#11
|
|||
|
|||
And hear I thought the 501's would be a better match than a single MC205 @200wt pet channel. Am I giving my B&W's more power than they can handle? Guess I won't be upgrading to the 1.k's Will the Sasha's or XR200 be a better choice or perhaps B&W 800D?
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I am afraid to suggest anything to you. The XR200 are rated at 600w, don't know what the Sasha's can take, not about to find out. Maybe a pair of XRT1K's at 1200w, yeah, that should have you covered.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Ya but look at the price. Man should I buy amp. What can I really change? The only other coincidence is I have been using the WW equinox 6 i.c. , I just added the Eclipse 5.2 for comparison. Odd coincidence it happenend a week after those were connected. (im not stating those are the reason) They did brighten things up a bit.
So, anything I can buy to test if it really is the tweeter besides my ear? test cd? There is no static of hiss when there not playing anything while the amps are on. but once I play a cd it's easy to hear the static and hiss. I still have 2 years remaining on my warranty, I assume they will cover the 1st incident. how can they prove abuse? which i dont believe Im guilty of. Odd it didnt blow the center speaker which is where 80% were the sound originates in a movie.PHC1 how far have you pushed your Sasha's? Just 2 ch or movies as well? |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
You don't need a test CD, if you hear static or hiss like you say while playing a CD, you have a problem. I'd try to eliminate and troubleshoot one component at a time, maybe it is something else in your system and not actually blown speakers. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
I just threw in the center options as a bug in your ear. Just seems that during the explosion it would have radiated from the center to the fronts since the center reproduces most sound during a movie. My center channel is working perfectly. I could connect my i.c. from my MC501's to my MC205 and drive all channels that way. That would eliminate the MC501 as the problem. My only other option is to remove the tweeter from my HTM2D and place it atop one of my 802d's but that alot of work, just to troubleshoot. would be easier and cheaper to call a salesman to my home for a close inspections. besides, they are still under warranty.
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
crytklmass.......Make the telephone call.
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Strange thing happened today Dan.. I disconnected the WW eclipse 5.2 I.C and noticed one one end of the cable (XLR) the shielding was pulled out exposing the cable so I placed my Transparent Ultra MM2 I.C.'s on. switched my amps to 4ohms and so far they sound good. Not sure I understand what happened. Maybe the I.C.'s are bad, they worked great the first week. I did reach behind my stand to straighten up my wires, maybe I pulled something loose (kinda like cable t.v., sometimes you picture is fuzzy but when you move the line the picture comes in perfect). Is there some kind of home test I can try vs. a service call? I never blew a tweeter before. I know what a blown woofer sounds like. There is NO static, I played Pink Floyd "Welcome to the machine" It sounded perfect. The only change was my I.C. and switching to 4 ohms. Weird.. I guess I'll reconnect the WW eclipse and listen to the difference, maybe the XLR termination is bad...hmmmmmmm strange indeed.
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
crytklmass.......That sure would be a blessing if that's all it actually turned out to be. Still, some good infornation about power verses peak power has been offered here, and the maximum power rating of your speakers should be considered every time you crank it up, particularly on movie sound tracks where there is such a huge decible difference between dialog and explosion sound effects.
__________________
Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
That would be a good ending to a problem if all it is is a bad cable.
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Let's hope that's it for this problem.
__________________
Sources: Vinyl: Clearaudio Innovation Wood turntable with 9" Universal tonearm, Da Vinci V2 cartridge, Stillpoints SS & Stillpoints clamp, McIntosh MVP 901, Apple Mac mini via Benchmark DAC 1, Aurender N100C via Schiit Yggdrasil Control: McIntosh C1100, Mcintosh MX151 Power: Mcintosh MC2301s (front), McIntosh MC501 (center), Mcintosh MC402 (rear) Speakers: Sonus Faber Amati Futura (front and back), SF Vox center Power/connections: PS Audio Power Port receptacles, RGPC 400 pro (2) WireWorld interconnects and speaker cable |
|
|
Audio Aficionado Sponsors | |