MaxiMatcher 2 and MaxiPreamp 2 tube testers

[Masterlu]

Originally Posted by sonduciel

I gathered that from previous posts. I tried to find a way to PM you, but I don't seem to have that capability in the UserCP, or at least I cannot find it. I would be interested in talking to you about these testers, especially the MaxiMatcher 2. I'm considering picking one up. Please PM me, or tell me how this can work. Thanks.

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[miner]

Being a subscriber yields benefits greater than XX fold when using Ivan as your point-of-sale retailer. I have not completed a great number of transactions with Mssr. Messer, yet my savings have far outweighed my annual subscription outlay.

[robal]

I recently acquired Maxi-Matcher and Maxi-Preamp testers. There is no real guidance from the company as to what constitutes a "match" when comparing tubes on these testers. What do users consider to be indicative of a "match"?

[Masterlu]

robal… Welcome to AA!

[mulveling]

Originally Posted by robal

I recently acquired Maxi-Matcher and Maxi-Preamp testers. There is no real guidance from the company as to what constitutes a "match" when comparing tubes on these testers. What do users consider to be indicative of a "match"?

Measurements within a max differential of 10% or better are typically considered a "tight" match. E.g. a pair of 12ax7 with triodes (two triodes per tube) measuring mu/gain of 91 / 95 and 100 / 93 are solid. 15% is generally considered fine, and you can move up to a 20% window and it should still work ok, if you can't fine better in the meantime. I believe Upscale's platinum matching level claims "10% or better".

When you get to 30% or more differentials, that's when you'll start hearing weird stuff including (but not limited to) L/R channel balance issues. I've gotten stuck with small tube pairs like this a couple times, and they are useless - significant sonic impact. Power tubes are generally configured in push/pull pairs, and a large mismatch in these pairs will cause distortion - probably best to aim for 10% or better (per pair) here (the pair matching being more important than overall matching).

[FreddieFerric]

Now that I'm getting back into tubes I may need to pick up one each of these testers, but here's my question...

Can this power tube tester find the bad tube in a quad set of TungSol 6550's. Only one is bad, but which one?

I removed all of them and replaced with a quad set of Svetlana 6550's which I find sound a tad bit more lean and cool than the TungSol's did.

Any ideas on this?

For the record, I never really got out of tubes, it's just that I don't currently have any tube gear in my main listening room. That will soon change when the MC 1502 arrives.

[Masterlu]

Originally Posted by FreddieFerric

Now that I'm getting back into tubes I may need to pick up one each of these testers, but here's my question...

Can this power tube tester find the bad tube in a quad set of TungSol 6550's. Only one is bad, but which one?

I removed all of them and replaced with a quad set of Svetlana 6550's which I find sound a tad bit more lean and cool than the TungSol's did.

Any ideas on this?

For the record, I never really got out of tubes, it's just that I don't currently have any tube gear in my main listening room. That will soon change when the MC 1502 arrives.

Yes, these tube testers will diagnose the bad tube.

[FreddieFerric]

Originally Posted by Masterlu

Yes, these tube testers will diagnose the bad tube.

Thank you my good man!

[mulveling]

Originally Posted by FreddieFerric

Now that I'm getting back into tubes I may need to pick up one each of these testers, but here's my question...

Can this power tube tester find the bad tube in a quad set of TungSol 6550's. Only one is bad, but which one?

I removed all of them and replaced with a quad set of Svetlana 6550's which I find sound a tad bit more lean and cool than the TungSol's did.

Any ideas on this?

For the record, I never really got out of tubes, it's just that I don't currently have any tube gear in my main listening room. That will soon change when the MC 1502 arrives.

Yep - that's one of the primary purposes for a tube tester.

That said, how do you know one is bad from a set, but not specifically which one? Were they all in an amp when the main fuse blew?

Some amps have per-tube fuses. Some amps have per-tube status indicators. Sometimes a bad tube will go cherry red plate before totally failing (and possibly blowing a fuse). Once had a EH KT90 "catastrophically" fail: a mini fireworks show on that one tube followed by a pillar of smoke (that being the resistor it carbonized) and THEN a blown main fuse (lol).

I've also seen the scary quick "flash" on a new KT120 that continued on working just fine. Apparently caused by a small impurity or bit of debris that can burn off randomly during operation. The getter should absorb any off-gassing from this. Bigger flashes could be a temporary short that can pop a fuse or trip any "sentry guard" circuitry. Such a tube "might" be ok when re-tested or run again.

But over 15+ years of audio tube usage now, I'd say the incidents have been quite rare. For the most part tubes & quality tube gear is extremely reliable. Still a good idea to have both of these testers (I have the maxi preamp but not the maxi matcher tester - yet).