The Vintage Altec Codex

[junker]

Also, I need to put this in the real Altec speaker thread but IMO the countersink tool is now one of 2 ways to do the back...

There are also the GRK low-profile cabinet screws they are rad and come with a T-13 bit.

[junker]

Regarding insulation... yah I feel just do one of each parallel wall. And you don't even need to be religious about going edge to edge. You can also put a square above the horn on the ceiling if you want.

[junker]

If you need any of the parts list from McMaster Carr for the horn mounting or LF driver mounting let me know.

[Sancho22]

Thanks - the screw is really cool. I ordered some plain ones from Amazon as I was getting from them the cleaning products anyway.
IF I would insulate all the paralell amd back wall would teh cabinet be too "dead"?

[junker]

yah maybe. can also absorb too much bass. and can also change the effect box volume tuning (porting). You're in the land of testing. Let us know. The Altec build guides give pretty good recommendations on this.

[Sancho22]

I will take you up on the driver mounting hardware offer - thanks!

[Sancho22]

Tried to PM you but could not. Hm not sure I am having difficulty using this site...

[fjn04]

For insulation, I only did one side (parallel) wall, as junker suggests. I didn't put a square on the ceiling above the horn. I don't get shout of any kind. I have a question about the Duelund 16Awg termination. Parts Connexion does termination. It takes 1 hour for them to terminate a pair of cables with bananas or spades. I just emailed him to get the cost, so I will know that soon. So I will cut to the chase. For my Jagusch crossover, I am using the Belden bare wire on both ends. The connection to the drivers seems pretty good, with the rather large tightening screw. But on the Jagusch, there is a tighter strip with small spacing, and a smallish screw which really doesn't seem to coral ALL the wire. Should I go small spades there, or am I OVER thinking AGAIN?

[junker]

Originally Posted by Sancho22

I will take you up on the driver mounting hardware offer - thanks!

[junker]

I would consider these two items more optional: 1) piece of brass to drill out to make new horn hanger; and 2) wing nuts to attach the horn body to the compression driver: