 Footers/G-Links & Sound Anchor Conecoasters. Preamp:VAC Statement (on order) (Silver Flake) Digital Source: dCS Rossini CD/SACD Transport, Vivaldi APEX DAC, Upsampler Plus & matching Clock (Silver) Analogue Preamp:VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage in Silver Flake with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Valhalla XLR's. Analogue Sources:SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Odin 2 Tone Arm Cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote (original owner since 1974). Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf. Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia V (on order in Ferrari Argento Silver/Parchment grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit). Power Cables:4 Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps, preamp & DAC. Ansuz Acoustics C2 on Transport & Clock. Power Distribution:Ansuz Mainz D3 Distributor & Ansuz Mainz C2 1M Power Cable Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2) on dedicated, same panel phase, 20A breakers. Speaker Cables:2M Nordost Odin 2 Supreme Reference on Nordost Sort Lifts. (on Order) Signal Cables:Nordost Odin XLR's on dCS DAC & Amps. Digital Cables: Nordost Odin 2's, 110-ohm AES/EBU on dCS Transport to DAC. Clock Cables:5 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital Ethernet Cable: WireWorld Platinum 1M Starlight® 8 Twinax Headphones:Vintage Koss Pro IV AA. RCM: Audio Desk PRO Tube Test Gear:Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A, MaxiMatcher Power Amp & Preamp & Space Tech Labs ATT-3.02 tube test sets. |
#89
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I cannot advise as to whether you should utilize the 75-ohm or 50-ohm taps on the G-02X if you want 10 mHz as I've not tested that clock except to say you must match the impedance the boxes you clock will expect; that seems to be 75-ohm with the K-01X. |
#90
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Big +1 on this...matching impedance of cable to input and output on the circuit does make a difference and I've heard it... |
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