Bi-amping 802D

[kfr01]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

What are you using now for an amp? If you were thinking of initially upgrading to 600 watts from a lower wattage amp(s) and then bi-amping then going to 600 watts may be all you want plus it would save you a lot of money by not going to the 1000+ watt monsters. I do know this, to get a pair of either the 28B-SST's or MC1.2kw's new is more than your speakers are worth and this is my opnion of course but I think spending more on amps then the speakers is silly because they contribute FAR less to the over sound you hear then the speakers do and maybe it's not more power that you need but are really searching for a sound your 802's can't deliver for you. An upgrade to 800's might be in order or a switch over to another manufacturer. Just a thought.

good post

[Fido]

Good point Rod and I actually will be auditioning the new Bryston Model T speakers soon. So you may be onto something there.
I had one 600wpc 14B SST and fell onto an opportunity to get another identical amp so I thought id try the biamping. I know I can resell the amp and lose no money so its all good.

[Rod#S]

Yeah you gotta love the Bryston resale value, that 20 year warranty goes a long ways.

Interesting that you are going to look into the Bryston speakers because the Model T's come in 3 flavor's and one that may strike your interest, especially in b-amping is the competely active cross over model.

I think James Tanner from Bryston has mentioned he has been using two 6B-SST's (1 per speaker I think it is) when demoing the speakers so if you want more power you could buy one more 14B-SST and have 6x600watts rather than the 6x300 watts of the 6B's.

[mbovaird]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

Yeah you gotta love the Bryston resale value, that 20 year warranty goes a long ways.

Interesting that you are going to look into the Bryston speakers because the Model T's come in 3 flavor's and one that may strike your interest, especially in b-amping is the competely active cross over model.

I think James Tanner from Bryston has mentioned he has been using two 6B-SST's (1 per speaker I think it is) when demoing the speakers so if you want more power you could buy one more 14B-SST and have 6x600watts rather than the 6x300 watts of the 6B's.

+1 for Bryston. If I was looking for a big daddy amp, it would come down to Bryston and Classe. Likely the Bryston 28's or Classe 600's. James' efforts here on AA have been awesome. I'm sure he can help you out and offer some good advice.

[Fido]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

Yeah you gotta love the Bryston resale value, that 20 year warranty goes a long ways.

Interesting that you are going to look into the Bryston speakers because the Model T's come in 3 flavor's and one that may strike your interest, especially in b-amping is the competely active cross over model.

I think James Tanner from Bryston has mentioned he has been using two 6B-SST's (1 per speaker I think it is) when demoing the speakers so if you want more power you could buy one more 14B-SST and have 6x600watts rather than the 6x300 watts of the 6B's.

Yup....already aware of the active model Ts and have been talking to James. So we'll see....

[RebelMan]

Originally Posted by Fido

God bless me I was born with a hot rodder's(or is it American) mentality that more is better and too much is just right. Next stop....either a pair of Bryston 28B SSTs or the big Mc 1.2's. ..and on we go

I get the point, but more really isn't better. A (2012) Boss 302 will dust a (2012) GT-500 on the strip and the track.

If you want a change look at your pre-amplifier. Next to speakers it's the single most important link in the chain.

[RebelMan]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

I do know this, to get a pair of either the 28B-SST's or MC1.2kw's new is more than your speakers are worth and this is my opnion of course but I think spending more on amps then the speakers is silly because they contribute FAR less to the over sound you hear then the speakers do and maybe it's not more power that you need but are really searching for a sound your 802's can't deliver for you.

Precisely. I would even go so far to say speakers are the most important, surpassing the room even. Heresy you say?! Not even. Typical rooms are not bare and many domestic objects are already helping to reflect, diffuse and absorb sound waves. A little passive tweaking will get more from the speakers than an amplifier "upgrade" will and the results can be astounding.

[RebelMan]

Originally Posted by mbovaird

+1 for Bryston. If I was looking for a big daddy amp, it would come down to Bryston and Classe. Likely the Bryston 28's or Classe 600's. James' efforts here on AA have been awesome. I'm sure he can help you out and offer some good advice.

Bryston rocks though I have found their systems more magical with other speakers like Totem and PMC than I have with B&W. They have often showcased them with Thiels but I have observed mixed results. The Model T's are an intriguing departure though. I am hoping they exercise them next week.

