SVS SB16 compared to JL Audio F113v2

[Masterlu]

Originally Posted by bodiezaffa

And on and on about how much shipping costs would be to Toronto..... for 2. Lol.

Road trip!

[djwhog]

I have owned all subs mentioned and two other brands. I really feel the F212 is an amazing sub, it is tight and I think a tad bit quicker than the 113s yet with more power more sq foot of driver and more air movement. I feel it does it all very good. It overs enough cross over and filters steps gain etc to get it done for me in my rig.


If I play scads various genres of music and a few tweaks I did program into my MX150 for movies most always requires no tweaking. Some sound tracks in movies and effects like it Batman with Keith Ledger get too intense. But if one had an even larger room the Gotham would be step up two or more of course.

Also JL does make a very nice audiophile grade active crossover if you need even more control.


I guess I am a JL convert having owned others. There are a few I know of that may be better but you are getting into 5 figures each for a sub

[Pampero]

Originally Posted by djwhog

I have owned all subs mentioned and two other brands. I really feel the F212 is an amazing sub, it is tight and I think a tad bit quicker than the 113s yet with more power more sq foot of driver and more air movement. I feel it does it all very good. It overs enough cross over and filters steps gain etc to get it done for me in my rig.


If I play scads various genres of music and a few tweaks I did program into my MX150 for movies most always requires no tweaking. Some sound tracks in movies and effects like it Batman with Keith Ledger get too intense. But if one had an even larger room the Gotham would be step up two or more of course.

Also JL does make a very nice audiophile grade active crossover if you need even more control.


I guess I am a JL convert having owned others. There are a few I know of that may be better but you are getting into 5 figures each for a sub

The F113 sounds very composed to my ears. As I've been considering two subs for the final configuration, this exercise was primarily about determining which two subs from these particular manufacturers would be the right choice for me. Two F212s exceeded my desires and frankly, budget but would have been a strong contender if I was looking for a single sub.

Having said that, adding just a single F113 has made a big enough difference in the room to make me less anxious to go out and buy another, but that does seem inevitable.

In my pantheon I'd also considered the Rhythm (which became unavailable a few months ago after Harman closed it out) and Funk Audio, but the F113 was a simple solution and came with excellent credentials which it backs up with fine performance at a price I can live with.

[robert_kc]

I appreciate the opportunity to learn about subs by reading these posts. (I'm considering adding a second sub to my basement system.)

FWIW, following is how I handle sub-woofer crossover. I use Oppo universal players that provide "bass management" - i.e., a built-in crossover, and an RCA line-level connection for a powered subwoofer. With Oppo's bass management, the low frequencies are off-loaded from the main amp and speakers. The last 4 generations of Oppo players have bass management (the newer models have adjustments for the crossover): UDP-205, BDP-105, BDP-95, and DV-980H. They all play SACD, CD, and DVD. The newer models play downloaded hi-res FLAC files, Blu-ray (audio and video), and the newest model plays UHD discs.

I've chosen the high-end Oppo products because they are "universal players", and have a high-quality DAC built-in. I have all of the Oppo units listed above installed in different stereo hi-fi systems, mostly employing vintage amps. (No AVRs.) The Oppo units listed above all have variable output (i.e., volume control on remote) enabling them to be connected directly to a tube power amp (i.e., no pre-amp) – assuming good system synergy. And, for a vintage integrated amp, they add the convenience of remote volume control.

[Pampero]

I haven't been too active on this forum lately, but here's an update on my current configuration.

I have added a second F113 and a CR1. The crossover especially has made the whole shebang much easier to dial in and much better all around, just as I knew it would. I now cross over much higher (110 Hz). I arrived at that setting by trial and error. It provides a less "fat" sound but is very tight and tuneful. On the way, I tried crossover points of 40Hz, 80Hz and 100Hz before settling on 110Hz.

My settings use the 24dB/octave slopes of the JL CR1. I set levels and phase using Barry Ober's "find the null" technique. That was quite easy and intuitive to do. In my system the settings I have arrived at result in very tight sound with little or no bass hangover (slop). I have also treated the room with four bass traps and gobos at the first reflection points which aided greatly in imaging and focus as well as low end accuracy but that's another story.

I found that the higher the crossover point yield subjectively less bass but better tonality and
overall integration. I now have very natural bass that is satisfying to my ears and reflects a direct relationship to the amount of low frequency energy in the program material.

Folks, you can't really integrate a sub properly with out a good crossover. For most of us, room treatment is also going to be required if we want to make the most of our limited/compromised living spaces.
In audio, there don't seem to be many ways around the rules of physics. A nice aspect/side effect of my rig as it is set up now is that I can employ playback levels limited only by the main amplifier's output power. since my room itself is a better environment all around.

There are no shortcuts. You need the crossover. You will probably need some consideration of your room's acoustics and at least a modicum of treatment in our smaller domestic spaces.

I'm happy to discuss the specifics of my tune but the settings are unique to my room and equipment so once you've assembled the tool kit, you'll need to settle on a sensible methodology for adjusting all the various parameters. As I said previously, there really are no shortcuts.

[Ricjor1]

Everyone is different as to how they value a particular component. I had the CR1 with dual JL Audio F110s. I prefer my single F112 without the CR-1. I'll take another F112 over a CR-1 everyday of the week.

[McIntosh-maTRiX]

I'm sorry sirs if I intrude but I have a curiosity:
Anyone has ever compared, at least on paper ehehehe , these two beautiful subwoofers, with what IMHO is a valid and musical sub, that is, the Paradigm Reference Signature SUB25 (now discontinued in America , but not yet in Italy ) ...
What do you think of this sub?
I think it would tear them up both, ehehehe ...

A pic of the monster:

[Ricjor1]

I submit no sub will "tear up" a JL Audio sub; however you may prefer another sub to a JL Audio sub. I've had several subs over the years and like most things it's about individual preferences.

[McIntosh-maTRiX]

I absolutely agree with what you say, but maybe I expressed myself badly in the previous post:

"tear up" in the musical and audiophile sense, not powerful and annoying
(like a Pro subwoofer).

I apologize for the misleading term.
You should hear it...

[Ricjor1]

Originally Posted by McIntosh-maTRiX

I absolutely agree with what you say, but maybe I expressed myself badly in the previous post:

"tear up" in the musical and audiophile sense, not powerful and annoying
(like a Pro subwoofer).

I apologize for the misleading term.
You should hear it...

I know what you meant and I responded. Again, it's my opinion no subwoofer will destroy JL Audio or any top end sub musically in an audiophile sense. It doesn't mean you may not prefer something over JL Audio.