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  #11  
Old 02-28-2024, 11:29 PM
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Charles - Fotoman has a MK V C22 -- that's a current offering - not a legacy C22.

Bob
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Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf.
Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia V (on order in Ferrari Argento Silver/Parchment grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit).
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Power Distribution:Ansuz Mainz D3 Distributor & Ansuz Mainz C2 1M Power Cable
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  #12  
Old 02-29-2024, 01:34 PM
Charles Charles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage_tube View Post
Charles - Fotoman has a MK V C22 -- that's a current offering - not a legacy C22.

Bob
Then it's a more difficult choice. With the Mac gear you get significantly more watts, a more accurate more solid state like, more detailed sound but still a very warm and beautiful sound. In addition, CJ gear is all single ended which rules it out for me. The linchpin of my system is the 28K 25' balanced Wel Signature IC between my D1100 and 3500's. I also greatly prefer an all balanced system over single ended. It has no protection circuits which are very important to me, especially the Sentry Monitor. I love the classic Mac tube sound and so for me I would prefer it over the CJ. I looked at CJ years ago greatly admiring them but for all these reasons I couldn't possibly entertain a purchase. But I think Footman prefers a more tubey sound and single ended is no problem for him. CJ is also significantly more expensive than the Mac. I don't think the build quality is better than the Mac. I think Mac is a significantly better value.

Best

Charles
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Charles Updated System: Wilson McIntosh Audioquest

Amps: McIntosh MC3500MKII (2); McIntosh MC1.25KW (2); MC2.1KW An (1)
Preamp: C-12000 An
Sources: MCD12000 An; MVP881; MVP851; MR87; Marantz 510LV; ASUS laptop
Speakers: Wilson Audio Specialties Chronosonic XVX
Sub-woofer: Wilson Audio Specialties Thor’s Hammer (1); Wilson ActivXO Stereo Electronic Crossover
Cables main system: Audioquest WEL Signature speaker cables; balanced IC (preamp to main amps); WEL Signature digital coaxial cable for MVP 881/MCD12000; Audioquest Diamond optical (1) for tuner, (1) for MVP 851 DVD player, and (1) for LD player for total of (3); Audioquest Diamond USB cable; Dragon power cords (5 HC cords and 3 source cords for total of 8); Thunder HC power cord for MR87 tuner
Cables subwoofer system: Audioquest Redwood speaker cable (1); Wolf balanced subwoofer IC; Wind balanced IC from preamp to ActivXO; Hurricane HC (3); Hurricane Source (1); Dragon HC (1) power cords
Power conditioners: Audioquest Niagara 7000 (1) and Niagara 5000 (3); (4) dedicated 20-amp lines.
Isolation: Wilson Pedestals; Bassocontinuo McIntosh Ultra Feet; X-material plinth
Cabinet: Double Custom Woodwork & Design (CWD)
Acoustic Treatments: Room and Echo Tunes
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  #13  
Old 02-29-2024, 03:19 PM
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I love the musical performance of my C22 & MC275 system. It's one incredible combination and value in my mind. I am so glad I gave the MC275 a shot.

Can you imagine the 75th Anniversary MC275 arriving just in time for Christmas? Now that would be sweet!
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Tube System: PS Audio Dectet - McIntosh MR88 - Innous ZenMini - Chord Qutest - WireWorld Eclipse 8 Cables - McIntosh C22V & MC275 - Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor - Stillpoints & IsoAcoustics Gaia III
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  #14  
Old 02-29-2024, 03:20 PM
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I have no info. Just sending out a wish.
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Solid State System: PS Audio Dectet - Innous Zen MK3 - Schiit Audio Yggdrasil - WireWorld Eclipse 8 Cables - McIntosh C48 & MC452 - Sonus Faber Guarneri Tradition - JL Audio F110v1 (2) - Stillpoints

Tube System: PS Audio Dectet - McIntosh MR88 - Innous ZenMini - Chord Qutest - WireWorld Eclipse 8 Cables - McIntosh C22V & MC275 - Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor - Stillpoints & IsoAcoustics Gaia III
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  #15  
Old 02-29-2024, 11:40 PM
John Jordan John Jordan is offline
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Fotoman-

The MC 275 is a really great amp. If asking to be super critical, perhaps at very high volumes it can get a bit "confused" but for normal listening (and a decent bit higher) , it's quite capable.

On another note, working with an electrician for dedicated audio circuits is most likely the best thing you can do power wise. Pay particular attention to grounding and consider having a separate circuit for the amp. While everything is opened up, running another circuit is not a big deal. From my perspective, good power from the beginning is more effective with less cost than adding dingleberries later.
As always, mileage does vary.

John
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  #16  
Old 03-01-2024, 12:27 PM
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Formerly YB-2 Formerly YB-2 is offline
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Have had the CJ 62SE, MC275 MKIV & MKVI. However, the 62SE was with a non-CJ pre (BAT) and the MC275s were with a a C2200 ,& C22 MKV.
The answer is not that simple as the 62SE can be set for pentode or triode and various tubes (EL34, KT88, etc.), providing different performance with each.
My C22/MC275 MKVI was excellent. But, so was my BAT/62SE combo.
If I were looking for an 'end-game' tube system I would find a pair of reissue MC75 monoblock amps to go with a C22 MKV.
In the meantime, I would follow Bob"s suggestion on tubes and Stephen's on a grounding system, especially if listening to digital sources. I found the Shunyata power cable to make an amazing difference with my streamer/DAC.
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Last edited by Formerly YB-2; 03-01-2024 at 12:32 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2024, 12:28 PM
Fotoman Fotoman is offline
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Thanks to all who've taken the time to contribute to this thread. My primary goal is to optimize what I now have. The electrical work is an important part of that as well as paying more attention to the room. I'm on the fence about whether or not to keep the LRS+. When and if the opportunity arises to audition an MC275VI in my home, I will likely do so, but for now the cj Classic 62SE is getting along quite nicely with the MAC C22. And as I've said, I very much like the functionality of the C22 so I'll not be looking. for a cj preamp.

After trying more than a few "tweaks" over the years, I've decided I've had enough because I've finally learned how deep that particular rabbit hole can be.

When I was a young fella, simply turning my stereo system on and playing tunes gave me enormous pleasure. Now thank goodness, I'm closer to that happy place than I have been for decades. Which shows me that with some things at least, it's never too late.

And yeah, I agree with John about adding"dingleberries."

Thanks again folks,
Paul
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Last edited by Fotoman; 03-01-2024 at 12:58 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2024, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fotoman View Post
Thanks to all who've taken the time to contribute to this thread. My primary goal is to optimize what I now have. The electrical work is an important part of that as well as paying more attention to the room. <snip>
After trying more than a few "tweaks" over the years, I've decided I've had enough because I've finally learned how deep that particular rabbit hole can be. <snip>

And yeah, I agree with John about adding"dingleberries."

Thanks again folks,
Paul
and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2 View Post
In the meantime, I would follow Bob"s suggestion on tubes and Stephen's on a grounding system, especially if listening to digital sources. I found the Shunyata power cable to make an amazing difference with my streamer/DAC.
I think your decision is sound, and you'll have enjoyable and involving musical experiences with your amplification set-up.

Couple of points for the gang's consideration in the interests of accuracy:

1) All installing dedicated AC lines ensure is that the full current from the AC mains is available for a specific component. However, installing dedicated AC lines does not mitigate or prevent noise from being on the AC mains, unless they are run inside metal conduit inside the home they are still going to pick up EMI and RF (e.g. your local baseball game on AC radio). This is the physics of the matter.

Morever, it's important to remember that MOST of the electrical noise in our systems comes from the full-wave bridge rectifiers in the power supplies of the components themselves. Installing 'dedicated lines" does nothing to prevent the generation and propogation of this noise. And, because this is AC, alternating current, the current and the noise, goes INTO the component's power supply, and BACK OUT of the component's power supply at 60X/sec in the USA. This noise propogates back "upstream" and adds noise to the low-signal source components*.

As such, I'm going to most respectfully disagree that these noise-reduction components are "dingleberries". In my experience, and in the experience of other members here, they are key to having the most accurate, natural, and engaging musical experience with stereo amplification equipment. Those folks here that have installed an Altaira system, as an example, speak volumes about their benefit and can attest to the improvement they provide in the musical listening experience.

In the interests of the science of all this and accuracy, I'll add, once again, that the signficant benefits provided by a quality power distributor, ground-plane noise reduction hubs, (e.g. Altaira hub or Gemini power distributor) and noise-reducing power cords are not to be overlooked. In my direct experience and I'm confident for many others here as well, they're fundamentally more important than switching out one brand of amplifer for another.

Cheers.

*–Ref here: https://rb.gy/m11kot
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Last edited by Puma Cat; 03-01-2024 at 04:10 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2024, 05:01 PM
Charles Charles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fotoman View Post
Thanks to all who've taken the time to contribute to this thread. My primary goal is to optimize what I now have. The electrical work is an important part of that as well as paying more attention to the room. I'm on the fence about whether or not to keep the LRS+. When and if the opportunity arises to audition an MC275VI in my home, I will likely do so, but for now the cj Classic 62SE is getting along quite nicely with the MAC C22. And as I've said, I very much like the functionality of the C22 so I'll not be looking. for a cj preamp.

After trying more than a few "tweaks" over the years, I've decided I've had enough because I've finally learned how deep that particular rabbit hole can be.

When I was a young fella, simply turning my stereo system on and playing tunes gave me enormous pleasure. Now thank goodness, I'm closer to that happy place than I have been for decades. Which shows me that with some things at least, it's never too late.

And yeah, I agree with John about adding"dingleberries."

Thanks again folks,
Paul
Footman, I think you have decided to listen to all the suggestions and improve at this point, your power and room. I think the MC275VI is the perfect amp for you down the road. You can choose a much better power cord and the binding posts are much superior to the MC75 mono. In addition there are the protection circuits and a general upgrade in parts.

I think that down the road a Niagara 5000 at $5,900 will be very beneficial. The price of a Niagara 7000 has increased to 11K. This is too much. I'm glad I bought one when they were 7K. You receive about 90% of the 7000 with the 5000. If you are "into" power conditioning, grounding, etc. Shunyata might be the better choice over Audioquest.

As an aside to all. ARC has just instituted a massive price increase. Now I see AQ has increased the Niagara 7000 to a level I would not be willing to pay. I don't see how McIntosh can hold their prices much longer. I am so thankful I am in the que for my gear. If you are serious about an upgrade, I wouldn't procrastinate. The price hikes are severe. :
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Charles Updated System: Wilson McIntosh Audioquest

Amps: McIntosh MC3500MKII (2); McIntosh MC1.25KW (2); MC2.1KW An (1)
Preamp: C-12000 An
Sources: MCD12000 An; MVP881; MVP851; MR87; Marantz 510LV; ASUS laptop
Speakers: Wilson Audio Specialties Chronosonic XVX
Sub-woofer: Wilson Audio Specialties Thor’s Hammer (1); Wilson ActivXO Stereo Electronic Crossover
Cables main system: Audioquest WEL Signature speaker cables; balanced IC (preamp to main amps); WEL Signature digital coaxial cable for MVP 881/MCD12000; Audioquest Diamond optical (1) for tuner, (1) for MVP 851 DVD player, and (1) for LD player for total of (3); Audioquest Diamond USB cable; Dragon power cords (5 HC cords and 3 source cords for total of 8); Thunder HC power cord for MR87 tuner
Cables subwoofer system: Audioquest Redwood speaker cable (1); Wolf balanced subwoofer IC; Wind balanced IC from preamp to ActivXO; Hurricane HC (3); Hurricane Source (1); Dragon HC (1) power cords
Power conditioners: Audioquest Niagara 7000 (1) and Niagara 5000 (3); (4) dedicated 20-amp lines.
Isolation: Wilson Pedestals; Bassocontinuo McIntosh Ultra Feet; X-material plinth
Cabinet: Double Custom Woodwork & Design (CWD)
Acoustic Treatments: Room and Echo Tunes

Last edited by Charles; 03-01-2024 at 05:15 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2024, 06:31 PM
Fotoman Fotoman is offline
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With regard to "dingleberries" my only experience with Shunyata was a $600 pair of "Venom Defenders" which proved to be nothing more than very overpriced surge protectors.

I have made my own PC's using Supra cable into a Supra LoRad power distributor which did help quiet my now departed old tube separates. I continue to use the Supra cords and power strip but will be experimenting with other cords and outlets once the electricians are finished.

Stephan, thank you for the link to Mr. Gabriel's comments which I read with interest. And Charles, thanks for the 411 on price increases.


Best,
Paul
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Conrad Johnson Classic 62SE, McIntosh C-22 Mk V, Accuphase E-280, Sonus Faber Guarneri Homage, Magnepan LRS+, Rega P6, Hana SL, Gold Note DS-10 with PSU. A pair of REL T5X in and out of the system depending on my mood.
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