[Fido]

Originally Posted by RebelMan

I get the point, but more really isn't better. A (2012) Boss 302 will dust a (2012) GT-500 on the strip and the track.

If you want a change look at your pre-amplifier. Next to speakers it's the single most important link in the chain.

Preamp is great. I love that. I already have the amps. Its done. I am looking at speakers and have an audition lined up as soon as the speakers arrive at the dealer.

Now to the hot rodding ...A Boss 302 weighs 3632 lbs and has 444hp which equals 8.19lb per hp. The GT500 weighs more at 3845 but has 662hp which is 5.8 lbs per hp. The ONLY way that Boss will beat that GT500 at the drag strip is if the GT500 is on crapp street tires and the driver just had a stroke. Put a set of street slicks on both and the 302 will be suckin tailpipe ALL DAY .
Thats why I ride a 2012 Kawasaki ZX-14R. She weighs 582 lbs with a full tank of gas(which you never do at the track) and she has at least 200hp(190+hp to the tire on chassis dyno). Thats 2.9 lbs per hp. All this for half the price or less than either of those two Fords.
In perspective the bike will run 1/4 miles in 9.5 at 150ish mph. The Boss will run low 12's at 116 and the GT500 11.6 at 125mph. All this on crapp street tires.

The last car I built was a 98 Z28. I put a custom 402 LS1 engine with ported heads and a custom cam(and MUCH more). That car put 510 naturally aspirated hp to the tires on a chassis dyno and the car weighed 3400 lbs. I built this car back in 01 or so before everybody(including GM) was doing it. The best I ran in the Z28 was 10.85 at 127 mph. I spent about 4 or 5 times more money on that Z28 than the bike.

So more power is almost always better if you can hook it up. If it's in a smooth controllable package like my unbelievable bike so much the better. That's what I'm lookin for in my stereo without a spending contest. Bang for buck is my motto.
Anyway back to our regularly scheduled programming

[RebelMan]

Originally Posted by Fido

Preamp is great. I love that. I already have the amps. Its done.

Thought you were bored.

Now to the hot rodding ...A Boss 302 weighs 3632 lbs and has 444hp which equals 8.19lb per hp. The GT500 weighs more at 3845 but has 662hp which is 5.8 lbs per hp. The ONLY way that Boss will beat that GT500 at the drag strip is if the GT500 is on crapp street tires and the driver just had a stroke. Put a set of street slicks on both and the 302 will be suckin tailpipe ALL DAY .

You missed the point. Unless you were planning to mod amplifiers you're not making an appropriate analogy. Besides you are referencing the 2013 GT-500 which incurred some (Boss) refinement so you would be prudent not to bet on those slicks.

Thats why I ride a 2012 Kawasaki ZX-14R. She weighs 582 lbs with a full tank of gas(which you never do at the track) and she has at least 200hp(190+hp to the tire on chassis dyno). Thats 2.9 lbs per hp. All this for half the price or less than either of those two Fords.

I chose not to play russian roulette so crotch rockets are out but I can appreciate the PTWR. It's a similar case for the 802 and a 600 watt amplifier. Nice to have high PTWR but you don't need it for optimal performance. You could have done equally well with half and for less money, which you say is your objective.

The last car I built was a 98 Z28. I put a custom 402 LS1 engine with ported heads and a custom cam(and MUCH more). That car put 510 naturally aspirated hp to the tires on a chassis dyno and the car weighed 3400 lbs. I built this car back in 01 or so before everybody(including GM) was doing it. The best I ran in the Z28 was 10.85 at 127 mph. I spent about 4 or 5 times more money on that Z28 than the bike.

So more power is almost always better if you can hook it up. If it's in a smooth controllable package like my unbelievable bike so much the better. That's what I'm lookin for in my stereo without a spending contest. Bang for buck is my motto.

Unless your foot is almost always planted there's little use for all that power. Assuming it was a streetable daily driver you still enjoyed the vehicle when you tipped the throttle, right? Again more is not almost always better or even necessary. Refinement is the key to better. By the way, another game of chance or did you run that ET with a roll cage?

Anyway back to our regularly scheduled programming

Okay, I'm done. Enjoy your amps.