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Pass Labs 20 Years and Counting

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  #11  
Old 11-23-2013, 01:35 AM
MyPal MyPal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turntable View Post
Steve, Are the fuses labelled so once you find the best orientation, you just use the same for the rest of the fuses?
Turntable...Correct. There is an arrow on the logo of the ceramic tube plus one cap specifies voltage & the other cap specifies amps as I recall.

So easy to get the orientation the same. Amps in/voltage out for orientation with McIntosh gear.

Arrow the FUSE-->>CAP for McIntosh gear. Or Amps inwards, volts outwards according to the fuse labels.

Made me revisit this funny old thread which also makes mention of the fuses.

http://www.audioaficionado.org/isola...d-quantum.html

Last edited by MyPal; 11-23-2013 at 01:54 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:20 PM
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Just a quick update...

I went back and forth a couple times while I have been playing with the Loki DSD DAC and speaker wires. I also just took the MacMini to a different outlet.

During lunch I went home to pick-up a package and flipped the fuse to where the arrow is pointing out, and my impression was that it actually sounded a lot less bright and thin...more texture and natural sounding.

I'll be able to do a lot more listening with more music so I'll be able to get a better feel for any possible changes.

This has me wondering if the filaments are actually always installed in the same direction during production? Maybe it just has to be tested independently for each fuse? Anyway, it's point out for right now... I had a 15A Gold/Silver version only pointing in on the McIntosh MC452 becuase it was just too heavy to move around so maybe I had it in backwards on that the entire time...assuming it actually makes a difference.

Last edited by junker; 11-28-2013 at 02:33 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2013, 02:32 PM
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There is also a lot of "healthy debate" going on regarding these fuses over here:

http://www.audioaficionado.org/mcint...upgrade-3.html
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2013, 04:12 PM
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So with all the discussion about conductivity etc. Does anyone know what the fuse holder uses to make contact to the fuse end caps?
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2 Channel Preamp: McIntosh C2300
AV Preamp/Processor: McIntosh MX150
Amps: McIntosh MC302 and MC303
Projector: Sony VPL-HW55ES
Speakers: Golden Ear Triton 2s, SuperSat 50 and SuperSat 3s
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2013, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dom_P View Post
So with all the discussion about conductivity etc. Does anyone know what the fuse holder uses to make contact to the fuse end caps?
Probably just nickel plated over brass/copper...

Bypassing the entire fuse holder would be the best but...
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2013, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junker View Post
Probably just nickel plated over brass/copper... Bypassing the entire fuse holder would be the best but...
So that being the case wouldn't the fuse holder itself be a bigger limiting factor to the current flow?

I'm not saying the fuses don't make a difference, as many folks indicate they do, but I wonder if conductivity is the reason.
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2 Channel Preamp: McIntosh C2300
AV Preamp/Processor: McIntosh MX150
Amps: McIntosh MC302 and MC303
Projector: Sony VPL-HW55ES
Speakers: Golden Ear Triton 2s, SuperSat 50 and SuperSat 3s
Digital Sources: Lumin A1, Oppo BDP-105
Speaker Cables: WW Oasis 6 (F/C), WW Stream (Surround)
interconnects: WW Silver Eclipse 6 XLR, Silver Starlight 6 USB, WW Ultraviolet HDMI
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  #17  
Old 11-28-2013, 08:12 PM
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FWIW... I have tried so many tweaks; some work, some don't. I like my upgraded fuses.
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  #18  
Old 02-07-2014, 08:52 PM
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I've used the Hi-fi tuning fuses several years ago on my ex Mcintosh gears and don't really feel any difference.
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