A/V Stand

[Waboman]

I'm pretty sure the Salamander Synergy Triple 30 is the winner in my stand search.

Need to work out a few more details though.

Then it's the tough part. Picking the wood & post finish.

[salmtpa]

Waboman,
I have the Twin 30 in cherry and black with glass doors. You may benefit from some of my lessons learned. Overall, it's a great system, but don't go for the casters. Get either the stilleto or standard feet as the casters on carpeting make it very difficult to get exact positioning where you want it. I wish I had gone with the stilleto feet. If you decide to use a rear panel you'll need the extended panels due to the depth of the Mac amps. I did that but just recently I finally got fed up not having ready access to the rear of the cabinet to get to my cabling. So I ditched the rear panels and finally bit the bullet to dress my cables. Obviously not having the rear panel on helps with air flow too. Once I took off the rear panel I also decided to remove the doors. I think it was just a desire for a change in the look and it's nice to be able to pop them off or on at will. I'm sure I'll put them back on at some point, it's very easy with the type hinge assembly they provide. If you have any questions feel free to ask! Let us know what color scheme you go with. BTW, you're going to surprised at how heavy the Salamander system is! Very dense shelving material.

[Waboman]

Thanks Salmtpa. That helps out a lot!

Since this is going on carpet, I was going to get the casters. I will now get the stilettos instead. I wasn't planning on installing the back panel. Also, I wasn't going to put on the doors either. If I decide to install the doors at a later time, is it pretty easy? Or something I should do from the get go?

Jeff.

[salmtpa]

Hi Jeff,
Putting the doors on after the fact is a bit of an undertaking. The way the system goes together is you work your way from the bottom up, sliding locking devices into the slotted channels in the posts to support the shelves as well as one part of the hinge mechanism for the doors. So if you plan on using doors you need to buy them upfront since the hinges also get inserted into the slots at assembly. It makes it easy after the fact to take the doors off and then put them back on at will since the hinge itself splits into two pieces that lock together as a whole. It's hard to tell in this photo but there is a little tab you pull and the hinge just separates, allowing the door to be removed. You can also see in the pic the mounting points for the shelving. They slide into the slots from above and get locked in place wherever you want the shelf.

But adding doors after the unit is assembled would require you to dissamble the top shelf (the solid, really heavy one!), remove all the equipment, loosen and slide out all the intermediate shelving and supports, then install the hinges and reassemble the rest. I have a dedicated room so I can easily live with no doors. If it's in a main living area you'd probably want the doors for aesthetic reasons.

Sal

[Still-One]

Originally Posted by Waboman

I'm pretty sure the Salamander Synergy Triple 30 is the winner in my stand search.

Need to work out a few more details though.

Then it's the tough part. Picking the wood & post finish.

I would go for something a little more heavy duty than the Salamander for McIntosh gear.

[Waboman]

Originally Posted by salmtpa

Hi Jeff,
Putting the doors on after the fact is a bit of an undertaking. The way the system goes together is you work your way from the bottom up, sliding locking devices into the slotted channels in the posts to support the shelves as well as one part of the hinge mechanism for the doors. So if you plan on using doors you need to buy them upfront since the hinges also get inserted into the slots at assembly. It makes it easy after the fact to take the doors off and then put them back on at will since the hinge itself splits into two pieces that lock together as a whole. It's hard to tell in this photo but there is a little tab you pull and the hinge just separates, allowing the door to be removed. You can also see in the pic the mounting points for the shelving. They slide into the slots from above and get locked in place wherever you want the shelf.

But adding doors after the unit is assembled would require you to dissamble the top shelf (the solid, really heavy one!), remove all the equipment, loosen and slide out all the intermediate shelving and supports, then install the hinges and reassemble the rest. I have a dedicated room so I can easily live with no doors. If it's in a main living area you'd probably want the doors for aesthetic reasons.

Sal

Hi Sal.

Thanks for the tips on door installation. I will install the doors just for the sake of being able to use them if I want. However, this wont be in a main room, and I will end up taking the doors off. But it will be nice to know, I can easily put them on if the need arises.

Jeff.

[Waboman]

Originally Posted by Stillone

I would go for something a little more heavy duty than the Salamander for McIntosh gear.

In my stand search, I've heard really good things about the Salamanders. In fact, their sturdiness is one of the constants that I keep reading about.

[Still-One]

Originally Posted by Waboman

In my stand search, I've heard really good things about the Salamanders. In fact, their sturdiness is one of the constants that I keep reading about.

I still prefer to go with heavier duty racks like these here:

http://audioaficionado.org/mcintosh-....html#post7408

http://audioaficionado.org/home-thea...html#post12217

[Waboman]

The Adona and Ron's Rack are hard core. Very cool. For my situation though, I need to fit at least 6 pieces of gear and put my center channel speaker on top of the rack. In my quest, the Salamander Triple 30 seems to fit that need the best.

[gregswaim]

I use Quadraspire with great results. Here's a couple of links: AudioConcepts Products- Cables, Furniture and Accessories
Quadraspire - raising the performance...